mountainmark

I've just come across this post - as I have a knackered 6Y0 035 411 C speaker in front of me, and the various alternative part numbers are invaluable - thanks! Also, by my (admittedly sloppy) measuring, the depth from the back of the magnet to the front of the casing is 57mm,

With my original problem, we ended up having to take it to the local Skoda main dealer, who proposed replacing the control units for both the front and rear LHS doors. In the event, they only needed to change the N/S/F door control unit the code for which was S1T0959702SZ0L, priced at £266, so with labour & VAT it was £760 :( . Hope that helps!

Just to conclude my tale... I was able to access the right hand connection box behind the windscreen wiper motor (as above) and used a soldering iron to melt some of the insulation off the blue wire, to confirm it was 11.5 volts there, and that also no onward connection from there to a similar spot just before the alternator connector. I soldered in a new wire between those two points. The battery warning light now working again, and there is 14.5V across the battery terminals with the engine running. Thanks again for your help Wino!

Wino, re-reading your comment about it being the pin nearest the rounded end... I'd been assuming (Doh! ) that it was the other one, as that one had the voltage and the other (ie correct) one had only a minimal voltage! My mistake . I'll check the end to end continuity this week - thanks again for your helpful advice.

Thanks Wino! My, apologies I hadn't seen your post until just now, when I came to add the following update. I was able to access the regulator end of the alternator in situ, and had a cursory attempt at cleaning the slip rings - the resistance between them was ~2.7 Ohms, so I guess any tarnishing wasn't too bad. I've now replaced the regulator/brushes, and retested. The voltage across the battery terminals with the engine idling was still ~11.9V, (and the battery warning light still doesn't come on), but if I increase the revs to ~3,000rpm, then the alternator seems to kick in, as the voltage across the battery is now 14.5V (when idling afterwards). Am I right in thinking it is still worth testing the current flow to ground from the blue wire?

Thanks again for the advice - I'll give that a go - tho' I may wait a day or two for the temperature to rise a bit!

Hey thanks for the help. It's a Bosch alternator, and the voltage across the battery when the engine is running is ~12.1V (even after sustained revving), which is somewhat lower than the 12.5V when the engine isn't running. It's fair to say the car hasn't been out much, but not drastically less than usual.

My car battery went completely flat on a short shopping trip a couple of days ago. Which led me to this and related posts, as the battery warning light isn't coming on (and I think it used to). Consequently I was pretty confident it'd be the snapped blue wire problem. However, before I tried to access the onboard supply control unit, I tested the voltage on the (disconnected) alternator end of the blue wire, and it's at 11.7V with the ignition turned on, or 11.4V with the engine idling (and the voltage across the re-charged battery is ~12.5V without the engine running and ~12.1V with it running - even up to 3,000+revs). Can anyone suggest where I should be looking for a fault? Alternator bushes? Thanks! (My Fabia is a 2004 1.4 Tdi 6Y2144 with an AMF engine)

Brilliant - that's so helpful, thank you

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I'm trying to trace my 2004 Fabia's blue wire, and all the image links in this excellent post are dead: is there any possibility of resurrecting them? Or other images of the onboard supply control unit in situ?

Hi everyone, I'm hoping someone will be kind enough to point me in the right direction with a problem that's occurred with my 2011 Octavia Mk2 estate. It has been stood on the drive for the last few days during very wet weather, and when I come to use it, neither of the front or rear passenger side (LHS) doors will unlock (either from the remote, the central switch, or using the interior handles); the windows on the passenger side have also stopped working (from driver's or individual switches); the passenger wing mirror no longer adjusts; and the indicator light on the passenger wing mirror has also stopped working. I've read all the posts I can find, and studied the circuit diagrams, but I'm puzzled as I would have expected a fault to either affect just the front passenger door, or both rear doors. Any suggestions as to where to start looking for a cause would be appreciated.