blueheart

I have had a very similar issue on my 59 plate VRS TDI. It feels like a wheel balance prob but I've had them balance numerous times and have the same problem now with my winter wheels and tyres fitted. Mine feels like the front end is bouncing across the road at about 80 mph on standard wheels and tyres and around 85 on my winter set. I've replaced both front driveshafts as I thought it might be CV joints but no joy. Tracking is all good. I'm beginning to wonder if it could be aerodynamic as in something flapping around, maybe the engine bay undershield. Any thoughts guys?

My CR vRS does it too, the only way I've found to stop it is to bang the left side of the glovebox area, deffo not a permanent fix though

I struggled initially with this too but found a really easy way to do it and that is to bend the rod to give a better angle and then bend it back once it's located. It took about 30 secs to do it that way. It's worth it just to avoid the puzzle!

Blimey, some great bike histories on here. here's mine for fun: Started in 1975 with a Yamaha DT 125 '76/77 moved up to a new Yamaha XS 500 twin '79 bought my wonderful CBX 1000 6 cylinder dream amchine which I wish I'd kept, did 1000's of miles on that backwards and forwards to Germany Kids and stuff got in the way until '93 when I bought a Kawasaki Z1300 fueil injection 6. Too heavy, slow and cumbersome compared with my CBX. Then bought a VFR 750 FJ in about '95. Also had an MZ 125 and sold the Z1300 about then too. In '98 I bought a ZZR1100 D6 which was lovely but when the Hayabusa emerged in '99 I had to have one. Still got the 'busa now and I love it to death, especially with remap and Akrapovic plus a few other mods. Now I'm a bit older it does the trick, even if my knees don't! I've done 220 mph indicated on the Elvington runway and it was still pulling hard .............................. love it but winter brings out my Octavia vRS LOL

And on my 54 plate Fab vRS!

Just got a second hand set of four steel 16" wheels ET 50 fitted with 205/55 Conti TS 850's for £300. 2 had 7.5mm and 2 had 8mm of tread left, had only been used for 1 winter so I'm dead chuffed. Fitted them just before Christmas and I think I've only seen a couple of early morning temps below 7 deg C, bloody typical. Had one long run from Hampshire to Cheltenham and Bristol return, mostly in very heavy rain. They're better than my Eagle F1 Assy 2's in standing water but aren't as straight line stable; I could feel the sidewall flex even running pressures 0.3 bar higher than std. Fuel consumption reached about 48 mpg on the way back though I did keep my cruise below 80. Very impressed so far I have to say.

Love it, only quibble is: you should never use a capital "S" when using that filthy word! Now go wash your hands and mouth out!

I drive my FL CR 170 VrS DSG quite a lot in manual mode and use both the lever and paddles, probably using the lever more than the paddles. I find I can keep the engine in the main torque band better than the DSG box does. I dislike the Sport mode for normal driving and find it holds on to the revs too much for normal road use, even to the point of power drop off. The only time I really disliked my DSG box was on the snow and ice. I didn't feel as in control as I would have with a manual box.

That's interesting and very close to my current position Matt. I've got a 59 plate blue vrs with the same options as you but a lower mileage at just over 27k; I bought it 2nd hand with very low mileage! Dealer's just offered this against mine: New blue vRS diesel hatch manual. 3 years free servicing and 0% finance PCP £190/month (as worst case!) £2000 cash back 0 deposit, just my car as px Remainder of my settlement figure cleared on my behalf (about £2k) We now need to put some real figures against all of that to see where the catch is and what the GFV etc is. All sounds tempting and very interesting so I'm test driving a petrol estate tomorrow!

Mine made 208 bhp @ 3942 rpm and 461 Nm (340 lbs ft) @ 2693 rpm, remapped by Will at P-Torque. Mines a DSG though so can't answer the clutch question.

I thought miles to empty was calculated by what remaining in the tank, divided by the running average fuel consumption readout?

I had an ECU replaced under warranty recently on my 59 plate CR vRS DSG and I think it received a software update at the same time. The reason I say this is that the Maxidot readout is almost spot on now where it was reading about 5 to 7 mpg higher than reality prior to this. My last tankfull gave a real figure of 42.6 and the maxidot figure was 42.3. I can better this on a long run but my normal journey is 7 miles to work and 7 miles home where I'm lucky to get to 40 mpg. When it's warm and on a long run, it achieves about 45 mpg which I reckon is pretty good.

My 08 PD vRS manual made 190 hp (166.7 at the wheels) and 286 lbs ft standard After a P-Torque remap it made 211.5 hp (187.7 at the wheels) and 332.9 lbs ft. This was a fantastic and driveable remap and I absolutely loved it, so torquey and flexible. My 09 CR vRS DSG made 180 hp (147.1 at the wheels) and 279.2 lbs ft standard After a P-Torque remap it made 208.1 hp (180.5 at the wheels) and 340.3 lbs ft. I have to say that I definately preferred the feel and thrust of the PD over the smoother and revvier nature of the CR. As for fuel consumption I reckon the remapped PD manual averaged about 45 mpg and the CR about 42, these were real figures and not readings.

All sounds normal to me!

Your engine will still be tight anyway so 42 mpg isn't bad. The readouts generally aren't that accurate unless it's been calibrated. I too have a CR vRS DSG and my son in law has an estate with the same engine gearbox combination, consumption read out is often 8 to 10 mpg better in his estate but when we measure actual fuel used, they are very close. Last year I went up to Scotland and back in my remapped manual PD vRS with roofbox fitted and averaged pretty much the same as you, 42 mpg.