jmf

Yes, I'm planning to wire the remote to a fuse, the cable is already there just didn't hook it up yet. Great idea about taking the door card off! Why didn't I think of that Final question: is it worth tapping into BOTH left+right speaker wires close to the head-unit instead of just one door speaker? I.e. will it make a difference in the signal? Or is the door speaker fine?

I'm trying to fit a sub to my 2007 vrs as well. Can anyone advise where exactly to tap into the speaker wires and what color they are? I already ran the power wire from the battery, together with the remote turn-on wire on the left side of the car, side by side with the regular car wires, had to take off the step panels, b-pillar panel and the rear bench, so I'm ok with doing it again on the opposite side of the car. My problems are: 1. I suppose that since the octy's rear speakers are in the rear doors, the speaker wires don't run further back, so I'd have to tap into them near the b-pillar? 2. What color are the speaker wires or how can i identify them in the bunch of wires that runs under the step panels? Thanks! l.e.: i want to tap into the speaker wires because i have a mfd2 head unit which doesn't have rca outs; i do have a line output converter

It was the tensioner, was replaced and the sound is gone. Additionally it looks like the serpentine belt was never changed :peek: (car has 160k km) and had already the top layer broken in two places, matter of days probably before it went completely.

^ cam belt tensioner = serpentine belt tensioner

Tinkered with it some more and I *think* the sound is coming from the cam belt tensioner. Unfortunately I don't have a stethoscope or a really long screwdriver to listen to it, however just holding a screwdriver onto it I can kind of feel the vibrations in my hand in time with the noise which is a repeating "tap-tap-tap" at idle with maybe half a second pause in between. I didn't know the tensioner can actually make such noise and of course I'm not 100% it is the cause. Is there any surefire way to diagnose it short of replacing it? Also, should I minimize the driving until I get it replaced? Btw, is the tensioner supposed to be vibrating? By this I mean that it's not holding perfectly still, but it's rather moving towards the back and front of the car...like, I can see the pin on its right moving.

Following a 10km / 1hr traffic jam yesterday, during which I thought the clutch was going to give up the ghost (severe juddering when starting from a standstill), my 2007 tfsi vrs has developed a tapping / knocking noise in the engine bay. Unfortunately it's quite loud, can be heard from the cabin. I checked the oil level, it's more than half, plus I've done the change about 2k ago so that should be fine. Trying to isolate where the noise is coming from, it seems it's coming from near the cambelt somewhere. Can't really say if it's from the top or the bottom of the engine, maybe more like midway through. I started the car this morning and the noise is there from cold to warm (i.e. all the time) and the tapping rises and falls with the revs. I am dreading a bit that it could be the cam chain / tensioner, but that's on the opposite side of the engine and the noise doesn't really seem to be coming from there. As far as the cambelt goes, it was done approx 80.000km / 50.000 miles / 3 years ago, together with the water pump. Any idea what it might be?

Even easier: where is the dipstick located? 1. Front of engine: TFSI 2. Left side: TSI

If you get a hold of someone with VCDS, make sure that in addition to reading the errors you also do some logs while driving. E.g. in 3rd, from 2000rpm to 6000rpm and log e.g. requested vs actual boost (measuring block 115 under Engine in VCDS). Then you can nicely plot it in excel and see if the boost is there.

Fitted, great mod! Highly recommend

Just had this happen to me today: car was left in the garage for a few days, tried to start it spluttered. Second and third attempts also unsuccessful, battery was turning the engine but no start (almost like it was lacking fuel). Went to look under the bonnet and the lights started flickering. Went back inside the cabin, the dash lights were flickering as well. Took out the key, put it back in, tried once more and after a few turnovers it started. Ideas?

So, fondled with the car today: after looking at the suggested culprits which thankfully were all good I finally found it. The round metallic mud guard (?) behind the rear left brake disk had come loose of all three screws and was rattling. Due to it being thin and relatively big I guess it amplified the effect. For the moment a poor man's fix was done: drilled two holes in it, one top one bottom, and fastened it with some wire. It also suffered a bit of bending on some sides. Any idea how much the thing costs? Though to be honest I'm more scared about the screws being rusted in...

No updates yet as it was freezing cold and work kept me until night: no fun to take off wheels at minus temperatures at night I do have big plans for the weekend, I'll come back with the findings.

How do I get at the shock covers? @nickguzzi: car is 2007

Thanks for the replies: I checked the spare wheel (forgot to mention). While the jack/stuff recipient inside it rattles a bit, it's not the same rattle. Will try to jack the car up later today and inspect the spring. The springs are Eibach ProKit btw, about one and a half years old.

Hi all and Happy New Year! Just noticed yesterday, as a new year's present, that my 2007 vrs has developed a metallic sounding klunk / bang when going over speed bumps. Description: - comes from the rear of the car (i'd say rear left) - happens when the rear wheels have passed the speedbump and go down, at the point they are on the ground again and the rear body comes down as well, the sound is heard - it sounds very similar to a hitting a metallic drum with your fist - there might be some small after-rattle too - on the road it also happens if going over bigger bumps at speed I checked the exhaust, manually shaking it in all directions and it doesn't seem to be the culprit. I also shook the heatshield above the exhaust, also not. Anyway the sound is deeper than what the heatshield would make, it's really like something is hitting on (hollow) metal. Haven't had time to jack it up and properly look underneath yet, plus it's freezing cold Ideas?

Revo stage 1 remaps to ~250hp and ~400nm (that's what mine dyno-ed to).

Solved: the top of the thing seen in the picture can be taken off, there are 5 hex screws. It is actually a thin metal plate having an o-ring underneath. Applied silicone under the o-ring, put it back, screwed the plate on top and voila, no m0ar leak. I guess the plate had somehow deformed because the impression by the o-ring was clear on the top of the plate (on the inside) but not so much on the bottom, hence the leak.

Hi all, I've had a small oil leak (or rather, seepage) on my 07 vrs for a while now. Being pretty insignificant I ignored it, but I think now it's time to take action. Can anyone tell me if this is a known problem and maybe where the leak could stem from exactly? I looked briefly in ETKA and couldn't identify any gasket or some such that I could easily replace. Here's the place: http://tinypic.com/r/15dnadt/8 From etka I see there's a vaccum pump somewhere in that area, however I couldn't identify the trapezoidal (or whatever) thing which can be seen in the picture and which is damp at the bottom. Thanks!

Is there any information about tensioner failures on the ea888 unit of the mk3 vrs? (checked that particular subforum, but didn't see a similar thread)

Photo of my car

Thanks. They look so good I started looking to buy them

Are they 18 or 19"?

In my experience, in stock form it should pull progressively from about 2500rpm to the redline. If mapped, depends on map, could be it pulls linearly or spikes first then slowly drops off. In any case a situation in which it pulls, then has a flatspot, then pulls again is not good.

The audis have the same problems as well. In fact, also the TFSI audi engines were chain driven and they used to snap! You can always get the octy tfsi (pre fl), pretty bullet-proof engine (just change the cam follower every once in a while and you're golden)

Remap. But maybe try the map first if possible, not all are the same in regards to delivery.