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I don't have much luck with 4G where I park the car. It works fine most of the time but it seems erratic and slow. I live in a bit of a radio deadspot - even to get FM I sometimes have to put the receiver near the window. WiFi is much quicker than 4G in the house. D

Yep, they are what made me ask the question There is a lot of confusion out there about the cruise control - and this comes from dealers, users & Skoda UK. Looking at the final post in the Octavia forum confirms this I have not seen any post on the forum from a user that has successfully been to a dealer, bought the bits, fitted them themself and then coded the system. I'm hoping I am wrong and have missed something. I would like it to be as straightforward as my 1Z3 was but the more I look, the more likely it is that it has to go to a dealer. Reading the forum, going to a dealer doesn't guarantee that you will get the cruise control fitted and working correctly (even if the dealer says they can do it). We're 5 years into this build version, I would have thought that the process would have been ironed out by now but it doesn't look like it. D

Are you able to surf OK from your mobile device ? When I have this problem, it's usually because my tablet has dropped the WiFi connection. I have to park the car closer to the house to get a reliable connection D

After 9 years and 170000 miles I finally got rid of my 1Z3 Octavia. It was still on its original clutch and coming up to a cam belt change etc. I figured that doing all the work it required would be more than the car was worth. I am sorry to see it go because it was such a brilliant car that has served me well and never really let me down. I have always maintained it was the best car I have ever owned. I looked at an A4 for replacement but just didn't feel comfortable on the test drives. Then I found a four year old Octavia in pristine condition with 22000 miles on the clock for a good price so it was a no brainer really :-) It's a 2.0 Tdi Cr Se 5 door hatchback so pretty standard. The only down side is that it doesn't have carpets or a cruise control. I've sorted the carpets :-) I though the cruise control would be a simple job too - I fitted cruise to my previos one and it was pretty painless. I have now found out that it is not as straightforward with the 2014 model I have. Is there a definite answer to the cruise control problem ? Is it a DIY fit and recode job or is it better left to the dealer ? The car has a standard steering wheel, no buttons other than the horn. Regards, D

Answering my own question - They aren't. I contacted a few sellers and they all came back and said it wouldn't fit. Anybody able to shed light on the £30 difference in price ? I've dismantled, cleaned and greased the old one. Hopefully, it will outlast the car. Main learning outcome - the tailgate neets to be shut when testing it. If it's open, it won't wipe. D

Does anybody know if the rear wiper motor off a MKI Octavia works correctly on the MKII ? Part numbers for them are 1U9 955 711 and 1Z5 955 711 respectively. The 1U9 is more readily available and significantly cheaper than the 1Z5 model. The fixing bolt spacings are identical as is the through spindle washer and fitting but there could be issues with the length of the spindle and the wipe angle. Regards, D

Does the rear screen wash work ? There's only one pump. It rotates in one direction to pump to the front and the opposite direction to pump to the back. The direction is controlled by relays. It could be a relay that has gone. Regards, D

I fixed it today. It's been sat on the drive for the last two months and I have been otherwise occupied to get the time/weather right so I could get out and crack on with it. I replaced the complete ABS module. I've attached a PDF of the wiring to the plug and some pics of the plug. I rang the wires out and had good earth, good supply and also good bus connection. Getting the plug off the ECU is difficult, especially with cold hands. The unit is not in the best of places to gain access. In case you are reading this to find out how to get the plug off you need to slide the red lever downwards (img1 & 2), easy enough, then there is a lever just above the red img3 which needs to be pulled away from the plug and hinged all the way down. This jacks the plug out of the ECU. It is difficult to get to on the Octavia and I would recommend taking the battery out to give you better access. The big lever is locked in place with the red one but it is also latched so you need a bit of force to get it over the latches. Once it moves, it is fine but getting it started is the problem. I used a scriber with a 90 degree end to hook behind the lever and pulled it because it was just too painful on my finger ends. The images are the right way up as the cable is mounted. The loom enters the plug at the top. I made sure the unit I got from Ebay came supplied with the plug just so I could take these photos :-) I found a replacement ABS unit on Ebay for £30.00 including delivery and plugged it in but it didn't show up on the scan at first. When I went back and checked the system I found that I had left fuse 4 out in the engine fuse box. Once that was plugged in the ECU was visible on the bus. This is slightly misleading because fuse 2 in the cabin fuse box is 'Control unit for ABS,ESP' so you would expect that fuse to be the fuse that powered the electronics. Fuse 16 (30A) 'Pump for ABS' and Fuse 4 (30A) 'Valves for ABS' seem to be a bit large for powering the electronics :-) I had removed fuse 4 because that was the only way I could get the engine to run for more than a couple of seconds. I think what has happened is when I changed the battery on the car, the ECU fried. It fried in such a way that it latched the bus drivers on if there was power supplied (via fuse 4), possibly even put a full 12V on the bus. This stopped all the other ECU's from using the bus reliably hence I got everything lit up as broken. WIth the fuse out, I was able to clear the faults, keep the engine running and run diagnostics, with the fuse in, nothing. I will take the ECU to bits and see if I can see something obvious when I get a bit of time. The job was straightforward to do but it was a pain having to remove the battery, the air intake ducting etc. just to get to the unit. I also think that the unit could have been mounted so that it would be possible to replace just the ECU. As it is, you can't get in to the screws to remove the ECU because it's facing the inner wing. Moving the unit nearer the centre of the car would have made the job a lot easier. I had one brake pipe seized in the union. I undid all of the others OK and removed the unit from the mount and then unscrewed it from the pipe. I had to warm the union up to free it). I overheated it and melted the plastic coating but I figured this was better than twisting the union and snapping the pipe :-) I now have my favourite car on the road again :-) ABS_Connector_Plug-Pin_Assignments.pdf

I will give the shorting out a go. I left it unconnected overnight last week to see if it would drain any charge away but didn't try shorting it out. I'll do it when the weather is better and I can see what I am doing. At least we're past the shortest day and on the way to Summer :-) I'm using OBDELEVEN for scanning. I don't have access to a Windows PC for VCDS (Day job is UNIX so get shoved Windows by the customer, no need for it at home. If I get really stuck I have a local friendly garage who will do the scans but I'm not that desperate yet :-)) I also have a VS-450 code reader and that can't see the ABS system either, I used that to reset the ABS unit before I had OBDELEVEN, Two readers telling me the same thing is pretty conclusive :-( If anybody has a scan of a 1Z3 2005 103KW 2.0 TDi Ambiente that shows the code in the ECU I'd appreciate a copy of it. I don't know whether the code is model specific, vehicle specific or controller specific so getting a couple of scans from similar vehicles will hopefully give me an idea. I am fully expecting to have to replace the ECU but don't want to :-( D

Hi Moiloon, did your scan show the ABS unit. It's not appearing on my scans at all. It was there earlier this year because I had to replace an ABS sensor and had to go in to clear the codes. It's not there now. Phyically it is, electronically it is not showing :-( D

Next question though, I got the battery off and the tray removed and got the part numbers for the pump and controller. They are fairly common :- Pump: 1K0 614 117H ECU: 1K0 907 379P Everything looks OK. I have not been able to remove the cable from the ECU and check continuity etc. but everything is in place physically. How do I remove the cable from the controller. There is a red slider on the connector which I slid down but the connector still doesn't want to move. It could be I am a bit wimpy and my hands were freezing and I just need to apply more brute force but I'd rather not do that unless as a last resort. D

Thanks WIno. When I checked, I had downloaded those documents. I was having trouble with the assist application which needs Windows to run. Looking closely at the PDF's I downloaded, I don't think the assist application will give me any more help. The pdf's have the connectors and pin info and what I have seen of the assist, it doesn't offer much more. D

I have just been through the workshop manual (I did the download a few months ago when I was after some torque settings). I downloaded every PDF I could find that was avaialble for the car. There is stuff on the electrical system but it is the general electrical repair stuff and how to replace some of the modules. I couldn't find anything more specific. I have just been and logged back in and can't see the pages. I don't run Windows or Internet explorer so it won't talk to me. Another 7 EU down the drain :-( D

Yes. The fuse was fine. Only had 6.8mA flowing through it which I thought was a bit low but that could be due to the unit being faulty. Without a known good working reference, it's difficult to know what the readings should be. D

Yes :-) It was disconnected overnight and was still no better :-( Regards, D

I have checked all the fuses, there is current drain on all of them that look like they are involved. I have cleared all the codes and had a good look at the wiring to the unit, everything looks fine. I rescanned the car and got a lot of errors. I cleared all of the errors that I could, removed the battery connector and started again. Loads of errors. I cleared everything but still get the stubborn ABS and steering errors. I get nothing from the ABS unit at all. I think this is definitely fried and consequently, no wheel speed data is getting to the steering so I am not getting the speedometer working. The part number on the ABS unit is 1K0 614 117H, I couldn't see the part number for the controller due to how it is mounted. I will need to remove the unit before I can get the part number. A quick search for the part number on a 'popular on-line auction site reveals that the controller always has a part number of 1K0 907 379P so it looks as if what I have is a fairly common part. What I don't know is what the coding of the unit is. Will it be the same for all the units with that part number or will it be unique to the vehicle ? I have been unable to find a detailed wiring diagram for the car so I could try ringing the cables out. Does anybody have a good quality wiring diagram for the car ? What I downloaded from Erwin is pretty useless :-( Latest and greatest scan is below. Notice there is no braking module in the list :-( :- OBDeleven data log Date: 2016-12-14 12:18 VIN: TMBCE21Z562144017 Car: Skoda Octavia Year: 2006 Engine: BKD Mileage: 254270 KM --------------------------------------------------------------- 01 Engine Control Module 1 System description: R4 2,0L EDC G000SG Software version: 7000 Hardware number: 03G906016HF Serial number: SKZ7Z0E3115410 Coding: 0000072 Trouble codes: No trouble codes found --------------------------------------------------------------- 08 Air Conditioning System description: Climatic PQ35 010 Software version: 0301 Hardware number: 1Z0820047D Trouble codes: 01316 - Brake control module Please read DTC static --------------------------------------------------------------- 09 Central Electrics System description: Bordnetz-SG H34 Software version: 0803 Hardware number: 1K0937049M Serial number: 00000003424020 Long coding: 00880F030004140000110D000000000000087B075C Subsystems: System description: Wischer SK351 012 Software number: 1Z2955119A Software version: 0401 Coding: 0065525 Trouble codes: No trouble codes found --------------------------------------------------------------- 15 Airbag System description: Q4 AIRBAG VW8 015 Software version: 2100 Hardware number: 1K0909605N Serial number: 0038ED0HL14 Coding: 0020788 Trouble codes: No trouble codes found --------------------------------------------------------------- 16 Steering Column Electronics System description: Lenksäulenmodul 034 Software version: 0070 Hardware number: 1K0953549AF Coding: 0000042 Trouble codes: No trouble codes found --------------------------------------------------------------- 17 Dash Board System description: KOMBIINSTRUMENT VD1 Software version: 3562 Hardware number: 1Z0920910D Coding: 0003401 Trouble codes: No trouble codes found --------------------------------------------------------------- 19 Gateway System description: Gateway H10 Software version: 0120 Hardware number: 1K0907530F Serial number: 2800105627885A Long coding: 3D3F0340071303 Trouble codes: No trouble codes found --------------------------------------------------------------- 25 Immobilizer System description: IMMO Software version: 3562 Hardware number: 1Z0920910D Trouble codes: No trouble codes found --------------------------------------------------------------- 42 Door Electronics Driver Side System description: Tuer-SG 024 Software version: 2346 Hardware number: 1T0959701B Coding: 0000756 Trouble codes: No trouble codes found --------------------------------------------------------------- 44 Steering Assistance System description: EPS_ZFLS Kl.5 D04 Software version: 1606 Hardware number: 1K2909144J Trouble codes: 00625 - Speed signal No signal/communication static 00778 - Steering angle sensor static --------------------------------------------------------------- 46 Central Module Comfort System System description: KSG Software version: 0401 Hardware number: 1K0959433AK Long coding: 01D002007F2D8505485F861004CC Subsystems: System description: LIN BACKUP HORN H03 Software number: 1K0951605C Software version: 1301 System description: NGS n.mounted System description: Innenraumueberw.008 Software number: 1Z0951171 Software version: 4801 Coding: 0000000 Trouble codes: 01312 - Drive train data bus Please read DTC static --------------------------------------------------------------- 52 Door Electronics Passenger Side System description: Tuer-SG 024 Software version: 2346 Hardware number: 1T0959702B Coding: 0000756 Trouble codes: No trouble codes found --------------------------------------------------------------- 56 Radio System description: Radio FO3 012 Software version: 0026 Hardware number: 1Z0035161B Serial number: SKZ7Z3E0027494 Coding: 0000402 Trouble codes: No trouble codes found --------------------------------------------------------------- 62 Door Electronics Rear Left System description: Tuer-SG 021 Software version: 2405 Hardware number: 1K0959703E Coding: 0000144 Trouble codes: No trouble codes found --------------------------------------------------------------- 72 Door Electronics Rear Right System description: Tuer-SG 021 Software version: 2405 Hardware number: 1K0959704E Coding: 0000144 Trouble codes: No trouble codes found Regards, D

It could be a broken spring too. I had two broken, I blamed the speed hump test tracks locally that the council call roads :devil: D

I don't have easy access to VCDS any more so I am working a bit blind on this one. I am also nowhere near the car at the moment. It will be the weekend before I can get any time under the bonnet. I'm planning on removing the plug and having a good look to see if there is any corrosion etc. I also need to get the part number off the unit so I can buy the correct one. At the moment I'm playing with the idea of just scrapping the car and getting another one (I like the Yeti), I've had this one for eight years and it owes me nothing, it's served me well and this is the first unexpected major thing that's gone wrong. Apart from regular servicing and replacing worn out running components and suspension the car has done well, it's got 160k on the clock and is starting to rust on the sill and wheelarches so it's borderline whether I spend the time doing the work. It would probably have been scrapped if this had happened before I fitted new rear calipers, pads and discs followed by four new tyres. I replaced the disks, shoes and calipers on the front earlier this year too so it's got good running gear. My next major work was expected to be the timing belt and water pump but that's a bit irrelevant now. Please bear with me while I contemplate... D

Hi Rusty, thanks for the reply. No, I haven't :-( and it is something I seriously regret. I don't think I am in a unique situation. There must be some way to regenerate the codes. If the unit had failed and been taken to a Skoda dealer for repair they would be in the same situation. Life was much easier when all you needed was a socket set, some feeler gauges and a hammer :-) D

Octavia II - 2.0 103KW TDi AE55 plate 1Z3. My battery died last week. When I replaced it the dash lit up in tune with the time of year. I reset all the codes but couldn't get in to reset the ABS controller. I now have a car that I don't feel comfortable driving. The speedo is not working and neither is the rev counter. If I turn the ignition on, all the lights come back on. The cooling fans start and ramp up to full speed even though the engine is cold :-( I removed fuse 4 from the engine bay fuse box. Once I did this, the car would start and run. With the fuse in, the engine is immobilsed and will only run for a couple of seconds. I have to go through the remove fuse, clear all the faults and start the engine routine once that happens. Once the engine is running, I can put the fuse back in and it will happily keep running but won't start if I turn it off. The fuse is Fuse 4 'Valves for ABS'. This is a 30A fuse. Nothing I do gets me to read the ABS system. I think the ABS CU has failed so I am going to replace it and see if that will bring back the speedo and the rest of the bus. However, reading the user's manual from erwin, it says :- 'Read out and note the actual control unit coding' as part of the removal process and :- 'Code the control unit -J104- ⇒ Vehicle diagnostic tester.' as part of the replacement process. How do I do that when I can't even see the ABS unit with the reader :-( I know it was there - I had to read and erase the fault codes last year when I replaced a faulty wheel sensor. Just out of interest, fuse 5 is 'Control unit for automatic gearbox', the car has a manual 6 speed gearbox so just what is this fuse for ? I'm not going to get a new unit and I'm going to fit the stuff myself, it will cost more than the car is worth to take it to a dealer for them to do the work :-( The units seem readily available from breakers so it should be a relatively cheap fit though not for the faint hearted, especially outside in winter :-( Annoyingly, I have just fitted four new tyres, new rear disks and pads and a new battery. I replaced all the front brakes in February this year too :-( GRRR. D

Does anybody know if there are any breakout connectors available for the Skoda. I want to connect a 'scope to some of the sensors but don't like the idea of piercing the harness insulation.

Just an update on this - it's started pretty much on the first go for the last few months then last week, it went back to a long crank. I've not done anything with it because it's been working fine, still no fault codes.

Just an update - it happened again today for the first time since I posted. It's been starting without problems every time sibce I last posted until today. No fault codes. It did start on the first go but it was a very long crank. No fault codes showing. I'll try it again tomorrow and see what happens.

You've probably condemned yourself now :-(

Before and after :-( It's just starting to get more frequent. I've checked with the code reader and thers's never any codes - most recent code was p0234 which is why I'm going to service the turbo but this is the first time I've ever had a code in 5 years of ownership. Once it's started, it continues to start flawlessly until it's been left to cool overnight.