Gunswick

my 2002 TDi is on 144k now which i thought was old lol !!! That's nothing really for this cars!

(1) Whats the best way to find the leak for the hoses? Does anyone have a picture of the hoses (or can describe where to look for them) so that I can check if they are split / disconnected etc. (2) With the sticky vanes, I need to remove the turbo to clean it obviously. I think you can get the turbo out from above the engine bay IF you remove the EGR/anti shudder valve and the inlet manifold? Is this correct? As I need to clean both those items it makes sense to remove and clean the turbo at the same time, as even if it doesn't need cleaned now (which I find unlikely!) then it will soon. (3) Could a faulty MAF or CTS be causing these issues or is it only really broken hose and/or sticky vanes? (4) Also, what is the reason that the turbo playing up would make the ASR warning light come on? What does this normally indicate? I think I read on here somewhere that MAF issues can cause that light to come on for some weird reason, is that correct? Many thanks!

I have a 2002 110 TDi Octavia mk1 L&K which has done 144k miles. Problems: + If I accelerate slowly through the rev range, between 1500-2000 rpm the boost will turn on and off strongly, making the car feel like it is going backwards a few feet. + If I accerlate more quickly, the on/off feeling is still there but it goes away - it also goes away if I lift off the throttle (but makes a scraping/hollow metal sound when I do). + It does this in all gears but most notable in gears 2,3,4. + It will frequently go into limp mode at 2000rpm if cold, or sometimes up nearer 3000rpm if warm (driven for say 30 minutes previously). + The turbo always starts off working, it has always been operational, it just goes into limp mode if I push it too much above 2000rpm. + These above issues are worse going up hills. + The ASR light has started coming on too, often at the same time as this jerking on/off activity. + I only have Android Torque app with a bluetooth ELM32 code reader. It reports no logged fault codes in the ECU. + Torque shows me that my boost in PSI is going up to 22 just before it goes into limp mode. + Slightly subjective but the turbo seems to spool up better on very wet / damp days. Dry days it jerks much more. Other info: + The MAF and CTS have not been changed as far as I am aware (nor any turbo hoses/pipes have been changed). + I know that the EGR and inlet manifold are very dirty. I often get the EGR valve stuck shut after short journeys and need to manually push the solenoid rod to allow the car to restart. + The fuel and air filter have recently been changed. Given the behaviour above, what is the most likely cause for the turbo to turn off so frequently? (I can get it to turn off on almost every journey) Any help very very much appreciated

I've had a little bump and knocked off and cracked in half the driver's side headlight washer (the big wart thing on the front bumper!) (2002 Mk1 Octavia) So I need a replacement piece of trim (in silver) and the washer jet that is inside it. So I need: 1) the part number(s) for that if possible and price if known (I'll probably try a scrap yard too - so any tips on removing the headlight washer trim/jet much appreciated also!) and 2) how to fit the new one? I guess it just clips into place, so you just press it into the hole in the bumper after connecting the washer tubes to the jet? or is it harder than that? Cheers guys!

FOLLOW UP UPDATE: I phoned my local dealer who were very helpful. The wiper relay is the big brown one pictured, 603. 100%. With the electromagnetic coil inside. After removing the linkage and the wiper motor from under the windscreen, I drove to Skoda who allowed me free of charge to go and plug in a brand new relay and a brand new wiper motor. It was the brown relay which was broken. As soon as I plugged in the new one, it all worked perfectly again. Great to be fixed, though slightly long winded way to find out by having to remove the linkage and the motor, but at least it is fixed! Thanks for all the help, I hope this thread helps someone else. Definately start by trying to assess if the relay is duff as it is the easy bit to get to (try a brand new one and see if the problem is fixed). Then try removing the linkage and motor (they are attached) and trial and error replacing bits.

excellent, thanks mbames. I have had the relay out and it looks fine. Can I confirm which relay it is though? I opened up and checked both the Large Black 387 one, which was just a circuit board inside really. It seemed fine. I then opened up the Large Brown *603, which had a large electromagnet coil inside. Again everything seemed fine, no drama going on! So which one is actually the front wiper relay? I then removed the linkage and the wiper motor. Even with the linkage removed fully from the car, the motor would NOT turn at all (or make any noise etc). So I guess I can eliminate the linkage as the problem. So it must surely be the relay or the motor? How can I test further to pin this down?

Really need some guidance on this problem guys! 2002 Octavia. The front wipers only have stopped working. This is on all slow speeds, intermediate and fast setting. They are parked 100% normally at the bottom of the windscreen. They did not slow down, judder or behave abnormally at all. + All other buttons / functions work 100% on the wiper stalk (rear wiper, all washer jets, trip computer). Heres the important bit: + If I leave the stalk pushed up, attempting to put the front wipers on (say in the fast position), after about 25 minutes, the wipers will suddenly kick into life and work 100% normally again! + All the speeds work, I can start and stop the wipers for minutes at a time and use them 100% as normal. + If I don't use them for say 20 minutes+, then they stop working again! Again, if I leave the wiper stalk in the "On" position, then they will turn on again after a few minutes. + It's almost as if they are frozen in position or something and after 20 minutes of pushing, the wipers move! + The wipers cannot be "helped" to move if they are stuck by me pushing the wiper blade arms upwards. 1) Which fuse numbers cover the front wipers? 2) I will check the large black 377 relay above the pedals tomorrow, give it a clean and inspect them. 3) Could it be the linkage and/or the motor (baring in mind the behaviour I have described above)? 4) What else could it be? Many many thanks in advance!

my mechanic who did my cambelt keeps just saying nah it wont be the fuel pump timing, fobbing me off. blatently that though! what problems could this cause, running a car long term with slightly retarded timing on the startups?

I have changed the glow plugs and still have the slow, white smokey cold starts. I have not yet checked the glow plug relays and fuse, where are they (please be as accurate as you can be!) I have drained the fuel filter as well. Where precisely is the CTS (a picture would be awesome!)? Any other suggestions?

mine has only done 112,000 miles though! i drained the fuel filter (no water really) and obviously there is no difference. I get 55mpg on a run, its just cold starts that are rough, once running the car is fine (or on hot starts its fine too). i suspect a sticky egr valve at startup, causing a lack of air in the engine, leading to unburnt fuel and white smoke. my EGR had gummed up to the point that the car would not start in May, but the AA chap removed and cleaned it "choke & carb cleaner". At 200,000+ miles it probably looks like a dog's dinner! Either clean it and the pipes coming to and from and the intake manifold just after it. A garage should charge about 2 hours labour tops. or the glowplugs are not receiving power, either a faulty relay or something... it taked my car 3-5 seconds to start. it sounds almost like its firing up one cylinder at a time. or the injection pump timing could be out. another option is that the battery is knackered, meaning that the car does not start with its full force and splutters into life, even though there is enough power to listen to the radio etc with the engine off. check the battery voltage...

no worries mate

i have this problem too: http://briskoda.net/octavia-i/white-smoke-difficulty-starting-cold/149090/ exactly the same problem as the OP. its ONLY when cold (i.e. car not run for 5 hours). If you stop the car even 20 seconds after the first smokey startup, it then starts instantly with no problem. not sure if that helps narrow the issue.

search my username, i did a thread on this with pictures and an explanation of how to fix it.

the cable has tension if that is what you mean? the cable definately releases ok. its the orange lever that seems to be playing up. but it does move freely and does allow the bonnet further up by moving it sideways. the bonnet just doesnt quite clear the catch. i will try moving the bonnet / orange lever with a screwdriver to see if i can jiggle it free. does anyone have any photos of the bonnet catch, so i can get a better idea of how it works?

On my 2002 Skoda Octavia mk1. Any help appreciated! The bonnet release catch works fine, there is a normal clunk and normal tension in the cable. The bonnet then lifts as normal an inch, the orange release lever moves to the side as normal to allow the bonnet up. the bonnet then lifts up another 2 inches (so now some 3 inches up in total). but then it gets stuck. the bonnet just wont actually open or lift up any more, like its being blocked by something in the release mechanism. the orange lever moves a normal distance, the catch does release initially, but not at the very top of the movement. the bonnet can lock, with a firm palm push down. what could be blocking it from opening at the last moment?!

Mike, did you fix this? I am having this exact problem right now! its weird. the bonnet gets to its very highest point, but is blocked by something in the lock mechanism, even though the orange handle moves freely. its odd!

my wife had the exact same problem yesterday. the first time it had ever showed up. she restarted the car (under my instruction) and went round the car park and the fault did not come back, so she drove home for an hour with no re-occuring fault. she said the car seemed fine, other than the flashing and engine workshop message! most odd! car is a 110bhp TDi octavia hatchback 2002 reg.

re: cambelt, if the timing was out i would have likely have had starting issues in January / February rather than May onwards when the weather is warmer. So, I assume timing is ok. glow plugs should show a warning light shouldnt they? And also, im not sure how much they even do anything in summer, but as I dont know when they were changed they could be duff. When my EGR valve was stuck shut (i.e. no air getting into the car) a month ago, the AA guy removed and cleaned it with carb cleaner, it was fine for 2 weeks, but then started with the smokey difficult start ups. He checked the CTS on his laptop with the car running and he said the coolant temp sensor was working fine, so unless it broke this month, it should be fine.

cambelt was done in January and I had no problems or smoke etc starting since then until recently (May). So I think the timing is OK. I only have the 3rd party VAGCOM so I cannot check it. Air and fuel filter were changed in September by the previous owner. I spoke to the garage that did it and they said it was a normal service, but couldnt really be definitive on what was done. Oil and filter change was done then and again this week by me. Glow plugs I have no idea if or when they have been changed. There could be water in the fuel filter I guess - I will check. What is the CTS? Sorry, google just gives me cadilacs lol The hesitation is only in starting, after 5 seconds everything is as normal, though there is a small cloud of smoke that then dissipates. It is literally the turning over and starting that is funny, so I wonder about the timing as I know that the ECU dynamicly alters the timing after a couple of seconds, but at start up it is fixed manually on the pump.

would the glow plugs even be needed in summer? the glow plug light comes on for say 1 second and pops off again. I will get the EGR and inlet manifold removed and cleaned and see if it improves, I hope so!

Octavia mk1 (2002) TDi 110bhp, which if the engine is cold (ie. car not used for say 6+ hours) will be hard to start (ie. choke / splutter into life) and produce a fair amount of white smoke (no black or blue, just white). if the engine is hot, then it starts instantly with no problems at all, all healthy (no hesitation, no smoke). so whats going on? I know that the EGR valve about 3 weeks ago was sticking shut and preventing the engine starting at all, whilst sounding like the engine had no compression. The AA man removed the EGR valve and cleaned it with carb cleaner, removing tons of black sludge. Now though, it does start, just with difficulty, where as the time it wouldnt start, the EGR valve just got stuck one day after being fine for 110k miles! So the behaviour now is different from before. Is this the same sticky/dirty EGR issue again? The behaviour seems different and I'm not so sure. Thanks

is it OK to soak the EGR valve in carb cleaner over night to REALLY clean it? or will that mess up the rubber and the valve mechanism?

yeah thats what i mean, its the valve underneath the EGR that gets gunked up with oil/carbon sludge and stops the valve opening nicely at startup.

i am having starting issues from a dirty Throttle Body (TB). It has already had a relatively quick clean with some carb cleaner and tissue (TB removed from the car by the AA man, cleaned and refitted). 2 weeks later, the issues have returned, so it obviously needs a really good clean. Is it OK to soak the TB overnight in a bucket of carb cleaner? Obviously, the electrical leads will be removed and not soaked, but will the rubber inside the TB survive the carb cleaner unharmed?

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