huwants2no

mine doesnt have that and can change shocks out without removing the springs thanks

rears you dont have to compress the spring so bit easier and not everyone has that compression tool i guess. i remember using the allen key and ring spanner on the fronts on mk1 vrs. think the mk2 IZ front are similar in that sense thanks for the info

i doubt these have been changed out before so standard from the factory. think i can just grab the top with vice grips carefully thanks for reply unfortunately dont have impact gun

Hi am about to replace the rear shocks on a 2007 tdi octavia. has someone done this and has any advice/tips? the nut on top of the shocks seems to need a torx bit and a spanner to take off the top mount but that could be wrong. wasnt easy to see on a video i watched. any pointers welcome nice to see the forum still going good!!

Think ill get a new battery and go from there. Just waiting for lend of a multimeter to check it. Everything looks ok on the alternator end

Battery light is coming on when turn electrics on. Can only see 2 connections at back of alternator, one big chunky one like an earth and that looks ok and the other just a normal plug in click connection also ok. Is one of them the sense wire You're referring to?

ok great thanks Phil. will check this in the morning

already did. its fine thanks

ok. just preface this by saying I did a clutch replacement over xmas hols so there was earth cables disconnected etc but I did try and follow everything carefully and connect everything back the right way... Anyhow, first time i tried to start car after the clutch job the battery was flat as hell. so i jumped it and it went ok. but i remember over the next week i did have to jump it a couple of mornings! then ran well for bit. When we hit the snow there last week the car was sitting for bout 4 days i think without start. Went for a spin and it started no bother but the next morning i tried the battery was flat again Grrrrrrr So today i jumped it and drove about 30 miles round trip. on the drive i had the ABS,traction control light and the handbrake light flash on n off quickly accompanied by 3 bongs. it did this a few times but it also did a weird thing of like everything shutting down for a split second...like engine was cutting out, all dash lights going, like it was dying on the spot but only for split second, then came back to life The battery terminals are good and tight rite now Would a battery normally go dead just because it is disconnected? Im thinking not... The alternator was refurbished bout 18 months ago Should i get a new battery and give that a go and see how she performs then or are there other things i can try also thanks in advance!!! this site has been awesome for me as a guy who had never really touched a a wrench before getting this car. I never would have dreamed about replacing a clutch on a car without having built up some confidence over the years from bits of DIY i did, usually following guides from here!! anyways, all suggestions welcome

Its actually 2 hoses. Even tho only one of mine is split both hoses that go into the oil cooler are joined together so looks like im replacing both

Cheers mate. Will have a google so. Would be very handy

That looks rite mate. Is that catalogue something u can view online? Thanks for that

Anyone know the part number for the hose with cable ties on it in the pic. Coolant hose that runs around into the oil cooler Thanks

Ignore that post. Got it sorted

Anyone know is it a 20 socket on if i get someone to hold the crank while i undo the flywheel bolts. Ive only 21 and dont want to wreck the head. Its a weird star shape nut on the crank?

Thanks. Saw that one. Its used. I thought mine was broken cus its a weurd shape on the driveshaft side but half hoping now it wont be. Will know shortly when the flywheels off

Yeah sorry. Proper name is coverplate. The PN i got off the local dealer. Thanks for that

Found it 06A103645D Pricey bugger... 63 euro from dealer ECS do one aswel

Anyone know the part number for the gasket between gearbox and engine.? Seems to be dealer only

ok.have the parts to go in...regarding the driveshafts in making room to take out the transmission do I just unbolt the 6 bolts on each shaft at the engine end of them or do I need to completely remove the shafts or maybe the passenger side shaft? Its the one bit on a few different videos Ive watched thats not 100% clear...can someone explain a bit whats best way to go. I know a lot of guys on here have done the clutch!! thanks

Guys has anyone used one of these tools doing the clutch. Says for single plate clutches and ones with no pilot bearing!??

Not confidence inspiring lol Thanks. Thats what i thought or saw watching vids Will check around the forums some more and try find a good guide

Gonna have a go at changing the clutch myself to try save a few quid. Am still in process of watching vids and gathering info etc but just read something about loosing oil as you take 'driveshaft cups' out I was thinking i didnt need to loose any oil... Can someone explain if they got a few mins what i need to do with driveshafts to let me remove the gearbox to get access to clutch etc Thanks

Anyone know if this tool will work replacing clutch in mk1 vrs octy http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?storeId=11101&productId=203553&srch=Clutch+allignment&categoryId=317962&langId=-1&catalogId=15551 Am going with a conversion kit to smf if that makes any difference

The 2nd one is National. Just what folks were saying about while there mite as well do flywheel. Its got 185k miles on it