Jonny 0101

Did you manage to attach the Bones without lifting the boot?

Evening all, I've read some discussion on this here already, but can't find it now. Having bought a Saris bones 3 rack second hand, I endeavoured to fit it yesterday. Over 2 hours later, I had 2 bikes in the boot and 2 on the Saris. Main problems were, firstly fitting the lower straps to bottom of boot lid. I could not do this without lifting boot lid up slightly. This, in turn causes hatch huggers to move up into boot hinge area. This is exacerbated when opening boot further to get bikes out. Dealt with by slackening upper straps before opening boot, but still needed to lift up rack before closing boot down. On top of this, upper feet seemed to jump around a bit on rear windscreen, while driving, despite repeated tightening of straps. Am I just being a complete numpty, or is there a method to fixing this fella with minimal stress? Thanks for any advice.

Hello there. Do you still have floor mats? Mainly driver one I'm looking to replace, if in good condition. Could be interested in wheels too, are they for sale and what sort of condition? Cheers!

Thanks for replies. Only the dipstick itself which is 'shot', as far as I can tell. Will give it a go and post again if further assistance required.

Having spotted pieces of plastic crumbling from the dipstick, I have bought a new one along with the orange plastic funnel/ guide (as recommended by dealer). I'm just wondering how to get at the funnel and how to remove it. There appears to be a metal plate with pipes attached, which I'm assuming has to be removed to allow access. Will the old funnel just pull straight off and new one push on? Does anyone have any tips for easy replacement of this part? I've only been able to find details on Audi forum, but am hoping somebody here can suggest an easier method. Thanks for any assistance you can offer.

Ok, so how much would you expect postage to be to Suffolk? I have no idea! Was looking to spend no more than £250 in total to be honest. Any room for manoeuvre on the price? Thanks.

Hello again. Is the price for wheels inclusive of postage, or is this something that the buyer would have to sort? Have attempted to touch up kerbing marks, but not entirely happy with finish, so am considering a refurb. Your wheels could be an alternative! Cheers.

Hello there. Do you still have driver's mat and is it in reasonable condition?

Thanks for reply and pics. I see what you mean, badge remove and replace does look more finished off to my eyes. So, if you remove old badge, what are you attaching sticker to? Sorry for more questions, but I haven't quite grasped it yet!

Thanks for reply. I just want to confirm: prices - is the £6 for a set of 4 centre cap stickers, or each and £10 for bonnet emblem sticker? With the bonnet/ boot stickers is it just a case of sticking over the original badge or does original badge have to come out to apply sticker? My bonnet badge is rather cracked too, so not sure how well it would attach. Sorry for the questions, but not tried this before. Liking the designs by the way. Do you do bespoke design if image is sent to you? Cheers.

Hello there! Sorry if I'm being a bit dim, but are your stickers just 'stickers' or are you selling the actual centre cap etc with design attached? I'm looking to replace worn out centre caps on my mk1 octavia vrs. Having just prised the aluminium logo away from the cap, I'm wondering whether it's possible to attach a new logo rather than whole new centre cap. They seem a rather awkward shape, concave with dome in centre. Is that a problem for attaching stickers? Thanks for any help with this.

Thanks for reply. Plastic around my dipstick has begun crumbling, which is why I'm just looking at replacing stick only. Do you know if this is likely to cause a problem if I leave it? I've removed all loose bits.

Hello there! Do you have any floor mats left? I'm really just after a replacement driver's mat, if you're willing to separate. What state is the dipstick in? I'm guessing it may no longer exist! Any chance of separating the wheel centre caps from the wheels? My wheels are looking a bit tatty (mainly inside), but not sure I can justify buying replacement wheels at present. Thanks.

Hello, do you still have mats and if so are they same as standard vrs and in reasonable condition? I'm really just after replacing a 'holy' driver 's mat, but could be tempted to take the lot. Thanks!

Isofix fittings come as standard, but you'll find attaching base fairly tight due to shape of rear seats. Not really a problem though. Had my vRS since Feb. Brilliant car, fast, economical and practical, but spoilt by the number of times I've had to take it back to the dealers. Main problem was loss of turbo boost once engine turned off then on again. Took a long time to isolate the problem to a faulty accelerator pedal! On test driving, I would recommend checking for this one, as it's a pain to diagnose and leaves the car as a standard 1.8, which is not the point of buying a vRS. Unfortunately, this was not the end, as the engine warning light then came on for some time. Finally sorted that one, I think. Broken combustion valve. I would also check the electric window lock on the driver's door, as this can be temperamental. My car had only 52k on the clock when purchased, so in hindsight I would actually recommend buying a higher mileage car, where hopefully these niggles may have been sorted some time ago. If you don't mind £215 (soon to be £245) road tax, then this is a great family car.

I had a similar persistant problem for some time with my Octavia vRS. Boost was fine until the engine was switched off, then non-existent after restart. Turned out to be a new throttle pedal that sorted it. I still get a CEL, but no problems with performance or economy. Could be worth a try if all else fails?:confused:

:confused: Having had intermittent boost since buying my mark 1 Octy vRS, I recently returned it to the dealer who supposedly cured it with a replacement MAF and throttle body clean. On a recent drive to Wales, the car drove brilliantly with plenty of boost until I stopped at services. The remainding journey saw the car driving well, but the turbo whistle and boost at 2000 rpm had vanished. This was repeated on the return journey. What was also noticeable was that with the current mpg displayed, flooring it in fifth while boosting saw a figure of around 6mpg; while doing this without the boost would see a figure of around 13 mpg. The car has been back with the dealer for most of last week, and they replaced MAF again, checked all valves/ sensors and turbo, while getting their tuning bloke to check whether it was the remap causing the problem. None of these registered as faulty. I picked the car up today, supposedly cured by replacing a torn breather pipe (y-shaped one). I was shown the offending pipe, with a bloody great rip in it, which I am a little bit sus about, as I'm sure I checked this pipe visually. On driving the car away it was immediately apparent that there was no real turbo noise or pull at 2000rpm, but I couldn't face going back to the dealer again. This is really bugging me now, to the point where I would happily trade the car in for something 'turboless'. I like the car (a lot), but knowing that it's not always performing as it should makes me feel like I might as well have bought a bog standard car. Can anyone put me out of my misery? What else could cause this? What should the turbo sound and perform like? Would removing a supposedly quality remap cure the problem? Do I need to give the car time to adapt having been fiddled with a lot over the last week? With a wife in hospital and our first child due in less than 5 weeks, I really don't have the time to look into this issue any more. I want to just enjoy the car not end up loathing it for taking over my life! Rant over, thankyou for reading and even more thanks if you can offer a solution.

:confused: Still having some issues with the turbo. Boost is rather intermittent and the car is currently running smoothly, but with no turbo sound or real feeling of boost. It still has a month left on the warranty and dealer recently changed MAF and cleaned throttle body for me. His mechanic seemed pleased with how it was going, but I know it's not boosting like it should. Any suggestions, or do I just live with it? All help gratefully received, as this is starting to take over my life! :insane: P.S. Car supposedly has CMD remap. Could this be cause of problems? If so, I'll have dealer return it to standard.

Took my vRS back to the dealer yesterday to get mechanics to look at it. Sod's law being what it is, the car was running really well with an audible whistle on boost and enough urge to put a smile on my face. Still wanted it looked at, as this wasn't likely to last. Mechanics spent some hours over it and resulted in a new MAF sensor and cleaned throttle body. The drive home was whistle-free, which concerned me, but the car felt different and sounded it too. Wasn't convinced that this had really made much difference, until I drove it back from the gym tonight. Floored it in second and I swear I popped a wheelie, it had that much urge! No sign of a whistling turbo still (not sure if that is good or not), but hopefully performance will remain consistent now. Hope this works for you too, good luck.

Thanks. Did you try unplugging the MAF? If so, did it make any difference? Mine still seems to be running with no real boost, just pulls with no urge and virtually no sound except for a tiny little 'fart' on lifting off the accelerator. Starting to really regret trading my old Celica in at the moment, but gonna go back to the dealer again to get it looked at 'properly'. Good luck with yours.

:confused: The vRS has been running well recently, but still has the odd day when boost feels low and turbo goes a bit quiet. I took it back to the dealer who sold it to me this weekend as Skoda diagnostics picked up a fault code related to the temp sensor. Dealer said he would change it, but on arrival decided to run diagnostic test. This revealed no faults at all, so dealer decided not to change temp sensor. Car was running well on this day, so dealer took it out with me as passenger to see if he could note any issues. 100mph in third later, and slightly stained under garments, I really had no evidence of any problem and so left with nothing altered. It's been running really well since and I've put some BP Ultimate in the tank to see if that helps at all. Today, all good on the way to work, but on the way back boost seems barely noticeable and no real turbo noise on accelerating. What's going on? I'm really starting to become slightly obsessed over this, and would like to know that the boost will always be there when I need it. Thanks for any ideas on this.

:confused:Just looking for an answer to this question as the window lock works, but does not lock the windows immediately. Push switch and wait a few seconds, then they're locked and stay locked until switch pushed again. Was going to get dealer to have a look, but will leave alone if this is normal. Off thread a bit, but is it worth getting him to change temp sensor, as diagnostics flashed it up, but no issues except varied boost? Thanks.

Thanks Lummox. Don't think I was entirely clear in my post. Before the brake issue, the car seemed to have more boost on some days than others. Could this be caused by the temp sensor? Temp gauge needle moves up to 90 fairly quickly and stays there, while fuel consumption on last fill was 36mpg.

:confused:The VRS has been mainly on good form this week, but had diagnostic test carried out by Skoda today to see if anything may be causing odd blips in amount of boost from the turbo. Came back fine except for code 16502 P0118 engine coolant temp. circ. high input 'sporadic'. No engine warning light and mechanic said car was running fine. On the way home car lost virtually all power and I was left driving along dual carriageway at 10mph with my foot to the floor! Scary, I'll say. Managed to bring it back to life by letting off the accelerator then back on, and car suddenly gained more boost than I'd ever experienced from it. Plus, the turbo became noticeably louder. Got the car back to the Skoda garage where they ran another test to find the brake lights stuck on with relevant fault code and replaced brake light switch. Car is now running OK, but doesn't seem to have the oomph it had on being 'reborn'. What's going on? Does the temp sensor need changing, or could this brake issue have been the cause of my intermittent boost?

:confused: Driving the VRS back from work today, I noticed a lot more boost when the turbo kicked in and could hear more of a whooshing from it. Not having had the car long, never having had a turbo and being no mechanic, I'm a bit confused. I'd only driven 2 other VRS's and all seemed slightly different in performance and turbo noise. I never felt that mine was actually much faster than my old Celica when overtaking, but based on today's performance, it blows it away! My turbo has, until today, always been very quiet, with just a little whoosh as you let off the accelerator. Another VRS I drove had a very definite whistle as you accelerated. Something mine seems to lack, until today, when as well as the extra kick, I could definintely hear something going on before a louder whoosh. I guess I'm just trying to ask what is the norm and should I be concerned? The car was standing for some months I believe before I bought it, so could it have just got a bit seized and is now coming back to life? That's what it feels like from the driver's seat. I've already had to hassle the dealer I bought it from a bit, so do I add this to the list or just be grateful that the car seems to have more 'go' than I originally realised?