cloggy-jasiri

Going free to anyone who wants it, a used Skoda Favorit engine. This engine was part of a purchase when I bought a LHD Favorit rally car as a spare engine. I have not had cause to use it and is largely complete (only the oil filter is dented!). As the car has since been modified to to incorporate the Felicia 1600cc VW engine, it is now surplus to requirements and cluttering up the garage. I think too good to take to the skip, could be useful for someone. If interested contact me via the forum, the engine is in Saxilby near Lincoln. Or call me on 07951168514.

The reason is because the wiring loom connections on the 1.3 alternator are different to the 1.6 alternator. We did not use all the looms from the donor car, just the engine loom and made the few connections necessary for the ECU etc into the existing 1.3 loom. As for photos, I have will take some soon and try and upload, but I have not previously been successful,must be doing something wrong!

The one knock could be related to either the gearbox or engine mounting worn, and gear stick moving might also be related. With engine running try putting engine it in 1st gear (with handbrake firmly on) and releasing clutch until it just bites, then release and repeat, this should result in the engine rocking whilst there is no forward motion of the car and may help identify the source of the noise .If possible get someone else to help look and identiffy where the knock is coming from whilst the engine is rocking. Could also be lower swing arm bushes worn, or perhaps even a broken spring nestling in the strut, but that is less likely. Good luck

Have not fitted the ARB as the car is a rally car with adjustable ride height coilover shocks with stiff off road spec springs, so the 'anvil' is quite well planted and road holding does not seem to have materially changed. Took it out on the road for a spin for the first time yesterday and the improvement in performance is very noticeable. If however, it later transpires that an ARB is necessary, I still have the complete front sub frame assembly from the Felicia which can either be transplanted complete, or the Fav can be modified to take the Felicia swing arms which has the ARB mounts, either way not an insurmountable task. A fun project, worth the effort!

Hi, The project is 95% complete, the mods undertaken are:- 1-Use the 1.6 top engine mount (but you need to adapt the chassis rail on the Favorit to accept the transverse bolt of the bigger mount). We fabricated a bracket with a cative nut and welded it to the chassis rail on the Favorit. 2-Dispense with the lower OS engine mount of the 1.3 (downward peg) 3-We used the 1.3 gearbox mount, but then unbolted the 1.6 gearbox trailing mount from the 1.6 bolted it to the 1.3 gearbox and fabricated /welded the rear mount onto the subframe, replicating the felicia rear g'box mounting arrangement 4-Used the Felicia 1.6 engine/adaptor and mounted the 1.3 gerarbox directly onto it (no mods required) 5-Fabricated an alternator bracket and used the existing 1.3 alternator + wiring arrangement. Swapped the pulley (multi V) from a 1.3 Spi onto the 1.3 which was a single V. A Fiat Bravo fan belt was the right choice). 6-Used the Felicia 1.6 MPI engine harness and integrated that into the 1.3 loom 7-Needed to use the 1.6 immobiliser,if not the unit will start but stops after a couple of seconds. 8-Used the Felicia tank (with integral fuel pump) to replace the Favorit pump. 9-We have used the 1.3box mounted it directly onto the 1.6 engine and adapter 10-Used the 1.6 rad to replace the 1.3 rad 11-Mounted the ECU in the same physical place as on the Felicia (innere wing near header tank) A bit of a challenge in all but an interesting project. Have yet to test the unit in anger, perhaps this weekend! But it runs sweetly. I will in due course add a more comprehensive report supplemented with photos, took quite a few. Cheerrs Herman

Have transferred the immobiliser / transponder from the donor car into the Favorit and spliced the unit into the Favorit car loom and 1600 MPi engine loom (with ECU) and now have the engine working fine. Not long before we get it on the road, fabricating a new supguard and tidying up a few other minor tasks before it is ready for action!

Yes, still have the donor car. Where is the immobiliser unit and key reader coil located? Is it in the steering column area? Thanks Herman

Hi all, Thanks for your earlier comments. I have finally completed the engine transplant, both mechanically and electrically with the exception of the immobiliser wire from the ECU. I am not sure if the donor car has an immobiser or not, or where it is located as the wiring diagram and the manual do not give much of a clue. There is healthy spark, and I have had a couple of coughs but no sustained running yet for more than a second or so, and eventually I flattened the battery. Have tried squirting a little fuel direct into the intake so not sure if the coughs are due to the fuel in the air or if the injectors are indeed functioning correctly Will try again on Saturday with a powerful / new battery, but in the meatime some inspiration would be helpful. TeflonTom alluded to a potential problem with the immobiliser. The wire is at present not connected to anything and has approx 10 volts on it with the ignition switched on, may be more if the battery is fully charged or a new battery installed, perhaps it would be 12 volts. When the immobiliser is functioning how does it immobilise or should it work? Does it work on the ignition circuit (i.e. spark) or on the fuel injectors? At present we have a healthy spark so my guess is if works on that system there is no need to do anything with the loose wire. If it is linked to the injectors then clearly I'll need to find a solution. Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Would a resistor on the immobiliser output from the ECU to reduce the output volts have the desired effect, if so what should be the voltage? Clutching at straws here! I know people in the grass tracking fraternity use fuel injected engines, presumably also from cars with immobilisers, so how do they get around the problem to trick the ECU into believing the immobiliser is deactivated. Looking forward to some ideas. I will eventually post some pictures of the mods once the systems are all working OK. Cheers Herman

Thanks for the replies so far, the engine will stay as 1.6 MPi, the carb mounting system is prone to damage on the flexible mounting on to the manifold. I will take some pictures as we go so we can load them up on to the forum. Thanks for now Herman

Hi, I have a LHD Favorit rally car with a 1.3 carb engine. I am about to transplant a 1.6 MPi in from a Felicia donor car. I have a few questions to start with and no doubt others might materialise as the project unfolds! Does the 1.6 MPi engine fit directly onto the Favorit gearbox? If so is it wise to do so? If so what mods are required for a 3rd engine / gearbox mounting? Is it better to use the entire engine / gearbox from the Felicia and weld/fabricate a new rear mounting fixture for the gearbox onto the Favorit? Is it better to use the entire front sub frame assembly with engine and gearbox and the entire drive train including hubs rather than following steps 1-3 above? Is it indeed possible to transfer the sub frame from the Felicia (with its anti roll bar) directly to the Favorit and use exactly the same mounting points? Clearly the 1.3 carb engine does not have a loom compatible with an MPi engine. The MPi engine loom from connects into the main loom with 2 plugs and sockets. Is there a simple wiring diagram of how to integrate or connect this into the Favorit or is it necessary to improvise with a 'home made' loom and pick up power from elsewher? I see this is potentially the trickiest part of the ytransplant, the mechanical bits are l think less daunting. Any advice will be appreciated, if none then it will be a case of making it up as we go along by trial and error. I acknowledge that it may be necessary to modify and weld, but any prior experience by forum members may help us get there a bit quicker. Thanks in anticipation, any other useful tips would be welcome. Regards Herman (cloggy-jasiri)

Thanks for your help. I'll look for a suitable donor vehicle from which I can get a lump, ECU and loom. A few hours on Ebay over the festive break looms !

I hope this works, but this is the link to a couple of photos of the Fav after a revamp earlier this year! Cheers Herman http://http://briskoda.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=26292&stc=1&d=1229988074

Hi folks, I started a thread earlier on (as a newbie) and then searched for engine upgrade options and came across your thread. I have copied my thread and wondered if any of these questions have been answered before. Thanks Herma (aka cloggy-jasiri) Skoda Favorit Rally Car - engine upgrade -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi Folks, My name is Herman, a new recruit to the forum looking for some guidance as to what the best power unit to use. I am about to upgrade my LHD Favorit road rally car from a carburettor version of the 1.3 having just knocked out the big ends on the Preston. I want to upgrade the car to something with a bit more grunt and fuel injection. What are the implications of going to a 1.3MPi, 1.6 MPi, from a Felicia or a 1.4 8 or 16v from a Fabai, VW or similar. Clearly there is no loom in the current car for an ECU so a donor car will have to be bought (i.e. running damaged repairable). Has anyone done something similar and what recommendations do you have, and just a few questions:- 1 - How easy is it to integrate the loom(s) of the three options? 2 - Is it necessary to upgrade the gearbox / drive train for the 1.6 or 1.4 variants? 3 - Will the 1.4 fit onto 1.3 5 speed box? 4 - Are engine mounting mods required for the 1.6 or 1.4? 5 - Car is prior to CAT being a requirement, will later engines with CAT operate OK if they are removed, or will it 'confuse' the ECU and settings? We have access to welding gear etc and are not phased by taking on tasks like this. We have transplanted Ford Pinto engine / gerabox with electronic ignition into a Marina and changed the back axle to Lada with coil springs and 5 links. Thanks for your help cloggy-jasiri

Thanks for the advice, I still need to familiarise myself with what is where on the forum, I'm sure someone willpoint me in the right direction!

Hi Folks, My name is Herman, a new recruit to the forum looking for some guidance as to what the best power unit to use. I am about to upgrade my LHD Favorit road rally car from a carburettor version of the 1.3 having just knocked out the big ends on the Preston. I want to upgrade the car to something with a bit more grunt and fuel injection. What are the implications of going to a 1.3MPi, 1.6 MPi, from a Felicia or a 1.4 8 or 16v from a Fabai, VW or similar. Clearly there is no loom in the current car for an ECU so a donor car will have to be bought (i.e. running damaged repairable). Has anyone done something similar and what recommendations do you have, and just a few questions:- 1 - How easy is it to integrate the loom(s) of the three options? 2 - Is it necessary to upgrade the gearbox / drive train for the 1.6 or 1.4 variants? 3 - Will the 1.4 fit onto 1.3 5 speed box? 4 - Are engine mounting mods required for the 1.6 or 1.4? 5 - Car is prior to CAT being a requirement, will later engines with CAT operate OK if they are removed, or will it 'confuse' the ECU and settings? We have access to welding gear etc and are not phased by taking on tasks like this. We have transplanted Ford Pinto engine / gerabox with electronic ignition into a Marina and changed the back axle to Lada with coil springs and 5 links. Thanks for your help