dave_knight

Sounds like a bit of a money spinner for the dealership for little/no benefit to the customer. Given that you are booking in for your first service, which means your mileage is going to be less than 20K, probably even less than that, the question to ask would be why does such a new car with so little mileage need a flush? If the car was 10+ years with 100K on the clock and a patchy service history then yes, flush could be a good idea, otherwise no. Mine is a 1.6TDI coming up to 34K and I have no plans to flush.

Here is what I do when I update the maps in my Amundsen Note: First time I did any updates I copied all the files from the SD card onto the hard-drive of my computer to backup just incase anything went wrong 1) Download the .zip file from the skoda website, look on your Amundsen to see which version you have to download the same 2) Remove the skoda SD card from the Amundsen unit (look in glove box) and load it into your computer to see the folder structure 3) Once the download has completed, unzip the files to hard drive, in Windows 10 just right click on the .ZIP and select "Extract All" and follow the prompt 4) Format the SD card making sure it is FAT32 4) Copy the folder and all sub-folders to the skoda SD card, make sure you copy the same folders as seen in step #2 as the unzip at step #3 may put then into another subfolder 5) Put it back in the Amundsen and away you go! Things to note: 1) You can *only* use the skoda SD card that came in the car, a standard SD card does not work (I tried, it fails to find the map), skoda do this to stop piracy 2) When you first put the updates maps back into the car it will display a 'locating navigation data' message, this can seem to appear for a while (10+ seconds) so be patient 3) If something goes wrong you can format the card again and copy the old version of the maps back (see notes above) 4) You may need 48GB+ disk space to do this successfully (16GB backup, 16GB zip download, 16GB unzip) Hope this helps and I have done three upgrades now in the 18 months I have had my car with no issues. 😀

Before I swapped the battery out in mine I did test the voltage and new CR2032 showed just over 3v, the old one I was swapping out read 2.7v which dropped even further then I load tested it with a 10Kohm resistor to simulate the 200uA that it is rated for in the datasets. So a flat battery was definitely the cause of me.

Does your car have adblue? Could it be the little part you need to open/re-fill the adblue system? Sorry my car does not have adblue so cannot check and confirm.

From the description that you give and what mine does it sounds like you may have a fault in the system somewhere which should be covered under the warranty. I have noticed on mine that the mirrors do seem to demist at different rates (passenger seems quicker) however both do demist with no issues. Same for the folding, on mine they fold in no issues and both at the same rate. Given that the de-mist and mirror fold are on the same control it could be the fault lies here? Describe the symptoms and how to re-produce and let the garage fault find, a good franchised dealer will quickly locate the fault and be able to fix. Hope this helps?

Yes it could be as when the keyfob battery is running down it is not able to generate the same RF signal strength which means the range is reduced. The challenge for me was that I am normally quite close to the car when I try and unlock it so would have generally have been within the 3m range most of the time I activating the keyfob so I did not notice any range reduction as a warning. You are correct that the keyfob is designed to accept a CR2025 and that was what I found in mine when I remove the back. However not having a CR2025 to hand and knowing what the CR2032 is electrically compatible with the CR2025 (so would not blow up the keyfob, it is the same voltage just a higher mAh capacity rating) I put one of these into my keyfob as I read in another VW forum that it would physically fit. You are right that the 2032 is 0.7mm thicker than the 2025 so it fits into the space but does not 'latch' under the little notch in the keyfob which means that in order to secure the battery into keyfob you actually need to put the back on and the pressure fit of this keeps the battery in place! This works because the -ve contact is in the middle under the cell and the +ve contacts are both at one end, so the battery actually makes electrical contact on only half of the cell and the 'notch' only serves to physically hold the battery in place before the back is put into place … in effect belt and braces. The drawback of this means that if you drop the keyfob and the back pops off (you would probably have to drop it quite hard as the back is on pretty firm) then the CR2032 could go flying which may prove challenging to find! Hope this makes sense?

Unlocked my 18 plate Karoq SEL via the remote control this morning and drove for 15 minutes to my destination, parked up and jumped out, then tried to lock the car on the keyfob … *nothing* happened … no little red led on the keyfob flashing, no clicking of locks and folding mirrors, nothing. KESSY also not working so could not actually lock the car …. created a bit of a heart stopping moment for a while there! Fortunately I was able to start the car by pushing the keyfob against the start/stop button so got home fine and once the battery was changed for a new one (CR2032 fitted with some encouragement) everything worked like it should so no trip needed to the dealer for a warranty claim on the keyfob which was good! Has anybody else experience the battery in their keyfob just failing with no warning, no messages/symbols on the dashboard and being stuck not being able to lock/unlock their car?

Stopping: If I am braking gently, e.g. stopping at traffic lights then it can sometime start/stop when my speed is very low, probably around the 6-7 mph you observe in the loan car, but not actually checked! If I come to a stop quicker then it does not start/stop until I am actually stationary and the auto-hold is on. My daily commute is over 70 miles so the start/stop does its thing pretty much every time I stop which can be a little tiresome if I am in slow moving traffic with brief points of longer driving, e.g. long queue at traffic lights where everybody moves forwards 200 yards at a time! The really annoying part is when reversing into a packing space as the stop/start cuts in as I line the car up for the reverse into a parking space and move the gear selector through "N" to "R", this just wastes time and annoys me so when parking I tend to switch of the start/stop. Starting: Always when I touch the accelerator or flick the wheel, or have stopped for too long with the air-con on and the cabin temperature gets too hot/too cold. Not noticed it re-starting when the car in front moves off like pa_ko's car does, maybe they have different options or I am too quick on the accelerator! Hope this helps?

This sounds like (no pun intended) like a fault with the Starter Motor, my 1.6 TDI DSG has never had these sort of issues with starting in the 1Yr and 20K miles I have owned it. Suggest you take it back to the dealer, complain and get them look at the problem. The auto start-stop is a different topic entirely, my experiences: The auto-start stop is a bit slow to re-engage, when waiting at junctions I tend to override it and just leave the engine idling. At traffic lights I tend to 'flick' the wheel when the lights change to amber so that by time they are green the engine is started and ready to go. Remember in the SEL you will have auto-hold, so there will always be a bit of a delay when you accelerate as the DSG works out the direction of travel and overcomes the inertia required to dis-engage the auto-hold. You also have to deal with the lag on the 1.6 TDI. So my advice if you want to try and pull out quickly from a junction is to switch off the start-stop, switch off the auto-hold, put the DSG box into "S" and hold the car on the foot brake. When you take your foot off the brake to start pulling out the car will begin to creep and in sports mode the acceleration will pickup quickly meaning you should be able to pull out safely. Hope this helps.

Now I have the 1.6 TDI so have torque on my side and I agree with the conclusion in the it is not possible to select which gear to move off in with the DSG box as it will always return to 1 when you stop. However I wonder whether the issue of loosing grip when starting off could be alleviated by: - Putting the car in "M" - Wwitching off the auto-hold - Releasing the foot brake slowly and use the "creep" mode of the DSG to pull off with the engine at idle (the torque of the 1.6 TDI should mean the Karoq does not stall/ECU picks up the revs to stop stalling) - Once you are moving more than a few miles an hour flick it back into "D" and accelerate gently, which would be helped if the car was in "Eco" mode as well? It snowed in my part of blighty last week, but never got a chance to test this theory as by time I got on the roads the snow had melted ... shame will have to wait for the next set of snow to test my theory!

I have just bought a kit that has a space saver tyre with jack, wrench and foam blocks and the bit that screws it to the floor pan in the boot and it seems to work really well. The tyre is a T125/70 R18 and it fits snuggly under the boot floor (I have a 2WD) and there is even a little cap that fits over the screw that holds the wheel down to support the boot floor The kit is an offical skoda kit as it came in a skoda branded box and was from my local main dealer. (sorry for poor quality of the picture, it is dark now and the flash on my phone is a bit wonky!)

My Karoq is pre WLTP however with regard to the mode selection the engine and DSG box revert back to "Normal" each time the ignition is switched on So whilst it may say "Sports" for "Normal" or even "Eco" on the infotainment unit the engine and gearbox are not .... slightly confusing an probably a 'feature' of the ECU and mechatronics in the DSG. Here is how I use the modes in my car Normal: round town, nothing special driving just getting from A-B. Sports: Country lanes. Just fun to drive with great acceleration and tight steering Eco: Motorway or A-roads. You will also notice that if you lift off the accelerator in this mode both of the DSG clutches disengage and the engine returns to idle. This is great for long gentle downhill roads as the mpg goes through the roof when you are doing 60mph+ with the engine idling at 750 rpm! Remember that the modes also affect the steering and air conditioning and if you have the right option pack fitted (not as standard on the SEL) the ride as well (i.e. mode 'Comfort') I find the biggest impact on MPG is the right foot and how hard I push down the accelerator and the aircon. The majority of my daily commute is motorway so sitting at 65mph with cruise control on the air con is the only real thing I can do to influence the mpg.

Yeap, my 1.6 TDI DSG seems to return 5-7mpg less than the computer is telling me. I also monitor the true mpg calculated from fuel used over distance travelled based on receipts and a calculator! I have just put this down to over optimistic software not being able to calculate the mpg correctly or some weird software algorithm that seem to ignore part of the journey. Also remember that the mpg quote in the brochure is completely over optimistic and seldom represents real world driving.

Depending on local laws it may not be legal to fit LED headlights to a car that has standard halogen bulbs from the factory, I notice you are in Belgium so best to check. My Karoq has LED headlights however the rear indicators and reverse lights are bulbs and whilst it is possible to get (from chinese sellers) after market LED replacements I could not assertain whether these LED replacement were actually road legal in the UK, which could prove interesting in three years time when the MOT comes long or I have to make an insurance claim! Hope this helps?

Yeap, I am afraid you have discovered a 'feature' of the combination of the auto Start-Stop and a DSG box! My Karoq is the 1.6TDI version so when I stop at traffic lights and the auto-start stop kicks in then I get the added delay of the diesel picking up from idle enough to overcome the auto-hold and move the car, which adds what seems like an eternity. So I end up paying more attention to the traffic lights so that when they change from red to amber I tap the accelerator, to re-start the engine which means that by time the car actually moves the lights are green! Things get even more fun when the DPF is re-generating as the auto-start stop does not kick in, however because the engine is idling faster there is more of a snatch (or kick as you put it) as the auto hold releases and the car pulls away. Hope this helps?