philevo

Cheers Wardy. I'm located on the Wirral, near Liverpool and I'm looking around 6k spend, I know my options may be limited at this price but I'm not a big miles customer so don't mind a higher miles car around 70-80k as I wont add a massive amount to that over 2 years. Thanks for my first response, I would be waiting a year on the BMW forums. Phil

Hi Guys and Girls. So I had a Mk 1 VRS, Loved it, had no problems after 2 years ownership, not even tyres and I drove it like I stole it. I think I had to change a thermostat and that's it, obviously servicing also. I changed the car year and a half ago for a BMW 520d 2005, bored.com. I'm also amazed how many problems I've had, BMW's are supposed to be bullet proof, I have not found this to be the case, the car has a full BMW service history and I've spent a few quid on it including lots of tyres and they are run flats so not cheep. Also I don't do lots of miles out of town and I'm not convinced diesel is actually giving me much of a saving. Obviously I get good fuel economy on the motorway but I used to get 40mpg ish in my old vrs but it was fun and didn't sound like a tractor, also diesel is quite a bit more than petrol now My love affair with the mk1 VRS started in 2001 but I couldn't afford one until I was older and they where a bit cheaper as unfortunately I had to feed my family and stuff of that nature. Anyway I'm getting itchy feet and really want a petrol Mk2, but I don't want to be disappointed with the survivability or more importantly the reliability. I know most of the VRS petrol owners will be a lot like me and love cars and appreciate them for what they are, and also appreciate the VRS for being an amazing car with both practicality and also being great value for money. So will I be disappointed? Is the new VRS reliable? Decent on fuel?Good to drive, easy to maintain etc etc. I found this forum to be excellent when I had my VRS, lots of people who are very knowledgeable and love cars, the BMW forums are crap, no one ever responds. I look forward to many people talking me into getting a MK 2. Cheers Phil

Hi Guys. Just scanned my car Mk1 Octavia VRS. I had code 17704 but I know what that is. I need help on the below Fault. Address 03: ABS Breaks Component ASR front MK60 0103 Coding 0021505 Cheers Phil

Hi There. Thanks for the replies guys, If I don't have the wiper set on the scuttle panel in off position, the wiper wipes the side pillar on the upstroke. So basically I have to decide if my wiper hits the scuttle panel or wipes the side pillar. Cheers Phil

Hello Guys and girls, I'm so PC. Octavia MK1 VRS. My front wipers recently stopped working, turns out they where seized. Anyway I took the wiper linkage out, took them apart, cleaned greased, now all working, sweet. I have a bit of a problem though, my driver side wiper have a very long range, if I set the wiper in the off position above the scuttle plate, it goes past the edge of the window when wiping and also wipes a bit of the car. So in basic terms, I'm having to set the wiper in the off position on the scuttle plate to keep the bugger on the window. I'm worried about this because the wiper goes onto the scuttle plate every time the wiper goes down, I assume this will greatly reduce the life of my wipers which are the Aero type, but on the original arm. Is there any way I can alter the range of the wipe, I think I probably need to change it by about 2". Thanks and hope someone can help, cheers. Note: I did not change the motor position when I took wipers apart. Phil

Hi People. My wipers recently give up the ghost and I looked on the site for a guide on how to remove and free up the linkage, I couldn't find a step by step detail guide so here goes. 1. Open bonnet, remove plastic cap from bottom of wipers at the point of connection to the linkage. 2. Remove bolts from Wipers and remove wiper arms. 3. Remove rubber strip from bottom of Scuttle plate (this is a rubber strip just below the wipers that run the width of the car to support the top of the bonnet and form a seal) 3. remove black plastic covers that attach to the bottom of the windscreen. (scuttle panels) this is where I came into problems as I didn't know how to get them off. Basically you are best lifting the bottom (closet to front of car) of the scuttle plate until its fee of the car body , Put a flat screw driver behind the rubber seal along the top of the scuttle plate and prise the top away from the screen (you will need to go in behind the rubber seal and push the screw driver down about 1.5cm) The scuttle plate has a small ridge along the top that fits into a valley along the screen) Remove driver side first, also remember to disconnect you washers. You may find it easier to remove the scuttle plates by opening and supporting the bonnet about half open. (I broke one of my scuttle panels but hopefully with this guide you wont) Remove rubber piece from wiper spindle. 4. Remove 3No screws that hold linkage to car, these are Torx screws. 5. remove linkage from housing, you will need to fiddle about a bit but its quite easy, remember to disconnect electrical connection. 6. Put the linkage on the floor and take a pic so you remember how it goes back together for later. 7. At the end of the linkage you will see 2 spindles within a cylinder where the wipers connect, the spindle is connected to an arm that runs to the centre of the mechanism, these arms are connected to the spindles using a simple ball joint, I used the open end of a spanner to separate this joint, easy. At this point i noticed one of the spindles on mine was moving freely and the other was solid. If your are moving freely then your problem is probably the motor. 8. If it is the spindle part that is seized, you need to remove the spindle (male) from the female cylinder part of the linkage. Look at the top of the cylinder looking down at the thread, you will see a very small horse shoe shaped clip, this sits within a groove round the top of the spindle. use a flat head screw driver to remove this by pushing on one side of the clip away from the spindle (Keep you hand ready to catch the clip as it will probably fly off when you get it so far.. Remove the washer from the top spindle. Spray lots of WD 40 on the spindle, If it has seized this is where the hard work starts. Put the linkage in a vice (Or use a strong dad) I then used some mole grips, tight as I could get them, onto the right angle section of the spindle. I then worked the spindle loose by moving side to side and at the same time pushing down on the spindle, This took a long time 20 minutes, but it got it out in the end. (I Accidentally removed a guide from the female cylinder part that came out with the spindle, if this happens to you, get your mole grips on the guide and use the same process (Side to side etc) to get it off, put the guide back in the female part.) You should now have 2No spindles in front of you, one or both will probably be covered with rust. 9. Use some wet and dry sand paper of wire wool to clean the spindle. Grease the spindle up, you should use copper grease, but I used multi purpose stuff. also put some inside the female cylinder. 10. Put back together in reverse, use your picture you took earlier to get the parts in the right place. Tip, when you put the linkage back in the car, before you put your wipers on, operate the wiper from inside the car, this will ensure they are in the reset position. then put your wipers in. This took me about an hour to do, but I didn't know how to get the scuttle plates off. Its actually quite an easy job, as long as you are confident taking stuff apart you should be fine, no skill required. Hope this helps someone. Phil

I Have had a similar problem and managed to fix it yesterday. This is what I done. 1. Cleaned the throttle body, took about 5 Minutes. 2. Cleaned the Air Temp/pressure sensor, sits just next to the throttle body. Took about 5 minutes. Was very dirty. 3. Changed the Coolant temp sensor that are prone to fault (I only done this as a scan on VAG-COM confirmed it was knackered) Not necessarily causing you idling problem. 4. The breather hose on the L/H side top of engine was split so also changed that. All of this work did not exactly sort my idling issue out, but research on this site had shown that if your car has a fault (Split Hose, dirty maf, dirty throttle body etc, the ECU may adapt to the fault, if you do not clear the fault from the ECU but do fix the error, the engine may will still continue operating under the adjusted values from before your fault. I was a bit sceptical but went to the garage and had the faults cleared and adaptation done on the throttle body (Basically small adjustment that VAG-COM does automatically depending on how well the engine is running). My idling is now rock solid with no ill effects. To sumarise, get any faults cleared after you do work. Hope this helps.

WAAAHHHHOOOOOO. Got the problem sorted. I took the advice to get the faults cleared and get the adaptation done on the Throttle Body. I also decided to give the air temp/pressure sensor a clean as it is next to the throttle body, sure enough it was filthy, I would recommend doing this when you clean the throttle body as it does get very dirty. The idling went better when hot but not perfect. I when to VW and AUDI specialists in Hoylake Wirral and they done the adaptation and cleared the faults, they also welded a mount on my exhaust as it was snapped, £68.00 all in so I'm glad to report that the red weapon is paring like a kitten. Thanks for the advice. Phil

Thanks for the info that's really helpful. I did not disconnect the throttle body and I have not had the faults cleared since changing the Y piece but will certainly get it done now. Do you need a fully registered VAG-COM to do the adaptation? Cheers again Phil

Thanks for the info. I was under the impression that the throttle body could not be adjusted as it has Electronic Pedal Control or something like that anyway. I had an idea that it could have been the secondary air pump failing but would that stop the fault when the car is warm, I had read that the air pump only operated for about 90 seconds so the fault should go away after that? I'm not sure like, just what i read. My car seams to have problems idling even when hot. I'll add your item to my list of things to check. Cheers

How did you go about changing the Multiplug or testing it?. I have had the car scanned and I had 17704 and 17705 fault codes, unfortunately I haven't been able to test it again to see if the faults have returned, though the light had came back on. I assumed the 17705 code was due to the split engine breather Y shaped hose on the top r/h side of the engine that I found and changed. The light came back on before I found this split hose. Cheers for the suggestion.

Thanks, I will try that in the morning, Keep the suggestions coming guys and girls.

Hi Guys and Girls. I'm going to do my best and explain the problem with my 2001 Octy VRS. 1. When starting in the cold, the revs start high and drop to about 500rpm and the car sound like a bag of spanners and struggles to stay running. This morning the car actually stalled a couple of times. 2. When hot and running normally the car drives like a dream but when I stop at the lights the revs drop to about 600rpm and again the car struggles to continue running. I had a look at the engine when idling and it looks like its right on the cusp of stalling, :( revving up and down slightly. If I turn off the ignition and turn it back on the car will idle normally. 3. A list of thing I have already done. a. Cleaned the Throttle body. b. Replaced coolant Temp sensor. c. Changed Y piece breather pipe on r/h side top of engine as it had split. Please please help. This is doing my head in. Thanks folks. Phil

Hi Guys and Girls. I have a problem with my care idling when cold. Octavia VRS 2001. The problem started when the car was hot, basically the car was struggling to idle when hot, stopping at the lights the revs would drop for about 10 seconds and then go back to normal. unfortunately a new fault has occurred but the old one has gone away. So when I start the car from cold after about 30 seconds the revs drop to 500 and I cant get them back up again, the car struggles like mad. I have to restart the car again and the problem seems to be ok. Investigating the original fault has prompted me to carry out the following work. 1. Clean the throttle body (I have not yet reset it as I don't have VAG-COM but I read that the ECU does it automatically). 2. Replace the coolant temperature sensor. 3. When replacing the coolant temp sensor I notice the Y shaped hose (Engine breather) had a split so I also replaced that. I thought right that should sort it. It didn't :( Can anyone suggest my next step. Does anyone have a map or drawing of the hoses I should be checking fro splits or a description (Laymans Terms). The care does sound terrible when starting in the cold. I think this is down to the rivets sheering on the secondary air pump (I believe this is a common fault) so I plan to do that when I have time and if the weather gets any better. Any hints/tips would be appreciated and are needed, I'm not afraid to have a go but am not the most informed DIY man. Cheers GUYS. Oh I have had the car scanned by VAG-COM and the codes can be seen on a previous post if anyone is that interested. Phil.

Cheers Martin, but I actually require bars for the hatch back. I have managed to get some off ebay Thanks

Hi Guys and girls I'm after some roof bars, and a roof box actually for my Octavia VRS 2001, yes we are going camping and I will defo be buying some seat covers. I have searched for a wanted section and couldnt find anyone so apologies if I have posted this in the wrong section. Anyway I liver in Merseyside and if anyone fancies getting rid of there items drop me a PM or reply to this post. Cheers Phil

Hi Guys and girls. I have just had a problem with my 2001 Octavia VRS. The engine management light came on the other day, I got it scanned and cleared any faults, went for a test drive and no faults came up, happy days. Despite several registered faults the car has always drove faultless, though I have only owned it for about 5 months. Just been tooting along the motorway and when i got into town the car was really struggling to idle, the revs would drop and the car was vibrating, then the revs would come up slightly, when starting back off I was having to give it more gas than usual. I have posted the fault codes below and I have researched them and I know it could be a number of things from sensors to the MAF or DV. I was wondering if anyone has had the same problem and could pinpoint the issue with the my description and fault codes. Oh and one other thing, every now and then when starting in the cold, the car idles fine but struggles to get going, once I am past 1.5 revs the car drives as normal. Any help appreciated. Cheers Phil Chassis Type: 1U - Skoda Octavia Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,17,19,35,46,56 Address 01 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 06A 906 032 BJ Component: 1.8L R4/5VT 0002 Coding: 11500 Shop #: WSC 00000 TMBER41U218458775 SKZ7Z0A0887108 2 Faults Found: 17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!) P1297 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 17704 - Error in Mapped Cooling System (usually temp Sensor or Thermostat) P1296 - 35-00 - - Readiness: 0000 0000 Address 03 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 1C0 907 379 D Component: ASR FRONT MK60 0103 Coding: 0021505 Shop #: WSC 31480 No fault code found. Address 08 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 1U1 907 044 A Component: CLIMATRONIC C 1.0.0 Coding: 01000 Shop #: WSC 31480 1 Fault Found: 01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71) 37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent Skipping Address 15-Airbags Address 17 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 1U0 920 910 C Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V05 Coding: 03412 Shop #: WSC 28045 TMBER41U218458775 SKZ7Z0A0887108 1 Fault Found: 01039 - Coolant Temperature Sensor (G2) 30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent Address 19 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 6N0 909 901 Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001 Coding: 00006 Shop #: WSC 31480 No fault code found. Address 46 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 1J0 959 799 AH Component: 5H Zentral-SG Komf. 0001 Coding: 04097 Shop #: WSC 31480 1 Fault Found: 00955 - Key 1 09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent Address 56 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 1U0 035 161 C Component: Radio GRO 0001 Coding: 00403 Shop #: WSC 31480 2 Faults Found: 00853 - Loudspeaker(s): Rear 36-00 - Open Circuit 00856 - Radio Antenna 29-00 - Short to Ground End -------------------------------------------------------

I have had my Octavia VRS for a couple of months now, mine is an older car but it still feels like a new car in the way it drives, and I have had new cars before. You will enjoy the turbo in the Summer. Woop Woop

Thanks for the replies, I'll have a look

How do all. Since 2001 I have wanted an Octavia Rs after driving my bosses car. For a number of reasons I have ended up with several different cars. My present car is a Ford Cougar 2.5V6. It's quite quick, but not as you would expect from a 2.5 V6. No matter how I drive it I only get maximum 24-25 MPG. Basically I have to drive slow all the time to save fuel. I have read many reviews on the RS and the fuel consumption is much more reasonable. but the power is still there to have lots of fun, a lot quicker than my current car. I have waited so long for the rs which I will be buying soon. Can anyone tell me what the Police Spec is? and what should I look for when buying my new car. I will be looking at about 2003 around the 60K miles mark. Things like the cam belt and water pump. Any info would be much appreciated. I really don’t want to end up with a dud car as I would be sooooo disappointed and I have big expectations for this car. Thanks to you all and I am jealous of any Rs owners, soon I will join the gang Phil