RSIMPS

http://www.ianhardy.net/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=17877 If you have an old one that would be great. I have quite a few random brake cylinder kits off other cars, so I might be able to source some seals. Put simo in front of email below, no space [email protected]

We couldn't do that as we were historic. The imps tend to run a sealed airbox off the twin webers, then a pipe runs through the bulkhead and into a round KN filter canister, then a pipe goes to the top of the rear window and into a scoop. They then change the filter at every service like you do. I tried running a filter in the rear grill (S100), but that would clog up after 6 miles on a dusty day. Anyway the car is in retirement now, so I don't have to worry about dust and water in the engine bay (that stopped us on the last Astra rally that ran).

One thing, get the largest filters on the carbs and fit a pre filter ie KN big filters with KN foam pre filters, or get a canister and take the air feed through the back panel and to an air scoop in the rear window. Otherwise you will kill the linners and piston rings if its dusty.

My brake and clutch cylinders are now weeping, so where do you get a new one from or a seal kit. Would the 19mm Estelle seals might fit? Also my handbrake pawl jumps off the side of the rachet. I an thinking of either taking the slack out of it or/and welding a bit to make the pawl wider. I have replaced the front calipers and discs, so hopefully I can get her MOT'd and back on the road after a long lay up.

I quite like the look of your car, very nice.

Dont paint it with cans they are crap! If you carnt afford 2 pack try a synthetic and ask around to find someone with spray equipment.

Strange you get use to seat belts. I am getting into vintage cars and you feel exposed. I am hoping to compete in one in the next year or so, so that means driving one quick without seat belts, brakes and an interesting gear change. So safety is relative, the worst you would expect in a field is a roll at low speed, its probably going to be a trip to A&E though.

There is no way I would want to sell my car for that money. It should have been worth more. Hope you put the money to a good use, like another Skoda.

Actually there were a few other car manufacturers that made cars that had the style and features of the beetle before the beetle was created, but Tatra must be one of the biggest influences of rear engine cars full stop.

Oulton Park Gold Cup - Sat/Sun 30th/31st August 2009 - 106 Rallye Register Forum Tom's ex dealer car

Which gives you higher pressure. ie it relieves at a higher pressure so the oil going round the engine is at a higher pressure. Flow is directly proportional to pressure. Viscosity is indirectly proportional to flow. The radius of the gallery is to the power 4. Basically if you double the radius you get 16 times the flow. Its not as simple as that, there are frictional loses in the gallery surface and oil and the oil needs to be the correct viscosity to do the job at the bearing end and the pump needs to be designed to pump the oil of the correct viscosity. If you just follow the physics/engineering calcs using 4-1 oil would increase the flow, but in reality the pump design would not pump it, it would probably cavitate the oil and it would not work as a very good lubricant. Use a new pump too! That's about the best you can do without redesigning the engine. You could try limiting flow to some areas, make sure the gallery to the bearings is not on the load side to help the oil flow on things like the crank journals (ie pluging one side of a cross drilling). These are general comments on engines. pretty much known about for the last 100 years.

replace voltage with current. ie if you blow water down a pipe to fresh air, you start with a presure and it drops to 0 when it flow to air. Like you start with 12v and at the other end, earth you get 0v.

pressure will increase flow to a degree. Fluid flow is pretty much like electrical flow and pressure like voltage. The pressure is the driving force and as oil goes through the galleries there is a pressure drop. An increase in pressure therefore can increase flow particulary at the end of the flow path. Its a sensible thing to do for a few pence and one that every works team did in period. Also run a grade up in the oil (I use 25/50 Vavoline racing) and fit a big oil cooler if you are thrashing it.

You put a stiffer spring in there or place washers under the spring.

Skofast might be able to get you a steel twin weber inlet off the shelf over in Czech. I use a kent grp a cam, some mini dual valve springs (I think they are super sport) with caps made to suit. A mpi head ported with even bigger valves (36 or 37 inlets and larger exhaust). 4 into 1 exhaust. A 136 dizzy with lumi fitted and mapped to the cam. Uprated oil pump with large oil cooler. Lightend and ballanced bottom end. Uprated grp A clutch cover. Larger pistons (just over 1300cc). This engine will tick over at 500 rpm and rev to 7500 rpm, but most of my gear changes come in at 6500-7200 rpm. It drives quite well as a road car. 10.5 :1 compression, also set liners up to the max setting and use higher head bolt torque. Large pulleys. Electric pump and larger fuel line.