TheWifesVRS

Forget it man, you need to re educate yourself. The soot comes from poor quality fuel. And as for saying "I literally have no words as to how silly you're making yourself look." you clearly havent read and understood anything ive posted. This kinda says it all about how educated and experienced you are. " My mechanic who has been servicing cars for god knows how many years told me the other day that by removing the back boxes does not increase horse power on my car... " over and out.

Ok ill give that a go. Cheers

which parts exactly? :wonder: With regards to soot build up/blockages we dont suffer from this in our country, havent for a long time since ultra low sulphur fuels came along. At Protune remapping there are over 40 agents, all qualified to carry out mechanical work as well as straight remaps, they have the capability to remove EGRs but they wont, even though its easy money. I think this is a market driven thing, its an easy 'mod' anyone can do it. Its amazing how many people think they know better than the vehicle manufacturers. The Audi le mans cars all have EGRs as do the endurance racing BMs. Just because something appears on a forum doesnt make it gospel, a lot of the time its just the exact same age old market driven bad info being recirculated.. Aside from all this there's an obvious environmental issue. EGR reduces NOx emissions that cause smog and costs billions annually from illnesses deaths and environmental problems. The promotion of increased NOx emissions shouldnt really be allowed on a respected public forum in this day and age IMO.

I used to work for Protune ecu remapping, the master mapper guy there (johhny loder ex superchips) used to pull his hair out every time i told him the spec of the customers car, when remapping, if it included an EGR delete or a decat. He had a go at me as id removed the EGR on my wifes VRS, id removed it as it was spewing oil. It made bugger all difference in power/ pickup, so i got a used one and fitted it. Its one of these performance upgrades whose results are all in your head. taken from myturbodiesel.com wiki: If you are thinking of removing the EGR cooler only so that the intake charge is hotter and in theory, less prone to carbon buildup, this defeats a large portion of EGR effectiveness since emissions and temperatures will be higher without the cooler. The EGR cooler also helps warm up the engine by giving heat from the exhaust to the engine. This results in a faster warm up, less engine wear, and better fuel economy due to faster engine warm up. There are only small mileage or power gains from disabling the EGR system since it is greatest at partial throttle and idle. If you are removing the EGR for reduced pumping losses and the small power or economy gains, bigger and cleaner gains can be made elsewhere. Also, the pumpe duse cars use an O2 sensor to regulate the EGR system much more efficiently than non pumpe duse cars. Even newer technologies on the common rail system cars allow more precise fuel delivery and burn, resulting in less intake clogging. I have seen comments that suggest the ingestion of the sooty EGR exhaust gasses combined with diesel piston blowby can cause oil contamination. This is false since the soot gets burned in the combustion chamber. Diesel engine oil is also formulated to hold soot and combustion byproducts and the engine will have sooty oil whether it has an EGR system or not. Engine oil quality and engine maintenance is a much greater factor in proper lubrication than the presence of an EGR system.

I cant believe people still think removing the EGR is a performance upgrade, and its been made a sticky topic too! Stop wasting your time and money, clean it but dont bin it! Ask any (good) remapper, they will probably laugh or swear at you if you remove your EGR. Leave it on but let the remapper alter its cycle if required. This article explains things better than i can. http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/05/dont-block-or-remove-the-egr-valve-its-saving-you-money/

i recently refurbed the handbrake mechs on the calipers of my '54 plate vrs. I let the fluid in the reservoir go pretty low the first time i bled them, so i rebled the whole system with an EZI bleed on a 20psi bike tyre. Now when i first drive away i need to pump the pedal once or twice to firm it up, after this the brakes are fine, until i stop again and leave the car for a while, set off again, then i have to repump the brakes, again theyre fine and firm until i have to leave the car for a while. Do i need to bleed again on a higher pressure, could there still be an airlock? The brakes are great after that first initial pump or 2. Maybe i have air in the ABS pump? thanks

have you tried kenny at kennys vw audi inverness 01463 718652 ?

ive replaced the temp sender on the vrs, the CEL light is still on and the glowplug light takes ages to go off, does the fault need to be cleared from the ecu?

ive replaced the temp sender on the vrs, the CEL light is still on and the glowplug light takes ages to go off, does the fault need to be cleared from the ecu?

thought so..the fluid looks pretty filthy too..guess ill check behind the gaiters on the rack tommorrow if poss. is there any point in scanning for codes? cheers for the pointers

ok..thanks. is the level supposed to cover the pump? mine isnt, not sure if you can make it out from this pic ?

ive just checked the fluid again, there is some in there although its well below the level of the end of the cap indicator, about 50 mm down the bottle. I thankfully cant see any leaks around the steering rack either..so im thinking scan for PAS angle sensor codes or pump.. mr rooney, thanks for reply.. theres no warning light at all on mine :/

sorry to drag up this old chestnut again. my issue(s) 54 plate VRS 103k PAS is dropping out intermittently There are no warning lights Ive changed the battery and ive been for a 15minute run including roundabouts, still the same. Ive removed the cap from off the fluid reservoir and i cant see any fluid. Ive checked the connections to the top of the battery and they look ok i understand that an angle sensor failure is rare on the VRS? im just about to go out and check for leaks around the rack..and pray i dont find any :S any ideas?

just got back from speaking to an indipendant pro..common fault in the ABS ECU where the circuit board (i think thats what he meant) is bent in the ECU and it causes fractures over time. he suggested these guys http://www.ecu-repairs.com/abs-ecus/ who charge £99 and have a 3 day turnaround.. just gotta hope the ECU isnt too much of a pain to get to

As title. I scanned yesterday after 2 incidents of esp traction control light and brake warning lights flashing on although with no difference in performance . 18057 Powetrain databus: Missing message from ABS Controller P1649 - 35 -10 --- Intermittent could it be a knackered ABS controller? thanks