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vrs180

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    Teesside

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    Ford Focus ST3.5 Powershift & Audi Q3 Black Edition, 184ps, quattro, S Tronic

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  1. Kev has said it all really. The manifold is usually drilled and tapped as close to the cylinder head as possible/practical. The only issue is that If the EGT probe were to ever disintegrate then fragments of the probe will almost certainly damage the turbo charger turbine wheel. However all EGT probes are designed to slowly burn away and in theory will stop working long before they degrade to a state were they could potentially disintegrate.
  2. The simplest way to check is with VAG COM. The torsion value should be +/- 3. If you are sure the timing belt has jumped one tooth then get it checked out ASAP, these belts don't jump a tooth without good reason and something very serious must be wrong to have caused it.
  3. Hi Hutchy If you do find the EML light comes on after fitting the new gasket (which it did on the wifes 07 BLT, but not on our sons 06 BLT ???). Then I'd recommend refitting the std gasket and adjusting the EGR valve with VAG COM from a stored value of 32768 (factory std) to 33638. Not only does this cure the BLT stutter (100%) it will also prevent the EGR related EML fault.
  4. Hi Just thought I'd update this thread now I have the results of the rolling road session carried out earlier today. Its all good news. The car went back to the same tuner that remapped it 9 months ago (Big Fish Tuning) post GT1749VB and they were able to overlay the previous power/torque graph with todays results. Without any adjustments to the map the engine torque had increased by 10Nm and power increased by 2bhp. Perhaps more significantly though, was seeing just how much adjusting the injector lash had effected torque rise ie; torque builds much more rapidly than before and starts from lower down in the rev range. My conclusion is: The increases in both peak power and torque are relatively small, but importantly they are increases, and when combined to perhaps the slightly more significant fact that the torque band "width" has increased, I think checking the injector lash adjustment is very much worthwhile (especially considering how easy it is to do and how little time it takes to complete).
  5. We think our car also runs better with the injectors set to 180 degrees, it's much quieter now, revs much more freely and seems to have a bit more go about it from idle speed to 3000rpm. The trip computer indicates the mpg has improved also, but I'm slightly sceptical at the moment and won't be convinced until I can do my own calculation. One other thing I have noticed is the Miltec exhaust tail pipe is not getting quite as black/sooty as it used to, I'm a bit OCD about such things and keep a cloth in the boot to give them a wipe after most journeys (sad I know). The only concern I have is it may now be slightly down on power from 3000rpm upwards but I'm really not sure. It's booked in for a 2hr rolling road session on Friday 1st July and to have the map adjusted as required. The place it's going to is the same place it went to be mapped after I fitted a Garrett GT1749VB in September 2015, so it will be interesting to see what actual effects adjusting the injector lash has had on the engine performance. For info; previously the car recorded 195bhp @ 3733rpm & 410Nm @ 2248rpm.
  6. Kev I think you are right, some sort of injector related work must have been done prior to us buying the car. We bought from a Skoda main dealer, it was less than two years old and had done 12k with one previous owner. The dealer had sold the car from new and done all servicing etc, they told us it had not required any warranty work prior to us buying it. Hutchy It will be interesting to see what yours are set to. I'm not sure in what year the revised injector lash setting was adopted, but if yours is untouched from new it will prob give us a good idea. See you are in the North east, I live in Guisborough, if you need to borrow my DTI gauge you are welcome (I used a DTI because my eyes are not what they used to be, but in all honesty a DTI is not essential).
  7. Hi At the weekend I decided I would remove the cam shaft cover on my wife's 07 (61K) Fabia vRS and check for any signs of wear on the camshaft etc. The great news is it was as good as new, with no sign at all of wear or scoring on the camshaft, rollers etc. But.....while the top was off I checked the injector lash and was suprised to find all the injectors were set at 140 degrees. The Haynes manual says the injector lash should be 225 degrees (ASZ engine code), however all internet searches I've done suggest a new revised (by VAG group) setting of 180 degrees. I adjusted the injectors to 180 degrees and we have run the car for several days since. The car starts and drives fine with no visible smoke, but compared to befor it's quieter running, smoother, pulls much stronger from idle speed to 3000rpm and has a much improved throttle response. For peace of mind the car is booked in for a rolling road session to have the map checked. Anyone got any ideas why our car has seemingly come supplied from new with the wrong injector lash settings ??? Or are all the BLT engine code vehicles set from new with 140 degree injector lash ???
  8. Was oil leaking from the hole in the side of the EGR valve ? Once oil appears at the hole in the side of the casing then the EGR is on borrowed time, rubber diaphragms and oil don't generally go well together. No need to buy a vacuum pump, just push the plunger up by hand, place a finger over the vacuum port and release the plunger. If the diaphragm is Ok the plunger will stay in place and not close under spring pressure until your finger is removed from the vacuum port.
  9. Fantastic, your car looks like a proper Tarmac spec wrc. If you can get some photographs in a more picturesque location then surely your car deserves a place in the 2017 briskoda calendar.
  10. It's an away job provided the correct size deep socket is used and flexi drive is used between the socket and extension otherwise the glow plug will snap.
  11. Perhaps a good quality/efficient oil cooler would help prevent piston failure. Not only can effective oil cooling reduce piston crown temperatures (ideally no more than 600 degrees F) but it will also reduce combustion temperature and EGT.
  12. Wow that looks great. Unbelievable what you have achieved, especially considering its winter and you are working outside. PS I also have a tin of Ford Modena Green which I bought to touch up any stone chips on the brake calipers and to my eyes it's a perfect match.
  13. We have owned several Mk1 vrs cars and we have a Fabia SE. The differences between a standard vrs and an SE are as follows. Race blue paint. Colour coded door handles. Leather seats. Cruise control. Six CD changer. Privacy glass. Full size spare alloy wheel.
  14. If you want a Michi catch can I have a black one, with sight tube. I bought it a while back when Lloyd was doing a group buy and never got round to fitting it. Bill.
  15. Hi Mike. I'm a (truck) mechanic and I fitted a brand new GT1749VB (PD160) to my wife's fabia vRS SE (BLT) in Sept 2015. As such I can confirm that a GT1749VB does fit a BLT engine and will bolt straight up to the exhaust down pipe, oil drain and oil feed pipes, heat shields, lower support brkt etc all fit as per the original KKK. One adjustment is required to the compressor housing (some refer to it as clocking), and all you do is slacken off the half dozen 6mm bolts, by approx one turn and rotate the compressor housing a few degrees until the outlet is in the exact same position as the KKK BV30-0016 you will have already removed then tighten the bolts back up. The EGR cooler however will not refit so a blanking plate and gasket is required along with a genuine VAG heater hose (re route) kit , I got mine from Darkside. I got a litre of G13 just in case I lost coolant when swapping the pipes over but in the end none was needed. (Ask your mechanic to take care when fitting the heater hose kit, the new pipes require careful positioning to ensure they don't rub on the Tandem Pump housing). As for gaskets, nuts etc, if you buy a new Garrett all the gaskets, studs and nuts are supplied with it (even comes with oil to prime the bearings with), the only additional gaskets and seals I recommend you get are the inlet manifold gasket, and a turbo outlet pipe seal/ "O" ring. It goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway) renew the engine oil and filter and the air filter. In addition to the above we chose to remove the redundant EGR (just for reliability reasons, they all seem to end up leaking oil eventually), and fitted a Darkside EGR delete (very good quality Kit (in fact it looks too good bolted up to the OEM manifold and anti shudder valve)). No adjustments are required to the actuator stop screw or rod length, only a custom remap required. Hope I've covered everything, if not, please ask. Bill.
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