fj1200a

I have owned this car for five years and taken it from 70k-125k and have loved it for it's smoothness, decent power and reasonable economy. I bought the car fully aware of the scraper ring issue on these engines and chose this car as it has a receipt for £8200 from Skoda for a new short engine @ 68k due to said ring issues. Since buying it I have maintained it myself with a service every 6k to keep it sweet. It has always driven well and gave no issues. Very occasionally (at most once a year) it would not rev cleanly and hesitate on steep long climbs. Plugged in the diagnostic and no codes and then the hesitancy would disappear for no reason - this started occurring from when I got first bought it. So I then started treating it as a quirk of the engine as it ran perfect 99%of the time and never used any fluids. However in the last 5k miles it has become a constant issue, it stopped boosting and came up with a P0299 underboost code. Put a new N75 valve on it hoping it was not a worn wastegate issue on the turbo and thankfully that sorted it. Now it would boost properly again, would start easily and idle perfectly from hot and cold. Classic signs of a faulty pcv system were apparent when removing the dipstick at idle would cause it to run off a cylinder and run really rough. In addition when accelerating it would be hesitant. Again no codes being shown. So I replaced the coil packs and plugs(even though I had changed both10k ago) and this made little difference. Replaced the rocker cover part of the PCV hoping this would be the solution but again no fix. I have noted that the PCV hose that goes down the side of the block is damp with oil but am unable to establish where it is coming from. Any thoughts or pointers would be much appreciated as my wife is very keen to get shot but I know that with the current issue I would get very little for it if I had to sell it but more importantly I know it is to good a car to let go of.

Yes definitely got it right as I did the Haldex last week and cleaned strainer on the pump. Would be great to get clarification on exact amount needed for diff.

Drained my rear diff last night, first after 96k - about 900ml came out so rellac d with same, now there is a bit more noise and now see in other threads it should be about 1500ml - anyone the wiser?

My current Scout rear bumper has a black sprayed resin type coating but with 5 years of use has various marks and scores. In order to replace this eyesore I purchased a silver colour plastic bumper to cover this. However the bumper is about 20mm too short and it means the original black coating still shows on either side. I would appreciate if any one can advise on how to remove the original black coating.

Wife has a 1.8tsi Scout that have been mapped to 210 horse and 265ftlb and is that rare thing - one that doesn't drink oil. I believe a tfsi version was built for other markets. Cheers Burnzy for the advice on the rocker cover hopefully now sorted

Cheers Burnzy for the input will give it another go - a few of the T30's are chewed so either it has been overtorqued in the past and warped the cover or I'm a numpty 😜

Not badmouthing DS at all - it came in a plastic bag with no markings. Would like to know what the tightening sequence and torque is to get it 100 percent.

I have a Scout with a BMM engine that is leaking like a sieve from the rocker cover having already replaced the gasket from DarkSide Developments. Don't know if it was poor quality gasket or I did not get tightening sequence right. So have bought a genuine one and will try again as I am currently loosing a lot of oil from it - any pointers or advice would be much appreciated

2007 diesel Scout with Haldex II Got this motor recently with 148k on it and it proves that this period was the peak period for Skoda build quality and durability. Drives really tight and does 39mpg so happy with this. I have done a full transmission fluid change, with gearbox, both diffs and Haldex all changed. However I cannot remove the Haldex Filter cover as it seems to have welded itself to the casing. Have tried spraying WD40 4 days in a row and with a 4 foot breaker it does not want to move (24mm socket is now starting to slip) Is it now time to use Plusgas, heatgun and a chisel or is there another way to avoid that butchery?

Price?

Got a 2010 1.8tsi Scout. Have changed the fluids on the Haldex, rear diff and gearbox but am having difficulty finding the fill point for the front PTU (front diff/power transfer unit) Any pointers would be appreciated.

Pm'd Sarge

Absolutely stunning car for the money!!!!

Evening mate, I would be grateful if you could answer some questions. Can you confirm the situation with the clutch and flywheel - any knocking, rattle etc? How does the air con blow? If your fil was keeping it what would he do to it? What condition is the body and paint in? I cannot quite see from the records - when was the belt and pump last done? Any strange noises or rattles from the turbo? Genuinely interested in the right car and would appreciate your honesty. Thanks, Murrau

I have a 1.9tdi 4x4 with the same set up as the op - when I bought the car two years ago the previous owner commented on how he had just spent over £980 for a Haldex controller to be fitted by the local Skoda dealer when his esp light came on. However it transpired it was not the controller but the Teves unit, the dealer spun him a story that the two were connected so he needed to spend another £600 on the full abs block. Understandably he was seriously peed off and found a local mechanic who has proper engineering skills and understanding who confirmed it was an issue with the abs pump, fitted the repair kit for £300 and the car has been great since. To add insult to injury the Skoda dealer had serviced the car from new and when I bought it at 80k they had never done a Haldex oil change even though they had serviced 5 times.