Zoe

Update, Just found the crank breathers on Ebay (assuming they perfectly good to use and not crap fit/quality) Ok so looks like you can get all of what I need on ebay, so ignore this thread! I should've looked there first

The light blue hose and the red one (on the left that goes into the valve)

So after discovering it wasn't the oil strainer or cam tensioner making a noise, the 'corrugated' plastic hose from the secondary air pump that goes up towards the inlet was snapped in half, now repaired with tape, but this is temporary, also the breather vacuum 'Y' pipe rubber hose is split (sure I replaced that on my last one) Are these dealer only parts, or can you get from GSF or the likes? If I've explained them properly above! (There is a nice diagram somewhere if I can paste it)

Luckily it was a broken air pipe causing the noise on cold start not oil starvation/cam chain tensioner oil supply/strainer! So it will be getting set of springs next Oh and the Kleers metal polish was amazing on the exhaust, best thing I've ever tried on it, impressed!

Taking off a sump is as technical as I'd like to get, don't get involved with timing, too scary! Jason is qualified, but doesn't like to get his hands dirty these days, it's a lot less stressful (although expensive) to send it to the local VAG indy garage. Good news though is the awful noise was down to one of the air pipes had split. Remember replacing loads of vacuum pipe on my last one as they just become perished. Will code read it later, good news it's not the tensioner though!

Mainly detailing it with Kleers products after spending a small fortune on them! Oil strainer/cam chain tensioner probably next on the list :(

Hoping it could be that causing the slap rather than the tensioner then, knew should've had the sump off when oil change was done (I can't fit under the car ATM!)

Yesterday morning I had the dreaded rattle on start up - gave it an oil change in case that was a cheap simple fix, but no, this morning rattle and whistle like take off for a minute until oil got round. Be extortionate to get the local specialist to do, the car is immaculate and already spent out last year having new rear caliper, brakes all round and cambelt/water pump done. Is it easy to do yourself, would you use patent parts rather than genuine?

Thanks for the advice, carpets haven't been wet previously, but I haven't checked today, would make sense to have damp in somewhere electrical, the dash was lit up like a Christmas tree when went out earlier to check it, can hear the fuel pump priming and relays or something clicking even when locked, bugger :| hope it be ok overnight hopefully at worst it'll have drained the battery, trip to the local specialist in order I feel

Not plugged fault reader in, but think I have a bit of an electrical issue! Started when key wouldn't unlock or lock central locking, unlocked manually and some lights were on the dash before I put key in ignition, started ok, drove a short trip and locking worked fine. Oil light on the dash flashed for a while on start up (can't say I've noticed it before, all lights normally go out) so checked dipstick anyway (knew couldn't really be an issue as check weekly), started car up and the orange warning triangle with eclamation mark came on, and abs light! Turned off and on again and still on, turned off and took key out and the car carried on running! Luckily not for long. Clicking noise under the bonnet, wonder if water go in somewhere as p!ssed down all morning. Any of the above common? :( Only ever seem to come here when I have a problem. I've gone with the 'leave it alone for a bit and it'll fix itself' route! :-/

I sold my vRS 3 years ago which was immaculate (was due cambelt though and two new tyres) for £1,300 was up for the same money last year having had cambelt done (not tyres, had one jonnyjakamoto god knows what tyre and the old spare which was barely legal) it had been wrecked in a short period - dunno what it sold for, I passed on buying it back. £1,300 at the moment doesn't seem to get you a clean car, the good ones seem to be circa £2k (for around 2002/2003)

Just bought another vRS, it's thrown up fault code 17840 which google says is secondary air pump (air injection) all the pipes and secondary air pump seem to be new, but there is an unplugged plug under the vacuum assembly valve (is that was it is, at the front of the engine under the inlet) seems to just hang there, not sure if it has been unplugged for a reason, or if it is to do with the above code, anyone any ideas?! Thanks

I phoned and someone is meant to be picking it up this weekend, so I didn't ask any further questions as seemed a bit pointless. Hpi would've been a must if I was going to do a deal with the chap. I guess price is relative, if you were to buy a 2 year old with that mileage now would be at least what you paid. But a well looked after car that you know inside out is worth more than the cheaper Mk2's out there, they still seem to be up to £8k age and mileage dependant. (if that makes sense!) But you can seem to get a mk2 very cheaply now

I noticed the reg! And satnav. I know high mileage usually means a bit cheaper sale price (I thought it was 2006 initially until saw the last photo then read the ad properly again) but it's nearly half the price of other 2008's I've seen for sale, I'm assuming it doesn't have tax and MOT as not mentioned, I'll just call rather than debate it on here lol

There is a high mileage race blue FSI for sale on Autotrader, ok no mention of tax, MOT or service history in the ad (it just mentions the vRS features, none of the 'important' stuff!), and is 145,000 miles, but £3,800 really? Seems too cheap to be true IMO All cars look good in the photos, so prob rough in the flesh, I might just give it a call to enquire further on the history link to ad http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201404283750483/sort/default/usedcars/radius/30/quicksearch/true/onesearchad/used%2Cnearlynew/make/skoda/postcode/co100df/page/1/model/octavia?logcode=p