bogey555

Hey guys, this might be a stupid question but I'm not very mechanical. My 1.9TDI O2 has the limp mode problem since a couple of months. I have 175000 km on the car. At first the problem was only when I passed other cars and pushed her hard in 4th gear. The problem resolved when I stopped and started the car again. The garage told me it was a problem with the air inlet valves and they replaced them but the motor light is still on. They said that it would be the turbo then and it was probably the turbo that damaged the inlet valve? The engine light stays on but today I tried pushing the car to it's limits and it ran fine. The only problem is the light that stays on. Maybe I got lucky today :-) I will try again later. Is it normal that the engine light stays on even after switching the engine off with the limp mode issue or is there likely some other issue. I also have a broken compressor on the airco system, could this cause an engine light? Thanks in advance for any help.

I placed a 16 mm2 about 2 weeks ago. Get the battery out and like everybody says there are holes behind this battery to pass to the inside of the car. Using a metal wire helps, something like a metal cotehanger. If you want to go to the trunk you need to undo the sideskirts on the inside. Start with the one on the B style and then you can take the front and back of. The back has a plastic screw under the rear seat. You need to take the side of the backseat off. Just push it on the bottom and then slide it up. In the front there are a few screws the undo to take the cap under the steeringweel of. All in all it was pretty straithforward. O and I drive a LHD car, don't know if it is different on an RHD.

Hello guys, ... and girls In the Octy II section there is a nice thread that handles the front soundsystem of the OII. Octavia II Poor Sounding Stereo Fix It is also a sticky in the Octavia II - Help & Hint Threads/Links section. I post it here because I don't know how many of you go there and the tricks might help other than OII owners as well. Penguin has found out that if you change the capacitor that is on the tweeter to a 3,3 µF one, the harsh sound is gone and the OEM system sounds a lot better. Just check it out and I hope it will benefit you're overall sound experience:thumbup:

In some country's they sell it with the HT 20 tweeter or with different midrange or woofer. Be sure you get the version I mentioned in one of the previous posts as otherwise you could end up dissapointed. R/

I just send a PM to Tom_vRS , lets see what happens

You're a 100 % correct Penguin had a very good idea there, maybe we should ask to make a sticky out of his mod, I guess with the little work a lot of people would be tempted to try it

Hi downtime, Sure because you send only freq above 12000 Hz to the tweeter so the sqeaky sound is gone. If you place a decent tweeter like A16NS V you can use a higer capacitor because that tweeter can handle freq above 5000 Hz. I guess the stock tweeter just isn't good:( The only problem with this mod is that you get a gap in your freq range as the woofer can never catch up to this freq.

I thought you were planning to take out the woofer and replace it by a midrange, so I misunderstood It's a pitty that you can't change to much about the company car :( Judging by your pictures I thought you were planning to change everything. Anyway it should already be a lot better than the OEM setup Maybe placing a midrange in the side cupholder is still a possibility :confused: There is only a little hole necessary for the cable if you use a sort of PVC tube like mr200sx.

Hi Genoa1893, The sub has an active crossover that goes from 50 to 125 Hz. You can't compare a room to a car, it is completely different. I can assure you even on 50 Hz, if you lower the front woofer volume without lowering the sub volume you hear the sound seperating. I know its strange but it happens. Once you cranck the volume up on the front you hear a smooth transition as were the sub seems to blend in the rest of the music. My sub is also controlled by the HU, so there is no problem there. I set the volume of the sub to the desired level and it goes up and down with the volume of the HU. The only point I was trying to make was that if you should only place high and mid in the front and let the bass come souly from behind it would sound pitifull.

One of the disadvantages of your setup is the tweeter location. If you would have moved them up to the A-pillar it would have been better. Anyway you have the advantage of a nice stealthy installation wich performs a lot better than OEM. Be aware if you want to move the bass to the back you are going to pull the entire soundstage back. I heard a lot about it but it isn't until this weekend since I installed the sub I know what it means. If the music is playing soft and I crank up the amp of the sub, the bass moves to the back and it sounds terrible. The moment the frontwoofers get turned up a bit you get a sort of soundcoupling and the bass is all of a sudden cumming from everywhere:thumbup: This sounds a lot better, so be aware you need to keep woofers in the front to play kickbass. If you want more mid I'm afraid there is nothing else to do then placing a midrange speaker in the front.:( Would have been a lot better if the speakers would be located in the front of the doors.

Hi Genoa1893, First as promised some links Mobile Electronics Australia > Hertz HSK-163 Rainbow vs Focal vs MB Quart vs Hertz - VW GTI Forum / VW Rabbit Forum / VW R32 Forum / VW Golf Forum - Golfmkv.com HSK 165 http://www.elettromedia.eu/press/title_files/Test%20Ausgereift220.pdf http://www.elettromedia.eu/press/title_files/Hertz%20HSK%20165113.pdf Just read a bit trough these and you will be convinced of their quality. The last 2 handle the HSK 165 a 2way set that can't compare with the HSK 163. So if you read the positive remarks on the HSK 165, imagine what the 163's sound like. Nice price (259 €) , just be carefull that you have the correct set, because they can vary from country to country. Tweeter : HT25 Mid : HL 70 Woofer : HV 165L (Better than the HV 165) As for an amp, 100% sure you need to amp these. They will sound ok from the HU but they will blow you're mind once amped. Don't forget sound damping in the front doors or you won't enjoy your setup. I'm going to hang them on an older pioneer amp with 2 times 100W rms because I still have it lying around here. 1 amp is enough if you don't use a sub. I have a flat sub in the back since this weekend and I must say its a world of difference

Okay you convinced me I will try placing it on the carpet with Velcro and see what the result is. It's easy and cheap enough:thumbup: This way if it's ok I can leave it and otherwise I can still pass by my dealer to bolt it down. Thanks for your comments

Mine vibrates a lot and takes away al the fun of listening to the music the moment you play a little louder:mad: This is certaily going to be something I will do this year.

I would certainly go for the HT 25 as it is far better then the HT 20. The HT 25 is comparable to the Focal tweeter and shares the same sharp sound. With the Hertz crossover you can drop the tweeter level by 2 dB and that will be necessary. If you don't use the Hertz crossover, it is still easy to calculate a resistor network to drop the tweeter by as many dB as you want. If you check out the HSK 163, this set has al the components I would use, including the HV 165 L woofer wich is extremly good. Maybe a bitt less kick then the K2P but fantasticly warm I have some dutch reviews about this set, but I don't know if this is interesting for you.

Hey TallioN, Nice work looks great What have you done for sound dampening of the doors? If you dampend them do you have pictures of it?

You have a point, velcro is easy to use but I have used it a lot at work and if you apply it generously it sticks better then glue;) If you need to take the sub out for any reason you need a crowbar to get it out:D I didn't know it was only the air displacement that was important, I thought that the vibes should also be passed on to the chassis. A few weeks ago I listend to a Hertz democar and there they placed a sub in the spare tyre hole. The guy told me the reason why it sounded so great was that it was fixed to the chassis. :confused: Anyway I will go over to the dealer and see if it is easy to get bolts trough the trunk as Gizmo68 says and if it's to much hassle I will check the Velcro solution , but maybe try it on the carpet first.

If you place another HU and you need 12 V after the ignition, you need to get it from the fusebox:( wich is a lot of hassle. I asked this question to my local ICE dealer and he told me that the newer cars don't even have a switched 12V anymore. Apparently the IP bus takes care of this. The moment you switch the HU on it detects it on the bus and it supplys 12 V. Maybe the HU producers should consider adapting their HU's to this IP bus and leave the switched 12 V out.

I'm not convinced about the quality of the tweeter:confused: , but as far as the woofer is concerned, with adequate sound dampening of the doors I presume it will do fine. Check out this site in Belgium, they sell Focal and Hertz and apparently you can get all speakers separetly. If you got a shop near you, you should listen to the Hertz stuff. It sounds great and at a much better price rate then Focal. (Only look at the Hi-Energy class) The HL70 is a midrange with the same size as the Focal midrange. Hertz

Thanks for all your replies guys, I will pass by the garage and ask them for some assistance in drilling the holes. I think the bolt system of Gizmo68 gives the best attachement to the chassis. I guess I will bolt, sort of holders in the trunk and then pass a belt trough them. I will remake the plastic ones delivered with the kit in stainless steel.

You have a point there, but how do you get the bolts inside? You need to drill holes in the floor, what leaves me with my initial question, what about the diesel reservoir? And if you use bolts don't you need access from under the car?

So this glue is supposed to be strong enough?

Thats a very good idea, can you elaborate a bit further on how to do it exactly, I never used epoxy before. Is there any brand I should consider? Is it strong enough to withstand the vibrations?

Check this one out as well, contains a lot of pictures of the front speakers. http://briskoda.net/ice-security-insurance/octy-ii-ultimate-audio-upgrade-guide-pt-1-speakers/117485/

No, so I can't attach it to that. Anyway I presume that attaching it to a false floor wood give bad resonance. Even now, I have strapped it down with belts on the side hooks in the back it lets the trunk vibrates a lot. I will certainly need some damping material in some places.

Very good question, I haven't even looked at that. I presumed that it was as easy as drilling holes and attaching the thing with selftapping screws. The sub comes with plastic bars that need to be screwed and belts to attach the sub to these plastics.