alex.hayes73

Stickymicky That is spot on thank you mate

Hi All, Mk1 2004 Octavia vRS I have an issue with my gearbox which currently will not go in to first all other gears are perfect? I have already tried the following to remedy the issue but still no first? 1. Adjust & re-adjust the linkages multiple times. 2. Changed gear oil. 3. Changed selector tower. Basically the gate feels blocked like on the 6 speed when the rivets sheer & the fork is not connected to the shaft. I have been trying to find an exploded 02J EHA or any 5 speed 02J diagran to see what might of gone wrong before I pull the gearbox out for the 3rd time 1. broke orginal 2. replaced with SMF & 2nd hand box (lasted 6 weeks before the cup bearings shattered holing the bellhousing & jamming the diff. 3. replaced with original box to be mobile. All advice & ideas welcomed, Cheers Al

How much for the front bumber & G/box mate? managed to break me bumper & first gear in one sitting!

Sorry I haven't replied I have been a little busy to say the least. Glad it's sorted & anytime buddy. Side note broke first gear in mine 4 weeks ago....yup 22 carot plonker

Oh you can buy the pump & sender seperately & don't buy secand hand one I did that then spent weeks testing ECU Relays wiring only to discover the 2nd hand pump was faulty

Looks like this mate & is located as Mankee says here & if I remember correctly is position 4. There is also a relay behind the battery to trigger the ECU but to be honest it sounds like your pump is on the way out or the sender unit on the top as the Kangaroo effect is generally when the pump is eith not pump as it's failing or the 3gauge sender is telling you you have fuel but in fact thetank is empty or close too it.

Hi All, I have a 2004 Octavia VRS which I had a very minor collision with a curb on the drivers side a couple of weeks ago after which I had lost 1st gear since then I have adjust the linkages etc & still no 1st even trying to manually engage with engine off via the selector shaft on top of the gearbox as shown below, all other gears select absolute fine & it drives as normal using 2nd to pull away? Coulld a bush on the saft be damaged as I cannot feel the gate when trying to select 1st almost like there is an obstruction? Can I remove the selector shaft to check for any damage?

MK1 VRS 53 Reg early 2004 car AUQ

Top man thank you very much for your help :-) I'm going to test the feed on Pin 2 from fuse 2 on bat but I have ordered a new Relay £38.00 from ebay :-) I also this guide on VWVORTEX http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5427024-Testing-Fuel-Pump-Problems-amp-Solutions-thread Think once mine is running I will collate the information you have provided on the pin-outs with the below & see if it can be added to the troubling shooting page or similar :-) Questions to help diagnose: 1) when you open the driver door, do you hear the buzzing noise from under the car? If you hear that, your fuel pump is working. Your problem is not the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, or fuel pump fuse. Stop reading this thread, it does not apply to you. If you do not hear the buzzing noise when you open the driver door, the fuel pump is not priming. Continue to step 2. 2) Does your interior dome light turn on when the door is open? Does the door chime sound when the key is in ignition and the door is opened? If the answer to both of those is "no", then your door latch microswitch is not working correctly. Go search for threads on how to fix that problem. If the dome lights turn on with the door open, continue to step 3. 3) Is fuse #28 blown? That is the fuel pump fuse. If it is blown, try replacing it (15A fuse) and see if normal operation resumes. Warning: blowing that fuse is usually indicative of a relay and/or pump going bad! If it blows when you put a new fuse in and turn the ignition on, continue to step 5. If nothing happens when you replace it, go to step 4. 4) Test the fuse location with a test light or mutimeter to see if there is 12V+ when the key is on. If there is 12V+, go to step 6. If there is not, go to step 5. 5) Check fuel pump relay. It's the 4th from the left on the bottom row of relays, under the dash. The label next to it says "diesel F". It's relay #409, part # 1J0 906 383 C. Costs about $43 online, and $66 at the dealer. I'll let the experts weigh in here on how to "properly" test the relay. Here are two possible methods that don't involve using jumpers in the fuse block or trying to wiggle a multimeter in there: 1) Borrow a 409 relay from anyone else who has a Mk4. Swap it in. If your fuel pump works with their relay in there, you've found the problem. This is by far the easiest way to test. Everyone knows someone else with a Mk4 - doesn't matter what model. 2) Go to step 6 & test the fuel pump itself, thus determining the relay was faulty. 6) Test fuel pump & connector. It's located under the right rear passenger seat. Remove the lower cushion, and fold the square flap forward to access the panel. Remove the 3 screws and pry up the coverpanel gently. Check to see the main connection is in decent shape. Some of them are defective and come loose. Use a multimeter and see if it's getting voltage at the outer connections on the terminals. If there is no voltage, the relay may be the problem. If you have a small battery (RC car battery works nicely) for testing, use the outer connections on the cover to the fuel pump to see if the pump operates when you apply current. Alternately, you can use a square 9V battery with a couple of leads from it. That should give enough current to see if the motor at least turns with current applied. It's a loud little thing, will be very evident whether it works or not. If the motor works when you apply current, the relay may be faulty or the connector may be faulty. You'll have to do some more circuit testing to see what the deal is. If the motor does not work when you apply current, the motor is toast. Replace it.

Ah hang on the relay is triggered by the ignition then hence the 7 pin relay thus completing the circuit & allowing 12v

have just been to double check, with ignition & relay unplugged I get no voltage across the fuse turn ignition on & I get 1.8v this I think indicates that the fuse is before the relay not after & potentially a wiring or ignition switch issue. I may just order a 2nd hand relay just to test as I can get one for £10 from ebay

Thanks bspman, I am mobile now have borrowed a car from a family member so no immediate rush think i'll purchase VCDS Lite when they guys at Ross tech are back, I'm at the pont of ordering a Haynes manual for the wiring diags as Im only getting 1.8v at fuse 28 & this should be 12v or there abouts but I have no idea where its fed from as that appears to be the fault to be honest its driving my MAD lol

Thanks Wino. I have establish that fuse 28 is only receiving 1.8v which is clearly the source of my problem can anybody tell me were this is fed from or does any one have a wiring diagram I can study as it appears this is a permanent live I have verified this by removing the Relay & testing the fuse the ignition in the on & off positions, Cheers Alex

Hi All, Can anyone advise on what voltage I should be getting at fuse 28 (Fuel pump) as after testing I am seeing only 1.8v & assumed I should be getting around 12v? Many thanks Alex

I'm going to say the relay contacts are stuffed lol