Bertee

One of the best things I have ever done and my only regret is letting life get in the way of doing it. Been riding a few years now with a ZX6R & a ZX9R... only downside is that the car will never put that smile on my face again.

It is still going to idle faster at startup, the choke is on. Don't drive it until the revs have settled down to normal, doesn't take that long, and no driving under load until up to temp.

If you're near R-Tech then go there mate. Nick knows these engines inside and out and doesn't take the mick with the prices either. I drove up there from Surrey and he fixed my lazy actuator before taking it to stage 2, cannot say enough good things about R-Tech

You can work out the power from the amount of air the MAF is reading IIRC

The golf will always feel quicker as standard, less weight and no real backside to them, but even as standard it shouldn't be that slow. It might look spotless but still have an issue with DV, N75, rotten hoses etc

I've just had my brake fluid changed today... £45.00

Is there not a way to knock out the sensor? Sort of defeats the object of having a shallow sump if I have to have the sensor at the bottom. I take it I can't just short it, it's gonna take a resistor or some type of re-coding?

I did see that one but I will need gaskets, sealant and for the difference in price Awesome would be the better option. On another note, the shallow sumps don't come with an oil level sensor hole?

I have just got a call from a VW specialist who is servicing my car to tell me that on the last service the sump plug was over tightened which has stripped the thread. I had noticed a small drop of oil coming out over the last year, but only the odd drop. Anyway, rather than replace the standard sump I might as well go shallow so... Anyone know of any really good deals at the moment? I have looked at Awesome who want £131.99 + P&P.

You could take it into a local garage and ask them to crack it for you.

Or maybe a Skoda/vRS APN file?

Yeah mate, long time no hear, been a few problems but it's slowly getting sorted. Yeah, I meant to say, it involves breaking a few clips.

As in my signature... Blueflame turbo back with decat... Sound lovely now it has mellowed in

Has anyone got the Alpine Image Convertor for the iDA-X100 or the iDA range of multimedia receivers?

I've never had a light for the lambda sensor. You can get back boxes that are similar looking to the standard box.

It can be done mate, ask Clive. You can take the rear seats out so that might help.

I like it, one of your best attempts yet

That'll be tight, but I am going to say short. You have to come from the battery on the passenger side, through the bulkhead and then up the passenger side of the car and then across the boot. Or the same from the battery, across under the dash, up the drivers side and into the boot. I bought 23ft (7m) and there wasn't a great deal left. If you route the cables under the tray behind the battery, through the grommet by the pollen filter and then down into the footwell it takes a bit more cable than you think.

I have been using Momementum 99 for the last year or so, switching from V Power. I have had no problems, it pulls just as strong as V Power and it is cheaper. I don't keep track of my MPG anymore as it just got upsetting (and it's gay) but I think I get more from the Momentum than I did with the V Power.

Depends on the price you manage to get the bits for and what bits you go for.

My first set lasted about 2 years but they were well shot.

The FMIC is an essential for Stage 2 really.

I've been running T1-R's for the last 3 years (second set on the front) and I trust them wet or dry