kenycymro

If it was established that the fix caused the problem, bet you anything they will blame something else every time..

I have a 2012 Yeti with the 2.0tdi 110 bhp engine, and have no problems with our hilly area of North Wales. More that enough power for hills and overtaking, and no problem with the five speed box. It's the 2 wheel drive version which is probably better for this engine, a little less weight and drag. 120,000 miles and so far no problems with the dpf or egr, although I often add dpf cleaner to the diesel to try and keep it that way. I do like to keep the revs up and not let it labour, but still average around 48mpg.

I bought the plates off ebay, only fitted the one nearest the manifold, went for a run, and within a few miles went into limp mode. VCDS said egr fault, so had to reset and remove the plate. Could have just drilled a small hole in the plate, but I'd rather get the job done properly once and for all..

Blanking off egr at manifold is a five minute job, no need to remove egr (****** of a job). From what I understand both must be done at the same time. last diesel for me as well, they have become so complicated, and expensive to fix..

Can't just blank off the egr on the Yeti, has to be removed from the software the same time. if you just blank off, within a few miles you'll be in limp mode with a warning light on the dash.. My 2.0 tdi 110bhp has done 120,000 miles and so far no problems with the egr.. But eventually it will play up along with that bloody dpf..

My 2012 Yeti with Bi-xenon headlamps were set extremely low when I bought it. So low as to be dangerous in my mind. Followed instructions from a previous post on this forum to adjust them, and boy what a difference. Feel safe to drive on dip beam now, and no one has ever flashed me to complain (if they were too high). Only a long allen key needed, and the adjusters were on top of the headlight bodies.

Just come back from Ireland having done hundreds of miles, and the car is no different to how it was before the modification.

A very nice skoda note book, a good quality skoda brolly, and a skoda flask. Didn't expect anything as I have never used them before (or any other garage as I'm a mechanic). Did tell them the car didn't need cleaning, but they did it anyhow.. Off to Ireland next week, so will do a lot of mileage and give the car a proper test..

Well had mine done yesterday at North Wales Skoda, took a lot longer than they said it would though. Drove sixty miles home, and couldn't see any difference whatsoever in power levels. Time will tell wether MPG has been affected. Got a nice Skoda goodie bag for taking it in, and they washed and valeted my car for free..

Mine booked in for Thursday, will let you know if I see any difference in MPG or performance..

Mine's started doing it as well, think it could be the duel mass at it has a bit of a rattle..

Just replaced disks and pads on my 2012 Yeti, and there's no loom on the car to the brake pads. Not sure if all models had them fitted, as the old pads didn't have a cable attached..

Thanks for that, hate cutting and pasting on the iPad, never seem to get it all on...lol

Kenycymro (ken the Welshman), live near Pwllheli, Gwynedd. Now I have a 2012 Skoda Yeti 2.0 tdi Elegance, but still have my old X reg Octavia 1.9tdi which is sadly ready for the scrap heap (or spare parts if anyone wants to buy it )..

O.S. wheel bearing fitted today, boy was it tight, I had to use the 10 tonne press at work to get it out. Very quiet on the road now Now just a MAF sensor to source.. :wonder:

In the 8 years I've had it I've never had a workshop manual, so that's the first I've heard of that. The car drives well apart from loosing turbo power every now and again, which after reading this forum seems to be a MAF sensor fault. I rarely drive it as the wife loves it so much she won't let me abuse it She did say it had a wobble and a rumble from the the front end at speed (not always). Mind you it could be the as new 'part worns' I fitted causing this.

Yes there is a strange noise, not sure if it's the pump, but most likely the source

Blimey, I just found this: http://www.buyacar.co.uk/cars/skoda/skoda_octavia/review_skoda_octavia_1998-2004_1503.jhtml "Equipment lists are par for the course, with all models apart from the base LXi getting ABS. GLXi, SLXi and SLX TDi models were all fitted with EDL traction control systems, should the urge to emulate a Skoda works rally driver overcome you." Apparently rwbaldwin is spot on.. All Slx Tdi's came with EDL :yes: so there's probably nothing wrong with the diff, it's supposed to do that :no: Cheers mate.

EDL? Is that electronic diff lock? Doubt if it has that fitted as the SLX is a pretty basic model. Anyone know if rwbaldwin is right?

I lifted both wheels off the ground today and put a metal bar against each tyre in turn with the car started in gear. Each time I was able to stall the engine. The car's worth £500 at the most, so do I look for a 2nd hand unit or scrap a fantastic car because of the cost? :(

Looks like I'm the only one with this problem :'(

Hi, I wonder if anyone's had the same problem on their Octavia as I have. Seemed to have a noisy front n.s. wheel bearing during road test, but when jacked up noise seemed to come from the o.s. bearing. Started the car in gear with the o.s. wheel off the ground and the n.s. wheel was spinning every now again filling the air with tyre smoke. I know the mk1 SLX Tdi doesn't have an LSD so I'm wondering if it's a diff problem? Anyone else had the same problem? By the way the car's done 185,000 and still runs well..

When I unlock my X reg Octavia SLX TDI using the drivers door lock all the windows open automatically. If I then lock the car using the same lock all the windows shut by themselves. I have read many threads about central locking and electric window problems on this forum. Most of these point to a drivers door module or wiring problem, so could this again be the case? I now lock and unlock the car using the boot lock and everything seems fine but this is not ideal. Any ideas fellow Skoda Owners? I also have the instrument panel problem that has been talked about many times before. I took out the fuse 6 months ago and everything's still working. It would be nice to get the instruments working as they should though.