Elcroato

I would like to add that I installed a Tsudo turbo back exhaust. It was made for a Jetta but it fits almost perfectly. It cost me only 360 dollars with shipping btw.

Andy, what exactly did they have to do to get it to fit? Jaymd, if the end pipe is just shorter that's okay, I'm not after aesthetics. Now if the mounting is different that may be an issue.

I should add, I have a 2001 1.8T. I'm looking at these systems: GermanAutoParts.com

I don't see why not, but wanted your input.

I've also begun to seriously modify my 1.8T Skoda. Right now I'm looking at an exhaust system. Do you know, or anyone else, if the ones made for the mkIV Jetta fit? btw, a few years back I bought a Forge DV and it failed after about 2 years. The piston would stick upon initiation of acceleration and deceleration. I put in a stock Audi TT DV and even with my stage II Revo tuning it hasn't failed in about a year now.

Sounds like a good idea. Fortunately I won't need to pursue this problem further as I figured out what was wrong! The "weighted" part on top of the tranny(O2J) was rubbing against a huge wire bundle that ran from underneath the battery to connectors under the intake manifold. One wire in the bundle was exposed from the constant friction. I patched the exposed wire and moved the bundle. The short is gone! I'm so happy I fixed this. I can enjoy my beloved underestimated Skoda once again! Thank you for your replies Rwbaldin and everyone else as well.

The Climatronic works just fine as well as the flap motor, until I blow the fuse.

hmm, I'll look if the gear box is touching some cables while in fifth. Great suggestion. If that's not it then how does the car know it's in fifth? Is there some sensor in the shift linkage? What did you mean by "bad flap motor"?

Thanks for the responses. I was away, hence the late reply. I tried taking out the battery and checking the contacts as well as the grounds beneath it. No luck. I changed my water pump at 100K km. Oil level and coolant are good. As I said, the temperature spiked at 110C at idle after this malady started which had me worried. The temp gauge needle hasn't risen past the mid-point since. This might be because every time I blow the ominous fuse #5(7.5A) I swap it out right way. I've blown about 30 fuses already; testing. I have discovered that the car doesn't even have to be moving today. All I have to do is shift into 5th gear (not even letting out the clutch) and BOOM. This is with the engine off too mind you.

I went through the fuses again today and it turns out it was a fuse! Fuse No.5.(7.5A). I replaced it and cleared the codes and everything ran well. However upon further testing it would blow everytime I'd go WOT and above 5K RPM. I also drove over lots of potholes to see if that would cause it to blow and it didn't. So what could cause that circuit to overload when driving fast?

Hello, I was beating the crap out of my 1.8T, remapped with Revo StgII, when I noticed the RPMs would continue to climb a bit after shifting. I then noticed the AC was dead. I pulled over and ran a VAG-COM diagnostic. I have three sensor faults. Brake light switch faulty, oil pressure switch faulty, ambient temp sensor faulty. While testing, the coolant temp went up to 110C, the needle was 3 quarters over. The cooling fans kicked in at that point and lowered the temp back down to around 100C. My Climatronic has no power. I cycled the ignition. I reset the codes. Still no power. I tried disconnecting my MAF sensor and that fixed the RPM issues. The brake lights work fine. The fuses are good. Help!!!!!!! I live in Sicily and have no one that can understand me here. Codes: 00562, 00667

Hello, I was beating the crap out of my 1.8T, remapped with Revo StgII, when I noticed the RPMs would continue to climb a bit after shifting. I then noticed the AC was dead. I pulled over and ran a VAG-COM diagnostic. I have three sensor faults. Brake light switch faulty, oil pressure switch faulty, ambient temp sensor faulty. While testing, the coolant temp went up to 110C, the needle was 3 quarters over. The cooling fans kicked in at that point and lowered the temp back down to around 100C. My Climatronic has no power. I cycled the ignition. I reset the codes. Still no power. I tried disconnecting my MAF sensor and that fixed the RPM issues. The brake lights work fine. The fuses are good. Help!!!!!!! I live in Sicily and have no one that can understand me here. Codes: 00562, 00667

I was just looking through the 1.8T FAQs and I noticed that the AUQ (vRS) engine has a different "(rubber/seal pipe)" on the charge pipe. My AUM engine was leaking profusely at the o-ring which joins the hose section to the metal pipe. Does anyone know if that AUQ upgrade addresses this problem? And if so could I get a part no. Thank you Regards

What do you mean by "nipping up"? Regards

I'm not a mechanic, but I am mechanically inclined. Regards

Ross, Though it may be hard to tell from the sound clip, what other maladies could be causing these three distinct noises that I'd like to get rid of 1. the choppy idle 2. The unbalanced sound of the engine,eg. Like a spinning warped plate. 3. The constant high pitch metallic sound. Regards, Mark

Thank you for the responses. There might be a slight power loss. Power delivery doesn't seem that smooth. I do have a boost gauge, however, and it reads 7PSI at WOT. I guess it could be the coil packs, why hasn't Skoda issued a recall for them? It could be a vacuum leak as well I think, my boost gauge doesn't have increments for vacuum measurement, but judging by the needles position at idle I'd guess 10Hg/mm BTW, VRStu, this may sound stupid, but what's a PD engine. :confused: It's kind of early, sorry. Regards

It's a 1.8T. I can't believe I left that out. :confused:

Hi everyone, My engine sound oscillates strongly in pitch and it's getting worse. I recorded it next to the washer fluid resevoir. Does anyone have an idea what could be causing this? Any help would be appreciated. Regards http://home.t-online.de/home/520004783779-0001/engine.wmv I forgot to mention that during the clip I revved to 2000 and 1500 rpms respectively.

hello all I came across some information on the Vortex which is intriguing, according to many of the users 1.8 turbo engines aren't grounded well, resulting in an inefficient electrical circuit, causing loss of power and other electrical maladies. It is easy to remedy though, using a "grounding kit" or some custom setup. It is supposedly possible to gain up to 5hp like this. I find that rather hard to believe :shocked: , but would welcome the extra power. Do any of you know about this and do you have any experience with it. Regards

Yeah, that's what i did. But in the process I broke my coilpack. It seemed to be bent a little and i tried to straighten it out. SNAP! ARgh@@#*&!

Hello, Just wondering about checking ones sparkplugs. Is it ok to take one out and put it back in without changing the washer? If so, do i merely have to torque it more on reinsertion? regards Mark

Yeah, mine does the same thing, since it has been new. I always accepted it as normal. If it turns out to be something wrong, please post. regards Mark

Hello, I have a 1.8T l&k. The clutch is creaking. It's only audible from the outside, but i can feel a slight inconsistent resistance when depressing and releasing the clutch. Any ideas as to what the problem could be? Any help would be appreciated.