Ferret101

Why on earth would you need to do that? You just have to swap the switched 12v and the permenant 12v feeds on VAG cars as they're wired backwards from a nomal iso connector?

Having done a lot of digging into this, most do not have any security at all.

JVC 810X that I had in my Superb has a removable front, and a case for stowing the front in the boot or otherwise:

Interesting, if you take the time to read what's going on there rather than just skimming it and dismissing it out of hand... they're newly converting each car they sell with a sequential injection system, not the older troublesome vapourisor type that cause the blanket lpg=trouble stereotyping. These are the ones that use your cars current ECU and it's emissions system and dont technically need to run off of petrol even at startup, much more reliable than the old system and dont need any maintennance at all. 24 months warranty as standard with the car - I wouldnt really say no to it tbh.

Depends I guess, was the 800 quid new quote with or without your at-fault accident factored?

This is not exclusive to the VAG brand - iirc the auto boxes are built by ZF - the same brand used in BMW. Since they swapped to "sealed for life" gearboxes bmw have been having regular failures over the 60-70k mark of most of their auto cars. You'd regularly see posts pop up on the bmw forums along the lines of "Argh, gearbox failure at 7x,xxx miles!" Not necessarily - there's one other component that fails (after talking to the dealer) on a regular basis on the V6 TDi and it's something I've already had to repair. It's the intake manifold electronically controlled flap. Once it's thrown an error condition, it defaults into an open position so that you dont notice any difference in the running. It's effectively a throttle plate controlled by the ECU that tunes the intake manifold for maximum efficiency. The problem comes when the packing seals in the flap shaft fail, and oily crap starts leaking into its electronics - it gets all over the nylon gears inside and the flap starts to stick. Took me two days of fiddling and cleaning the gears to get it moving smoothly again... it's a delicate job too, quite scary. EDIT: Threw the error at approx 110k miles - still going strong

Almost noone bought the changer on the classic model - as the headunit came with a single loading cd slot.

The JVC 810x supports DAB as a bolt on unit, and looks OEM EDIT: And I might have one for sale shortly...

bmw too

You having two of these then? One to go down and one to come back up?

One of my good mates has a Clifford installed exactly like that on his mr2, it's amazing. However, if your car uses transponder keys, the remote start will not work... it'll attempt to start but fail miserably because the ecu immobiliser wont let the car startup.

That looks more like a bmw locking wheel adaptor. The skoda ones I've got are square cut splines!

Superb V6 TDi, though applies to almost anything else VAG with minor changes Time: First go about 2 - 2.5 hours Requirements: Replacement CV joint, about £25-30 with postage off ebay (Hint: Search for a passat cv joint) An assistant Big engined cars: 17mm Hex Drive Smaller engined cars: 14mm Hex Drive If you've bought a non-oem replacement CV joint you'll also need a 27mm socket as they supply a plain bolt sometimes rather than an allen bolt. 10mm Splined driver Trolley jack/axle stands Flat blade screwdriver. Cardboard, lots of cardboard. One of these helps infinitely more than a breaker bar, but is about 30 times more expensive: Procedure: Jack the car up, place on axle stands - do NOT work on the car without axle stands, you're as good as dead. You need enough clearance to slide underneath the engine and gearbox on your back. Remove the rear half of the undertray, this is five screws that need to come out then it can be removed by sliding it backwards. Remove the wheel in question, place at least one of the wheel bolts back into the hub through the brake disk finger tight. Remove the ABS sensor, it's only in push tight, wiggle it carefully and it'll slide out of the hub. The centre bolt will be in massively tight, it took the impact wrench a good 20 seconds of hammering to get it to come free so if you're using a breaker bar you're going to need to put a lot of grunt into it. If the joint in there is OEM, it'll have a hex bolt in it, you'll need a good quality 17mm or 14mm hex driver to get it out. I'd highly recommend buying an impact rated one due to the torque that has to go through it. You'll need an assistant to stand on the brake pedal while you do this otherwise the hub will just spin. This is with the replacement bolt in that came with the non OEM CV joint. Next! Slide under the car with your 10mm splined driver, and find the other end of the driveshaft: There are six bolts in here, and again you'll need an assistant to step on the brake pedal while you remove them. Once they're out, shift the whole hub towards the outside of the car, disengage it then lift it up and towards the front of the car. Your assistant helps here by disengaging the old cv joint from the hub by pushing it towards the centre of the car. Once it's disengaged, move the exterior end of the shaft towards the back of the car, clear the suspension and pull the whole shaft outwards. Take care not to crack the sound insulation like I did though. Whoops. You've now got the shaft free, here comes the fun part, disengaging the cv joint from the shaft. Cut both the old clips off and rip off the remains of the cv boot. Make sure you've got cardboard down or you're going to get grease *everywhere*. To cheat at removing the cv joint without having to beat the crap out of it, place the shaft on a flat surface, take the old hub bolt and start winding it back in. You'll come to a point where the bolt is touching the end of the shaft, keep winding the bolt in and it'll force the shaft out of the cv joint about a centimeter. This is small enough that you can just wiggle the remainder of the shaft out of the joint with minimal fuss. Clean up the end of the shaft, and pull the spring clip, and spacers off the shaft, and replace them with the new parts that came in the kit. Pay careful attention to which way around things are when you take them off! Cleaned up: Replacement bits left, old bits right: This is it, you're halfway through the job with all the hard bits done now. Carefully put the new cv boot over the shaft, and secure it with the supplied clip. You need to rinse out the machining oil off the joint from when it was new, carb/brake cleaner is especially good at this. When it's dry, pack it with CV grease that is either supplied in the kit or you've bought. Slide the new cv joint onto the end of the shaft and give it a good thump to get it to engage, slide it all the way home and make sure it locks in place. Secure the outside edge of the boot to the CV joint with the supplied clip. At this point, it's a case of reassembly is the reverse of disassembly (Good old haynes.) Slide the shaft back under the car, engage it with the wheel hub and put the new bolt in finger tight. Re-engage the gearbox end and put the six splined bolts back in - there's a guide on this forum somewhere that gives you the correct torques. Torque up the centre bolt - I dont know the exact torque here - I just did mine up with a 2 foot breaker bar as tight as I could. I'll see if I can find the correct torque somewhere - you need your assistant to break heavily for you here to give you something to torque against! At this point it's just a case of putting the undertray back on, the wheel back on and taking it for a test drive! Make sure you've not got any CV grease on the brake disk mind!

This only works on models with ecu controlled steering assist As far as I'm aware, Superb 1s have oldschool mechanical power steering...

The explosive device is usually in the base of the seat, not the seatbelt :/ I've currently got this problem, I'm pretty sure cleaning the belt/receiver will help!

Just had a new outer CV joint plonked on my desk at work with a resounding *thunk* - guess what I'll be doing this weekend then? I've got the splined drivers on their way courtesy of the other half, but has anyone got any advice about how to go about this one? I've heard the outer joints can sometimes be a bit of a pig to get off? Do I need anything specialised to get the centre bolt out? The one that's come with the 'shaftec' £30 kit is a normal hex bolt, is the one on the car any different? Does anyone have the torque values for the bits and pieces?

If you've been rearended there's nothing the other party can do - they're 100% at fault and they've got no room to escape. The only thing he can do is claim that you reversed into him at speed, wouldnt stand up in court. Talk to the police, ask them to find the officer who you dealt with and get him to write a witness statement out for you. You may need to ask him nicely, but usually they're happy to do it if you let them know the guys since been an ar*e and changed his story. EDIT: By the way, most private organisations wont release CCTV footage without a court order, infuriating but that's the way it goes.

It's a USB port I'll dig it out later and take a photo of it. The headunit has a rear mounted usb cable, so I thought I'd just extend it and make a mount for it on the dash.

Dont forget the Switched feed and Memory feed are reversed on german cars! If you just plug the iso connectors straight in, it'll work but forget it's settings every time you take the key out! Dont panic though, most headunits come with an adaptor lead which allows you to swop over the switched and permenant feeds! I can highly recommend the JVC 810X, to me it looks almost OEM, plus it's one of the only double din units that you can remove the front off (I spend a lot of time in manchester, this was a must!) You can also bolt on bluetooth to this and it shows your battery level and signal strength on the stereo display, quite nifty. Takes a bit of effort to get it in right, the skodas stereo frame has protrusions at the top that you may need to file down to get it to fit flush into the dash! This goes for any double din unit though. Yes you will lose your maxidot. Connects2 do a superb compatible steering adaptor, beware though I've tried it and it doesnt work - the pin in the plug doesnt mesh with anything in the mini-iso connector. Maybe we need to do a group pester and send a car into them to get them to put a control unit together?

Mine's currently on it's way out, it's the original 2005 battery and when left for more than 24 hours the car's a bit reluctant to get going. Will strip everything off and clean the contacts while I'm at it. Apart from the Exide, what to people recommend? Watch out for GSF and Euro car parts by the way, they specify the same battery for most german diesel cars and it doesnt match... we found this out with the A2 recently, they gave us a 3/4 CCA battery - which went straight back for the same model that was fitted at the factory.

Something that's not fitted to the Classic models then? My comfort model superb does this out of the box...

Has anyone had a decent aftermarket exhaust fitted to their superb? Mines coming up for replacement and I'd be looking for something stainless. I'm not after anything world endingly loud or brash, a decent burble would be nice though Any thoughts?

Correct, The later cars are all canbus driven, rosstech supply three different leads: HEX <-- early cars CAN <-- late cars based on canbus HEX+CAN <-- all cars HEX+CAN is the best lead to go with as it'll give you compatibility with anything ever made by the VAG group, it is however, slightly more expensive.

I think the manual for the Superb states that the little switch on top of the wiper stalk sets the sensitivity of the rain sensor, lemme check.

As Wardy says, using ebay generic cables you can only read/reset codes and read data blocks. However you cannot change settings without the £250 genuine lead, or a £70 software license. Thinking about it I should really put my name on the vag-com list