vrsia

Hello, could you give me price and availability on some interior bits please (My heavy hands have broken some plastic bits) Passenger front door handle including window switch Passenger rear door tweeter speaker plastic Glove box light Drivers side door lock/latch Cheers

Hello I have a Fabia VRS with a superchip and it sounds like the flywheel is starting to go and I do about 500 miles a week in it. Having the superchip I was looking at the uprated clutches (I know it's not a massive power increase but it's an increase all the same) and they have an option of having a single mass flywheel. Has anyone had any problems with these in regards to any extra noise or vibrations? Cheers

Dirty Fabia Er whoops

They red flagged the Ginetta G50 race because two of them had a massive crash really nasty with both of them going to hospital, then a clio when off and hit the wall and then the ginetta juniors had a three car crash

I thought it had to be comething more complicated then just a bog standard switch. I take it when the door latch is operated it flicks a micro switch which tells the control unit to bring on the courtesy light. When you say it's a pain to fix can you re-solder the PCB or is it a new unit??? It use to happen to my MK4 golf too and I know the unit you mean Thanks again

This may sound stupid but when I open my drivers door sometimes the car doesn't recognize the drives door is open e.g. courtesy light not on when door opened after driving and no interior lights. So what tells the ECU that the door is open?? All others work ok Thanks

120nm done up by an 8 year old girl or by me is still 120nm copper slip helps prevent galvanic corrosion the chemical reaction between the alloy wheel and the cast hub

Do NOT get any on your bolts, you'll find they will work loose with copper slip on the threads.

your system may have lost gas which the low pressure sensor has detected and could have turned the system off. Those cans may work but their not ideal. When done properly the machine will suck out the old gas recycle it, put a vacuum on the system do a leak test which will give an indication that there is a problem i.e. condensor or pipe leak, if it's ok put the right amount of gas back in and should top up with some PAG oil which is the oil in the system to keep the pump lubricated (something the can won't do). This should be done with the machine plugged into the High and low pressure ports, the can will only plug into one.

I'm asking this for just for peoples opinions: Why will it make a difference on the road if the car has been chipped or not? If you are trying to stop a vRS weighing X at 70 mph, what difference does it make if I have 130 BHP or 170BHP??

Mine was registered on 29 Sep 03

Brakes no matter what they are will have an optimum braking temperature as said before the 312mm brakes will be better for track use as they have more area to absorb and disapate the heat but for everyday use I can't see the big fuss. I would like (Under the right conditions) to see a brake test from 70 - 0 against distance of the two setups

I've not driven a vRS with 312mm brakes but I do find the standard by no means dangerous. What I would like to know though before putting 312mm brakes on a car is some facts. What is a good operating temperature for the standard brakes and what temperatures do they produce? The same for the 312mm brakes. Is there any increase in braking effort on a brake roller tester? Does the master cylinder for the 312mm brakes have a different bore size and different reservoir capacity

I have one on mine and I bought it from them works fine Tip I found the easiest way to remove the radio was to take the trim off either side of the HU (Torx top and bottom under the other trims) then get an Allen key and push the clips in (located by where the slots are in the HU) on the side of the HU. If you want I'll take some pics for you

Have the Air Con system serviced, have a leak test done (Should be done as part of the service) and when they replace the gas ensure they add some extra PAG oil to the system