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Nokia 6301 Unlocked so will work on any network, Excellent condition & Excellent Phone. Come's with Nokia Desk charger. Selling due to new phone. £35 Inc Postage Cheers Dean

I thought this thread was about Skoda's !! Why do you like Seat's ? Dean

Good going there, It does feel Kinda good bringing something back to life . Thanks for the Typo Dean

I know, Did a few Miles today & the Ole Legs & the Bit between your legs .. Well .. John Wayne Movie anyone Going to use it for work journey's , so should save a few pennies & like you say, Either Kill ot Cure Me Cheers Dean

I remember paying what i thought was a fortune for it, Chrome alloy frame, Shimano GS200 Bits, Gel Seat I always knew there was a reason why i kept it !!! Cheers Dean

My 20+ Year old Scott Mountain Bike I resurrected it today .. New Seat, New handlebar grips, Few Cable's here & there, Quick soak of the Chain & dralier in Degreasent Oh & fitment of a man Bag It's Gotta be quicker than my feet Dean

Filling with Silicone does the trick & firms them up no end, Nice & Cheap too Dean

You can't beat air impact tools for stubborn Bits Dean

I can't definatively say from memory but if you get both then you are covered, Plus you will always use a 17 in the future as it is a more main stream size .. Dean

A 17mm will fit & undo them, You may struggle to find someone on the street (As such) that stocks a 16mm Swan neck / Offset spanner Dean

What year ? Engine Type ? Egr valve could be causing the hunting .. As for the coolant, if there are defo no leaks then your looking at head gasket .. Time to get a good garage to do a coolant pressure test & combustion leak test Etc. This will confirm .. As for the hiss when removing the cap, If the car is warm, you will definately get that any way, sometimes still appears on a cold/cool engine. I would attempt to clean the Egr first & see if it gets better. Dean

That is what i thought ... Until i went to buy another. I looked at a 57 plate & the first thing i did was to pop off the engine cover to check the inlet manifold type .. Low & behold.. The link bar was missing all together & it had the old style manifold, Trying to explain this to the seller, that there should be a bar ontop that links the swirl valve's from the one motorised swirl valve ... He said well i have another one over here .. He did but it was a 120, "different engine mate" Well then had to explain the difference there ... Needless to say , I walked away .... Some of the Later Saab Tid Models still have the older type manifold also, I looked at a few of those as an alternative... Dean

Some post 06 150 Models still had the dodgey inlet manifold, The one where the inlet swirl valve's gunged up & the link bar on the top then falls off .. Approx £500 for all parts & labour (Non vauxhall) As said.. Dmf's, Egr's, Dpf Software issue's pre 06 150 Model's, rear trailing Arms, Steering rack Play (Higher Mileage cars)... Nice, well speced car if you go for the Design or Elite badge... 120 is defo more trouble free & when mapped & run against a mapped 150 rolling, There is very little in it .... Here's my 150 Estate before i sold it & after spending £££'s Dean

I bet some people might even hide their number plates behind Artics Dean

There is not a little bit of rust / grime / dirt behind one of the newly fitted discs is there ? Meaning that it is not fitting flush/flat... Check for the same behind one of the alloy's.. or maybe something really simple .. Seeing as you can drive through it ... As the wheels for whatever reason, just need a re-balance .. Dean

Thats good news then The Jubilees are good but they just don't have the clamping pressure of the Mikalors .... Plus they save you the cost of a clean pair of Pants Dean

I have an Auto-Xs one from Aldi £3.99 a little bit bigger than the tesco one but v similar, velcro to the bottom & back so fits nicely behind the seat backs & upto the arches Etc ... Dean

Driving Home, Turned into the road to cover the last couple of miles, Nice long Straight & then a hard sweeping right ... 2nd gear 4500 Rpm, 3rd 4500 Rpm, 4th 4500 Rpm ... Just start to back off to change gear & BANG.. Feck.. :( No Power what so ever, But still running.. After all the recent Turbo failures on here too i thought .. Oh No not my Turn ...... Managed to coast the rest of the way fearing the worst as i have removed all of the Vag Boost hose connectors apart from the one directly off the turbo & this one is well secured .... So limps onto the drive & had a shufty ...... Fortunately for me the other end of the samco pipe off the turbo had blown off... Panic over So i brought out the Big Boys The Mikalor clamps Lets see how long this one stays on Dean

Good news, Simples when you know, We have all been there & done that... What would you do without the Internet ... Dean

Definately increased play side to side with no oil .. Plus it is going to expand when hot so tolerances will lessen then ...... As for the in & out (Push / Pull) as you say , get a 2nd opinion or hopefully somebdy with one to hand can check theirs also, Devonutopia (Jason) normally has lots of spares hanging around Cheers Dean

Seeing as the turbo is dry of oil, there will be a little play, As far as i have always been led to believe though , In & out (Push Pull) play is far more detrimental than the Up & down play as the shaft & turbine will naturally centre under load / spin .... As long as you cannot get the turbine blades to fowl the casing...... I recently repalced a turbo on a Subaru Impreza & that had up & down play (30K Miles) but no in & out, I know they are a slightly different beast having no variable vanes but the bearing type is the same Etc. The Old one that came out sounded like casper the Ghost on spool up WoOOooHooo & had quite a lot of play in the shaft in all directions, The 30k replacement had no haunting sounds .. Dean

Well it's here I just need to fit it, It says Vw underneath & this code 3BD 035 507. Just need to get it fitted & report back Dean

No Problem If you do a search on here there is quite a bit of info on it, Alternatively, Just buy a chepo 12v elec tester & check, not forgetting to pull the Keys out fully afterwards to see if the tester goes out, as Vw's keep the power there until the key is removed ... Dean

Hi. The blue cable should be connected to an Ignition Live, In other words a feed that becomes live when the ignition is on & not live when off Etc. the blue is for the signal boost on the ariel , so will explain your loss of stations. I know on the vw range you have to swap the red & yellow wires over on aftermarket head units, One of these is a switched live, So you could just connect it to the correct one. Once identified Etc. There generally also is a output pin on the connector block which is a switched live also. Dean

I thought that was quite a good description I have suffered with the Ping / Clong Noise on all the coilovers i have ever had ..... & that has been quite a few so far Dean