Magpie2009

Well a few months have gone by and I thought I'd update on this for anyone with similar problems. Basically the central locking has worked perfectly since fitting a new battery. So if you're having similar issues and you've checked out the door connector and wiring and your battery is a few years old this could well be the cause.

Its F38 that I needed to remove for the central locking. This also cuts power to fuel flap and electric mirrors, but doesn't stop the boot lock operation so I removed connector for this as well. I did this after going out one morning and hearing all the door locks constantly relocking themselves which is what I believed was causing the battery to go flat. I checked as much of the relevant wiring etc I could but couldn't find any corroded/chaffed wiring, so I left the fuse and connector out and the car started OK. This last week the flat battery problems returned though. I reckon the battery was the original (nearly 12 yrs old now) so decided that the central locking problems flattening the battery and the recent cold spell had finally knackered it and that now I had two problems - dodgy central locking and duff battery. A new battery had to be the first step and has now been fitted for a few days. Might be a bit early to say but the central locking problem has disappeared again - what chance all this being due to the battery actually being on the way out anyway. To be honest I would have thought I'd have problems starting the car before seeing other electrical problems?

My 2001 VRS has recently started having issues with the central locking. When I unlock the doors with either the key or remote, all doors almost immediately relock - you have to be quick to open the drivers door to get in. This in itself wouldn't be too bad but it is causing the cars battery to become flat. I've read through the many threads and initially checked the prime suspects - corrosion of connector in door and wiring between door and A pillar, all initially looks OK. I'll need to dig a bit further. To try and prevent the battery flattening I've removed the 5A fuse from F6 = central locking control unit. I thought that this would stop the central locking working altogether but it seems to still work via the remote. Interestingly the doors didn't relock this time. However there is no control of the locking of doors or opening/shutting of windows from the drivers door control or opening the windows via the individual switches on the other doors. I'm not sure this is such a good idea when driving the car but will leave the fuse out for now to see if it stops the battery discharging when not in use. I'll pop the fuse back in when driving I obviously need to find the root cause of the problem but is there a better option than that described above?

50/100 up for sale at Horton Skoda Lincoln £6000 ! Looks a lot different to the pics posted on this thread Sept 2009. Stickers all gone and alloys now black. 64,000 miles - exterior looks perfect.

Sounds very similar to mine - the idling on my 2001 vrs doesn't seem quite right and then does exactly as you describe but not as often. Also on start up sometimes the revs don't get up above 500rpm no matter how hard I press the accelerator. switching engine off and back on is only way to get going. First started playing up around March last year and seemed to clear when the weather got warmer. Come October problem started again so suspected it was a damp weather issue. Left it with the local garage who couldn't find a problem with it. Took it away expecting to to be cursing them before I got very far but has been fine till now! Would be interested to know how you got on with the throttle body cleaning and whether it cured the problem.

Thanks for replies I can save £25 a tyre at camskill (£66 for 225/45, £91 for 205/50) so very tempted. What's the effect on mpg - looking to save money main reason to change for me, but will they cost me more in petrol over the life of the tyre? According to trip computer typically get 32 to 33 mpg average over 2000 miles

Hi I have got Toyo T1R 205 50 R17 tyres fitted all round on my octy vrs and the fronts are well ready for replacement. I have read lots of posts saying go for 225 45 R17 as they are a lot cheaper. A few questions though Can I replace 2 now and the other 2 and the spare later? Would the new ones need to go on the front, back or does it not matter? Is it something that my insurance company will be interested in as they are not std anymore? If I need to use the spare which is a 205 50 R17 to replace one of the new 225 45 R17 is it dangerous? Thanks

Got 18K out of the front from my factory fitted 17" 205 50 contis on my 2001 std octy vrs Now I've got 17" Toyos T1Rs fitted front and back I've double checked when they were fitted and i've done 20K and the fronts have a little more than 2mm left and are ready to change. I guess i can't be steaming around like some people all the time and having a std vrs probably helps but I don't drive slow on the mostly A and B roads round here. I like to beat people away from the lights at every opportunity and have hit the rev limiter several times when I've got it wrong. Some people must be seriously heavy footed! Overall i'm happy with the Toyos and would buy them again.