GR_Octavia_ABT

With the dieselgeek short shift you don't have to change the gear stick and knob, you just change the shifter in the engine bay ... 10 minutes job ...

It feels rock solid ... Very firm throws and also reduces the left to right movement of the gear stick. Anyway, enjoy whatever you buy

Check this one http://www.dieselgeek.com/A4NB_SS.php I have it and it's very good ...

hehe ... NGK BKR7E and you'll see more ...

They were and are better than the oem ones ... The IK24 were the best so far for my setup. (the fact that I changed them doesn't mean that they weren't working properly but that I like testing various products to find the best for my car)

I have also removed them since then and tested many others, such as IK24, NGK BKR7E, NGK R7112-8, etc, but it was a good opportunity to inform you about our newly born SkodaClub.GR forum ...

:cheers: from

Unbelievable but yes it's true ... Eliminated Raul's Spain, Zidane's France, Netved's Czech Rep. and beaten twice Figo's Portugal ... Kings of Europe sikose to, to gamimeno den mporo, den mporo na perimeno :cool2: :cool2: :cool2: :cool2: :cool2:

ffelan, take a look at this: http://www.dnperformance.com/audivw.html

Yes, that's the idea. I didn't go all the way down to the front grill, as I'm a bit afraid of water, dust and small stones that could be sucked and cause problems.

Well, mine it's not in fact an induction kit, but I think it's a low cost mod to get some more air : We made a tube like this tested fitting and the result It's not noisy at all, but you can hear better the dv ... What do you think?

You can also check the 8N0407181B, VW part of excellent quality. I had the powerflex bushes, but they needed to be replaced after 12.000 klms .

The "good" K04 is the K04-23 (BorgWarner part no. 5304 988 0023 - oem part no. 06A145704Q) fitted to the s3/tt 225hp. This turbo can give 270-290 hp, but in order to go there you also need: exhaust manifold, water and oil hoses, downpipe, injectors (380cc), maf, and of course a new program.

1.8T 150HP AGU 06A906031 0 280 150 464 289ccm@3bar 334ccm@4bar 1.8T 150,180HP 06A906031BA 0 280 156 061 321ccm@3bar 371ccm@4bar 1.8T 210,225HP 06A906031BC 0 280 155 892 395ccm@3bar 456ccm@4bar Audi RS2 316HP 034906031F 0 280 150 984 386ccm@3bar 446ccm@4bar Audi S6 230HP 034906031B 0 280 150 951 301ccm@3bar 348ccm@4bar Also here there is a lot of info: http://clam.rutgers.edu/~dreadsct/resell/1.8T_injectors.htm

I have tried the N75J and the N75H (the stock on mine is the F version) Both give higher overboost pressure (the H much more) and hold the pressure high enough at high revs. Impressive is the torque you gain with the J valve in the mid revs. But I was hitting limp mode with both J and H, so I bought the overboost solution kit from www.boostvalve.com. This cured the overboost problem, but then I was hitting limp mode at mid revs when trying to accelerate (not in WOT). It all depends on the program you run. Other guys here with revo or abt chip for the rs, do not face any problem. It's a matter of where the pressure limiter is and the discrepancy between requested versus achieved (or better trying to achieve) pressure.