EMDrox

Should point out that Chris Knott are a small company based in a little village (that most people have never heard of) in Kent, so they can't be compared to the big boys in terms of speed of answering the phone etc. It's like comparing a corner shop against Tesco. Means they can offer excellent service but not in all situations. They specialise in undercutting other quotes, so contact them last. Also, bear in mind they financially support this site out of their commission. Sounds like they can't cover some areas though...

Anyone got the new album? Any good or just cashing in on the reforming fad?

As the noise increases when turning left, it sound like drivers side as that will be loading through left hand corners. Could try swapping this one for the spare wheel (assuming original tyre still, i.e. it won't be a Toyo TR1) - if exactly the same noise happens still then you can rule out the tyre being the cause. Might be a phaf changing the wheels over though, but also gives a chance to spin it by hand as Matt@theforce is suggesting above.

Previous cars... Nissan 100NX (needed new brakes, radiator and fuel tank started leaking so got scrapped :thumbdwn:), Mondeo tdi that blew up big end after 3 weeks (scrapped ), still got an '88 1.0l polo estate (frankly only worth scrap )... the vRS is NOT going to become scrap!! No, sirree! But... still have a Suzuki SV1000S that's got to go ('53plate genuine 2200miles) - PM me if you want to make an offer!!

I had a droning noise from front wheel bearing failing - started to hear it around 25-30mph but above 40 or so the road and engine noise would start to drown it out. Please don't ask me to describe the sound!!

Has he got your car now??!!

Functionally I'd say there's no difference between std and aftermarket DV - how can one DV release pressure *better* than another?! The latter will probably last longer though, and Forge does seem to be the make to have. I've remapped and can't be bothered to change the DV - it won't make any performance difference so I don't see the point personally.

If you go for a remap I'd strongly suggest you go for someone who's local, and preferably someone who'll check it on a rolling road at the time. I went on a rolling road day with the intention of getting it mapped, only to find my car had already been mapped (which was news to me!) but was making less power than stock! Still haven't got to the bottom of the problems but I'm now up at 206bhp and 230lb-ft so can't complain. There should be more top end to come if I can find out what the problem is... Std dump valve is much more noticable with my K&N panel filter.

Curves before and after... Power/Torque before the map: Boost AFR etc pre map: Power/Torque post IP map: Boost/AFR post IP map: Ignore the dodgy bit where Mike took his foot off at 5800 :confused:. Not quite sure why the AFR is like that at low revs - don't notice anything while driving though (except the horizon getting nearer sooner ). Don't blame the traffic - I had the same!!

Right, success at last !! Been on the ramps and all the pipes checked, no faults found, but on rebuilding and testing she finally responds to the maps and gets the fuel right :D:D. Now giving 206bhp at 5800rpm and 230lb-ft at 3100. It may not sound the greatest bhp but it's 40bhp and 30lb-ft up on what she started with, and has got a fairly huge mid-range bulge. Couldn't get any grip in the wet roads testing afterwards!! Will post the curves soon but Mike's foot 'slipped' at 5800 rpm on the rollers, so the curve takes bit of a dive after this!! D'Oh ! Much more responsive and definately goes faster - so much better!! However, anyone round here got vagcom and willing to run a full diagnostic? Suspicion from Des that somethings not quite right somewhere and there is more to come at the top end. PM me if you can help? Oh, yeah, Mark - I've coughed up!! :P

Glad to hear you've had some improvement - hope you don't have to fork out too much. My turn Friday!! Must remember to look up your grill, defo think it's better than the std chrome on mine. All the best.

Look for the Kent Rolling Road day thread in the South East Meets section - there's some charts near the end giving estimated crank power, wheel power, boost, air/fuel ratios and torque curves for 2 non-mapped octy mk1 vRS's. Mine was mapped by the previous owner (which was news to me!) but only made 167bhp crank; looks like it's air leak post turbo somewhere. Getting it sorted and remapped again on Friday (hopefully - it's on a compromise map at the moment) and I will post my before and after graphs after that on the same thread.

Got a vRS estate and it's fantastic. Had the wierd feeling of speaking to the previous owner today, a year after I bought it, and he wishes he hadn't sold it! Mine was on variable service (60,000miles in 2.5yrs and had 3 services in that time at I think about 20,000, 37,000 and 54,000) but I've put to standard interval. Got a suspected air leak on hose somewhere around intercooler but only identified through a rolling road run, causes no problems in normal use. Engine is good for plenty high mileage as long as looked after. It's just brilliant. I'm not biased am I??!!

Personally I'd suggest to replace the pump at the same time as the cambelt, and go for a metal impellor. Does cost a little bit more to do the pump though as have to replace coolant and the pump isn't, as I understand, quite directly behind the cambelt (other fittings have to be removed so takes a bit longer). Gives me piece of mind though...

Just fitted F1 GSD3's all round. Happy with them so far, though only done ~300miles. Shows up flaws in the handling/suspension! Alot of people seem to go for the F1 assymetrics now - they're better grip but at expense of tyre life. These or Toyo's were the advice when I asked around.