zombiefly

ok... thanks for the offer. this has already become too complicated and expensive. It was supposed to be a quick mod i would do myself. Times have changed! Rang Skoda and a few local garages. nobody will do it. A couple of auto electrics places will, but they are too far away and it will cost ~£150 or more to even fit it. that's over 300 with the spend on the camera, so not bothering So i'm selling the camera and will use my mirror for reversing

ok sasha, that thought had already crossed my mind (Selling it) is there anyone here in the yorkshire area that could assist me fitting it? worth asking, i'd rather go by recommendation than randomly selecting

thanks for the info. I think this task is beyond me. I should have picked up one of the cheaper cams. I wonder what are the chances of Skoda fitting it for me? is it worth asking?

hello... been reading up on this for a while and purchased this item: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283687965666 this is for my octavia vrs 2019 estate, which i believe the camera has now been calibrated for (by the seller) so the next steps are to get the thing wired. I think there's enough info in this thread to get going. I have odbeleven the wiring kit trim tool Is there anything else I need? what about inserting the pin in the back of the head unit? I'll rescan this thread again and check if i've missed anything. I'm in no rush as I have nowhere to install it that's under cover so will need to wait for the weather to improve. any help greatly appreciated

i've seen some good reports on those. now that i have my original sub back in the mix [albeit with no remote on, which i'm working on] the sound quality is superb. I'm a piggyback fuse and length of wire away from bass nirvana

haha. i'm back to reawaken this topic i decided yesterday to have a look into this again as i had a spare few hours and the weather was nice. it was then that i discovered that the remote wire that was fitted by these idiots was connected to the brake pedal circuit. i hadn't noticed this previously as i always had my foot on the pedal while testing [it's automatic DSG] as to why i hadn't noticed this before? i have no idea. the focal amp i have was set so low i couldn't detect a difference in sound. So i've been driving around with stock stereo for 6 months hahaha. what a ****. so now.. i need to move the remote wire which they apparently attached to the back of the stereo unit in the glove box. I'll be digging into that later to see what i can find. Hopefully someone on here has posted the wiring diagram already [i'm about to search]

AND WE HAVE A FIX! i took it all to bits, rewired it all and plugged in the focal. drove around... 5 minutes the problem is back. that leaves one thing. the stupid low level converter. took this out and used the low level in on the focal. drove around for 20 mins, no problem at all further testing tomorrow. but it looks like i've just spent £200 to debug the problem. now i will get a decent quality converter and try my old sub again, if that checks out then looks like i have a focal ibus 20 for sale :| thanks for all the input here, it's helped me get to the bottom of this

yeah. me too. all i know is that what i've just unwired from my car [the small low level conversion box and the sub] was wired in the strangest of ways. It made no sense. I thought the instructions for the box were simple, tap into the speaker wires and 12v+ from the back of the HU and out of it comes low level RCA out + remote for amp. Instead, there was some weird BI-wiring going on with the sub/converter box. I'm pretty convinced that this was wrong. maybe this was causing the problem all along? as a result i'm reluctant to take it back there. The new focal unit is "plug and play" so i'm going to do it myself. The 2 things i need to know are: 1. Am i right in thinking that the ISO connectors for the Head unit are behind the cd/sd card box in the glove box? How do i access that? i'm struggling to find a guide as so far everything i've read/watched are for older model HU removal from the centre of the dash, which i've done in previous models but not in the mkIII octy. i'm struggling to find any instructions about this unit in the glove box. 2. Trim removal [sills] I need to run this cable to the boot from the HU without breaking anything If anyone can help me with the above i'd be very grateful

scrapped this whole thing now. conclusion: i have no idea what's going on. for some reason this car doesn't like the sub being plugged in, it worked perfectly for years and was disconnected on the day of exchange. Maybe it's just drawing too much power. Nobody has any idea. i have the ibus 20 arriving tomorrow, hopefully this will just plug in and work. I've scoured the internet and can't find any reports of similar issues with this unit.

yeah, this is my understanding its an FLI 10inch sub. i am going to see the installation guys tomorrow to discuss this. the previous car [06 vrs] had no problem with this sub, but this is a different beast with a new ECU, different battery etc... i stole this off the internet but this is the model I'm thinking of replacing the sub altogether with the Focal ibus 20 thing, it'd fit neatly in the side of the boot and won't need anything other than the 12v feed/Speakers from the rear of the HU [which i now have as a result of this failed installation]

you could be onto something Gerry... i've done a lot of reading this week and i now know a lot more than i did the sub amp is pretty small in size and it has a 20A fuse in it. i don't think it's particularly heavy on the juice, but i really have no idea. If i cant get anywhere tomorrow, i'll probably go down the route of an under seat sub which has all the connectivity etc from the back of the HU and needs no additional power. There is a focal unit that others here have installed so i'm checking reviews on that. It's possibly the best option and i may be able to fit it myself. today i've driven to work with sub etc disconnected, stop start is working, no flashing lights. car still ok

it is that yes

great thanks andy... battery seems ok, i do 40+ miles a day so it should have charged properly. i was a bit dubious about having them hack around behind the dash fusebox. I'm also unsure where they've run the earth wire. if that's connected to the battery then that could be causing issue too. it could also have something to do with how they've wired the remote on wire in... as i remember this had to be jacked onto the +ve at the back of the head unit. maybe that's upsetting things? wonder where else i can take that from... it used to be the remote/electric aerial wire but that's a thing of the past now. what's really annoying is it's all working from the 12v boot socket. if only the SS system error would go away.. i've always done this stuff myself. I loathe being at the mercy of these people. i've done more research and probably know more than they do. now i'm half installed so i can either walk away and get someone else to sort it or try and guide them through my findings. they won't like that though my backup plan is to get one of the focal under seat units as they seem to plug directly into the back of the HU with an adapter and don't require any messing with wires. that would probably have been my chosen path if i'd known what i know now...

well i've learned so much over the past days. my car has this MQB management system. it seems this is the cause of all evils so. final question until the next phase of this debacle. Which fuse shall i use for 12v perm supply, which will continue to feed during a start/stop cycle? the sub has a 20A fuse in it, so that limits options somewhat.

Start Stop system error with the flashing coiled wire icon. in summary: i had a sub fitted into the boot, the fitters took a direct feed from the battery. this had an adverse effect on the SS system, and after some good input here i discovered that this direct feed from battery thing is a big no-no. I disconnected it all and the SS error went away & the system worked fine. Plugged it all back again, same issue. I've spoken to the fitters who are going to rectify the mistake and take a feed from the back of the fusebox, from one of the accessory fuses. I've done extensive research into how this will happen and based on a number of people here installing things like the Focal Bus 20 under seat amp, then this seems to work without interfering with the SS system. this is due to happen on friday. Today I powered the sub directly from the 12v boot feed and the SS error is back. I'm not fully understanding why? is it because the system is detecting drain from the supply in the boot? from previous posts above, this shouldn't happen as that feed is understood by the battery management. Basically i don't want anyone hacking around until i fully understand what's going to be done. I'm completely lost because of this 12v feed issue, i'd expected using that would NOT cause the error. arrrrgh