guzzigeezer

Hi all, I'm shortly going to be selling my 2005 2.0TDi PD Elegance Estate to go travelling I'm trying to come up with a fair price but have come across a few variations from the norm that make setting a value a bit hit and miss. I obviously want to get the best price I can, but also do not want to set it too high so that the cost of advertising is wasted as nobody is interested in buying. I've looked at all the usual places and prices seem to range from around 4-7 grand which is a massive variation for basicly the same car. My car does not seem to be a standard model as it has sports suspension, 6 speed gbox, 17" wheels and front parking sensors fitted as factory original options - Do these add any value to the asking price for a used car? do i list it as a sports model or just standard car with optional extras, the badge on the back of the car just says Octavia TDi and has a blank chrome bit where one would expect to see the usual model code (GLX etc) It also is fairly high mileage 181K - how much does this knock off the value ? Most information i've gathered seems to say that these engines will go to 300K so is it a problem? It still drives almost like new. Skoda FSH until 2009 New clutch + DMF, Timing belt + tensioners, Water Pump and new warrented turbo fitted last year. Any advice on pricing and best place to advertise it much appreciated.

Got a quote from "Mr Clutch" for DMF & Clutch for £750-00 all in. If you buy one of their loyalty cards for £20-00 you get 10% off any jobs so this brings it under £700. National Tyres fitted four new budget 225/45-ZR17 94W for £200-00. I've had a look and can do the cambelt + wp myself. Driven the car over 300 miles now and the head seems OK. Does anybody have any suggestions why you would get grey/black vapour in the expansion bottle if it's not the HG? Below is a list of options fitted to my car. http://igorweb.org/equidec/Default.aspx I have looked on the forum but cannot find a definitive answer. What does the 2UC sports version exactly specify? Just thinking forward incase I have to repair suspesion/brake parts. E0A = No special edition 1D0 = Without trailer hitch 5SJ = Left exterior mirror: convex 5RV = Right exterior mirror: aspherical 1KF = Disc brakes, rear 6FB = Body-colored exterior mirror housings 1AC = Anti-lock brake system (ABS) 3FA = Without roof insert (standard roof) 1N3 = Speed-related variable steering assist (Servotronic) 1NL = Covers for alloy wheels H6L = Tires 225/45 R17 91W 4UF = Drivers and front passenger air bag with front passenger air bag deactivation 4R4 = Power windows with comfort operation andcircuit breaker 3NW = Rear seat bench/backrest, split folding with center armrest 3QT = 3-point seat belts with tensioner and height adjustment, front 4X1 = Side air bag front 4A0 = Without seat heater 8L3 = Roof antenna J0N = Battery 330 A (61 Ah) 7AH = Electronic vehicle immobilization devicewith alarm system, passenger compartmentcontrol and backup horn 8GU = Alternator 140 A 6Y0 = Without cruise control warning system 9AK = Climatronic with impact pressure control free of cfc 8RM = 8 speakers (passive) 7Q0 = Without navigation device 8YL = Radio with CD player 8QL = Key for locking system with remote control 8X1 = Headlight washer system 4K3 = Radio remote controlled central locking operated from inside and safe securing B09 = Type approval Great Britain and NorthernIreland G09 = Front shock absorption QN1 = Drawer under left front seat 3L3 = Manual height adjustment for front seats 9P1 = Seat belt reminder, electric contact in buckle 7X2 = Park distance control, front and rear 9W0 = W/o car phone preparation/installation 8WB = Front fog lights 7A2 = CD changer 3GN = Variable cargo area concept QG1 = Service interval prolongation 0GG = Emission standard EU4 L58 = Suspension range 58 installation control only, no requirement forecast 7P4 = Manually adjustable lumbar support in front seats F0A = No special purpose vehicle, standard equipment 3S2 = Black roof rails 2UC = Sports version

Well I took the plunge and got the car for £2000.00 so I'm hoping I should come out on top. I don't do that many miles per year as I'm on motorbikes a lot of the time. I plan on keeping the car so the high mileage should even out. It was just too nice and shiny and red to turn down. Do the DMF's explode? the clutch is only noisy at tickover in neutral with foot off the clutch pedal. The car drives really smoothly. So can I risk leaving it till it wears out? 80K replacement for the cambelt means I've still got 20K left on this one so only the potential head gasket problem to worry about (I hope)

MkII Black & Gold limited edition LeMans owned since 1981

I've finally sorted my 1999 SLx TDi Estate so I now know its all ok as I had Belt w/pump and head gasket tyres and brakes done last year, but just been offered a 2005 2.0TDi six speed Elegance Est for £2500-00 the bad points 171000 miles two bald tyres possible head gasket failure as grey/black deposit in exspansion bottle but coolant clean weird rattle when initialy depressing the clutch and occasionaly at tickover - gear selection perfect - no clutch slip or noise when driven LH side - doors slight crease running length of car All electrics seem perfect New MOT Drives lovely Full service history on long life schedule Cambelt done 2008 at 111000 I don't know these MKII cars at all so could somebody advise of potential problems and costs involved. I'm a competant mechanic but do not have the facilities to change a clutch or head gasket so would have to pay to get it done. Any advice greatly appreciated- Is it the bargain it first seems?

Just posted a topic covering cluster repair with pictures http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/152468-instrument-cluster-repair/page__p__1895286__fromsearch__1entry1895286

Check brakes aren't binding on and that handbrake releases. The pads are prone to seizing in the caliper bodies and effectively holding on the brakes slightly. Also the handbrake actuator arms on the rear calipers can seize on. Does the car roll easily when pushed? Your trip computer should show instantaneous and average MPG figures expect around 60mpg at a steady 65mph on a flat road.

Also need to check the part number of the cluster. Somewhere else on here I've seen that having the wrong one fitted causes the speedo to register 10mph more than you're doing. Interestingly - ours came from a Skoda dealer, and the owner before us was Skoda themselves (one of their reps or something we're told). It's always registered the wrong speed (more than 10mph once you get to 60-70mph the speedo registers 85-90mph). Could it possibly be that this problem's been on this car before and the wrong cluster put in to resolve it? Are you sure clocks aren't set to kilometers rather than miles?

Two electromagnetic changeover coils control the wipers voltage supply, and are switched on and off by a microrocessor in the wiper control module. Clean off the relay contacts in the control unit Marked 377 in the footwell relay panel above pedals. The Plastic cover just pulls off control unit. Use lighter fluid on peice of card to clean contacts or contact cleaning strips. http://cpc.farnell.com/electrolube/ccs020/electrolube-pck-20-clean-strip/dp/SACCS020 Make sure both sides of the contacts are cleaned. Check contacts not pitted or burnt. Can be filed smooth if required. 9 times out of 10 this sorts the problem and saves £40 on replacing the module This also applies to wipers not switching off or stopping in the wrong position

Offending regulator next to Lights Buzzer Needles are friction fit on motor shafts - gently turn to motor stopping point then continue to turn in the same direction whilst pulling up off shaft. Below is the link to photos showing how to dissasemble and repair instrument clusters showing the classic symptoms of no speedo, tacho, fuel and temp gauges. Partly cured by removing fuse 15. (see other posts) People having no lights left on warning buzzer the fault is usualy a faulty microswitch in the door latch assembly. Mine packed up Xmas before last and I've finally got around to fixing them. The fault on my unit was traced to a bad solder joint on the large Voltage regulator next to the warning buzzer. This solder performs the dual job of providing an electrical connection for the regulator but it also acts as the heatsink to help cool the regulator. If the joint is poor or not fully flooded under the regulator, it can lead to it not working at all or overheat and stop working after a while. For peace of mind It is worth reflowing all the solder connections to prevent futher similar problems. Each picture has a comment attached to it describing what is a very easy and quick repair around 1.5 Hours AND FREE. Feel free to add comments or rewrite to post on here. NB Before removing the needles from the motor spindles, lightly turn to full anticlockwise positon and make a note or photo of their alignment against the dials. If you forget reassemble the unit and leave off the front acrylic cover and dial needles. Reconnect the two plugs in the car but leave ignition off and battery connected. (don't forget to put fuse 15 back in) Refit the dial needles in the lowest positions. Push acrylic cover back on. Quick Check capacitors by placing multimeter set to diode measurement position across cap legs, then reverse meter connection (swap over + and - leads) if cap is good meter reading will gradualy rise. A zero reading indicates cap is probably deffective.(not always the case depends upon the circuit layout.) No tools are required to disassemble the clocks apart from a torx screw driver and a wide flat blade to pry the tabs open. Practice soldering on an old radio or similar if you're not already competant. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering or this guide http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/solder.htm Use leaded 60/40 fluxed solder to get a decent joint. (Maplins, CPC http://cpc.farnell.com or similar) Use this link to identify some components and for basic electronics tuition http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/compon.htm It doesn't cover the small surface mount components but the way things work is the same. Use link to CPC catalogue for advanced componant identification. Nothing needs forceing. If it doesn't come apart easily you are doing it wrong. Yes - It is Rocket Science If in doubt - Don't do it - They are very expensive to replace I actually reflowed all my solder joints and replaced the capacitors(Maplins, CPC http://cpc.farnell.com or similar) whilst I had the unit apart. The original quality of soldering was quite poor and a lot of solder (splash balls) lying on the board. Use a half inch paint brush with bristles cut down to 1/4 inch to wipe these off. An old Computer power supply makes a good 12v source to check PCB out.(if you don't know how please don't ask. That's why I went to college)) Link to the photos http://cid-cbccbd631...../Skoda Clocks Please do not use this post to ask me about any other faults. NB: I have changed my hotmail account and unfortunately managed to lose the photographs in the process so unfortunately the links no longer work.

Electrolytic capacitors do have a limited lifespan. Especially if cheap quality. Mitsubishi had problems with the ECU on older 3000GT/GTO models and that was a £55000 car. I will be taking my console out soon (fuse 15 mod working ok) and replace the caps and reflow the soldered joints. I shall keep u posted. I'll try and document all stages and do a write up. By the way people getting confused between fuse 7 and 15. The manual and handbook has fuse layout for LHD car it's a mirror image for RHD. I have just repaired my instruments full pictures with description is here titled Instrument Cluster Repair http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/152468-instrument-cluster-repair/page__p__1895286__hl__Instrument%20Cluster%20Repair%20__fromsearch__1entry1895286

Just had this fault with my TDi SLX. After much faffing about I have diagnosed the fault to be:- The control relay marked 377 (under the diagnostic connector shelf) has two electro-magnet change over relays. The contacts of these get dirty and pitted due to arcing when the wipers are working. The problem gets worse if the wiper motor linkages or pivots are stiff due to more current being drawn through the contact. Easy fix take plastic cover off relay module and clean contacts. Use contact cleaner strips or lighter fluid on a peice of stiff card. DO NOT USE ANYTHING LIKE WD40 OR OIL BASED SPRAY. ONLY USE CONTACT CLEANER, BRAKE PARTS CLEANER OR SIMILAR. Voila! sorted. £40 saved on new unit. By the way the relays are accesed by removing the two small torx screws under the diagnostic connector shelf and pulling the small panel above the pedals slightly down and rearwards.

1999 Skoda Octavia Estate SLX TDI AHF engine 155,000 miles.intermittent fault started last month and failed completely today. used fuse 15 trick. I would assume a dry or poor connection as it has got progressively worse, and now failed completely. A faulty componant would usualy cause an immedite failure.

I've tried that and no result. Thanks anyway. I've taken the radio out and had a good look at the DIN connectors on the back. Connector C pin 14 is missing. Is this a Skoda mod or is that my problem?:confused:

theres a sticky on the forum somewhere to the skoda website. you can download the radio maual PDF and it tells you how to access the menu. I would tell you but i can't remember how to do it.