Grant

Quick Update, I checked the connectors around the starter motor as suggested and two of the cables were broken. I repaired these and are now sound. I also discovered that the pump was covered in foam and a plastic case which was soaking in water. I guess this is the cause of the problem, that the pump's electrics are soaked through and have become faulty. I cleaned it up and dried it best I could. I also removed the steering sensor (previously replaced 2 years ago) and cleaned it and gave it a squirt of wd40, possibly not the best thing to do? Over the weekend it has worked fine a couple of times, but not worked since Monday morning now. Just done another vagcom Scan and got these faults 00566 - Steering Assistance Operation: Implausible Signal 01288 - Terminal 30; Steering Assist 00816 - Power Steering Sensor (G250) 00817 - ?? 01290 - ?? I've cleared these off and will check again when I get to work. I presume this would mean that the pump is completely gone now. Can anyone advise? Reading the Haynes manual it seems a fairly straight forward job to change. I've also read somewhere that there is/was two different makes of pump, as far as I can tell (its written on the filler cap) mines a TRW. Are these interchangeable, or is there been an updated revised model. I'd like to get this fixed as soon as possible for the convenience, and the possible legal side of things. Lastly how much fluid does the PAS system need for a full drain/refill? Thanks for reading.

Cheers guys :yes:

My power steering has stopped working. Doing a search on here would suggest that it is likely to be a connector that has worn through or the pump has died. I'm thinking it is the connector that has gone as it originally stopped working on Saturday, but has worked fine yesterday and today, but stopped working when I took the battery out to check the fluid level. I've also ran a Vag-com scan and its come back with error codes 00566 - Steering Assistance Operation: Implausible Signal and 01288 - Terminal 30; Steering Assist: Signal too High. These also suggested it is the connector. I'm not going to be able to have a look at it until Saturday at the earliest, apart from its really heavy, is it still OK to drive in the meantime with the pump not active? Thanks.

yes I was expecting a lot more as well, I only asked them for a quote as I went in for something else. I had pretty much decided on getting awesome's smf kit.

Just I quick update. I eventually bought a new DMF, clutch, pressure plate, release bearing and bolts from the local dealer for £280 all in. Three days later, the clutch failed on the way to work needing it to be towed. The centre of the clutch (white plastic bit) had broken away from the rest of it allowing it to spin freely, leaving me with out drive, see pic, the actual clutch had plenty of material left on. £180 later its been repaired, and i'm back on the road again, and its as quiet as new Not sure why it broke, but the garage that fitted it said it happens very occasionally.

Another question. Are all ATD engines and clutch/flywheels the same across all of VW Audi Skoda Seats?

Cheers for that Sarah. What's the pros / cons of the heavier flywheel? Also do you keep these in stock, and do you have a fitted price?

I've been reading up, and it seems that my dual mass flywheel is on the way out. Firstly how bad can they get before they actually break and damage something? At the moment you can feeling jolt when you let off the accelerator, slight juddering as you drive along at about 2200rpm in 2nd,3rd & 4th and there's lots of rattling noise at idle. There is no slippage in the clutch though. I'm keen to get it changed before it it too late. I've read a lot of people recommending a single mass conversion, with a performance clutch, i'm not too bother about that as it has standatd power and i'm not planning on remapping it. But I'm struggling to find anywhere online that sells either a single or dual mass with a clutch kit. I have read that a typical dealer price can be around £800 to done. The car is a 2001 Fabia 1.9tdi pd100 (Engine Code ATD) with a 5spd box Can anyone shed any light on the matter or help? Thanks.

Is this one (the Skoda original) the same for the PD100 as well as the VRS?

Possibly just the reverse gear cog spinning round with the input shaft. Does it rattle if you crawl forwards and put the clutch down?

Is this the same for the PD100 engine code ATD? And roughly how long did it take? Thanks.

Don't they still get all the MOT test done over the road at Polar Ford as they aren't actually a registered MOT centre?

I'm doing them as the old ones are worn out, not bothered if it'll make little difference. Skoda put them there for a reason in the first place. Secondly i'd prefer to get them done whilst the weather is decent(ish)

I've done some looking around, but can't find anything. I'm looking to change my rear axle's bushes on my Fabia (PD100), but can't find a guide on how to do them, or which ones to go for. I presume that Ibiza Cupra or Powerflex (unless they're udders) will be better than standard ones, but unsure which ones. I'm also unsure about how to do them, I've read Mark Sargeant19's guide for the Octavia, and think they are the same, but not definate. Hopefully they won't be as difficult as the front ones Can anyone shed any light on this? Thanks.

Spare parts guy always seems uninterested to help, but usually gets the right parts. I booked car in for a cambelt change and a Inspection service, was booked in a 8.00, waited till 9.00 and nobody had turned up to open up. Were very flippant and unapologetic when I phoned later. (I went elsewhere after). Broke my locking wheel nuts with an air gun on another service, offered no help to sort it out, I had to drill them out eventually taking up a weekend and a few drill bits. and forgot to stamp my log book.