ugluk

Not so sure about that, its not my only car. Ive got others for playing. The whole point of having the fabia is to keep the fuel bill down when either not hauling the whole family or going out for a play. Im quite enjoying seeing what I can do with the different mpg counters...

Dont I have to worry about killing the dual mass flywheel driving around at too low rpm? At the moment trying to keep between 1500-2500 rpm

So talk of 10-20% mpg gains are BS? Thought it might be worth asking here instead of going by advertising.

Ok Ive got a 2004 1.9 TDI Elegance Estate with 103k on the clock and a full service history. This is my run around, Driven in traffic and around town and not expected to be "raced". It does quite well on fuel as it is, slightly beating book figures at around 45mpg round town, but thinking of a remap mainly to improve things further. Do remapping companies offer a remap that prioritises efficiency whilst giving some performance gains, or is it just a case that you get a remap performance goes up and whatever you gain in efficiency is a bonus? What are peoples real world experience of fuel economy gains from remapping? Where is a good place to go for remapping in the southwest? Im in South Devon, The closer the better but am prepared to travel if necesary.

Depends on whats wrong with it, your local (dieing breed) TC repair place might be able to handle it. I doubt theres many old school computer engineer companies left around, I used to work (many years ago) for a computer consultancy where we did actual component level repairs including to CRT's, but these days most local computer companies are of the reinstall windows or repalce the board variety. I love my CRT's for high resolution gaming, have yet to see a LCD panel to compare :(. I've got a sony19" at work great for word processing but really doesnt make games look good.

OK so a week ago I read a story Skippi the kangaroo in southern Germany has been on the run since early august, well hes turned up not far from where he wentmissing in an area where there had been lots of sightings and hes been in an accident with a car and died on the scene. The owner refuses to identify the body saying it cant be skippi, the police say case closed. I was thinking the owner doesnt want to be responsiblefor car damage or something.. Skippi the German kangaroo dies in road smash - New Zealand's source for oddstuff - strange, weird & bizarre news on Stuff.co.nz Now today Skippi the kangaroo in southern germany has been on the run since early august and hes turned up with a minor injury and been returned home. No mention of the previous story. Life on the lam ends for Skippi the kangaroo the truth is out there somewhere....

If you are talking about taking a petrol felicia and converting it to diesel, I would say dont bother. Far easier to pick up a diesel car from the start, far too much messing around with different fuelling systems and electricals etc. Definetely not a job for a novice! I thought you had a felicia with a dead \ dieing diesel engine and wanted to replace it with another one.

Its not overly complicated or requiring super skills for a like for like transplant. there will be some heavy lifting and some well seized nuts and bolts, best to have a friend who knows his tools helping out to deal with them, last thing you want to do is strip a thread or break a bolt head etc. cost wise dont know the specifics for this engine, best to allow for a set of inlet exhaust gaskets, oil, oil filter etc etc, possibly engine crane rental and possibly some hoses not huge money but it can add up. As with most car related things something unexpected can turn up . Be carefull with how you use the engine crane, dont want to damage paintwork or toes . Ive seen some decidedly dodgy lash ups involved in engine \ gearbox work

Yep we need to know what the champiosnhip regs are, Im guessing hes planning on going group B9 though, its going to be more difficult to compete in class there than in group N you will be quicker on the stage in a group B9 car but possibly slower in class. I could still compete with later group N cars in my stock engined carb powered favorit due to the older model being so light and nimble. I can keep pace with Group N cars with double the power to weight ratio! But up against some of the group B9 stuff I think I'd struggle even with significantly more power. Ive heard some pretty scary figures out of some of those B9 guys - 190hp out of a 1400 engine with a car weighing at around 750kg was the last I heard! Id far rather stick it out amongst the group N pug 106's. When you say 120hp out of the standard pushrod engine, certainly with the stock bottom end you can get 120, but to get more than 90ish out of it you need to do a lot with the cam and head, as well as fuelling manifold and exhaust. Ive heard from a UK based skoda engine builder that he reckons the stock crank and rods are good for about 8000rpm, not sure I would want to push them that far regularly. The problem with the felicia MPI is that theres a lot of wiring you need to gut out and completely replace to return to a traditional carb and dizzy setup. Theres all that immobiliser rubbish and setting up new control etc for the fuel pump wiring in your new ignition system etc sorting out dash lights. I know it doesnt sound a lot but it can take weeks and weeks of working evenings to do that sort of conversion :( as well as leading to lots of bang the head on the garage wall. The strict international group A regs hamstrung the favorits compared to what could have been done with better fuelling valve sizes and more cam freedom, even the later 1500 felicia kit car producing circa 150hp was somewhat limited by Group A class restrictions but with a VERY clever 8 injector throttlebody setup. a privateer running group B regs could have exceeded 150hp out of that engine. Many UK championships were far less strict about group A regs than what the works cars had to contend with. Its always a tough choice as to what class you head for especially when the budget is limited. Group B will get you going quicker for your money, but far less chance of class wins on big championships, group N will be slowest but best chance of class performance, group A will be expensive for a felicia because most chapionships would require it to stay injection instead of going carbs.

The 1.3 skoda engine is good for 90hp in group N form, The secret is in the correct map and higher flow injectors and a well designed exhaust system I had some long debates with the builder of your exhaust system about exhaust theory, He believed bigger was better full stop I believed optimised to engine flow was better. I had a SMS ECU on my car that cost about

No I am NOT having driven cars with the abs disableable on a switch ABS adds a big percentage to stopping distances across even dry tarmac.

Well thats something learnt for today , I can go back to bed now . Ive only seen them advertised with the 1.6 engine If I had known they had a 1.3 as well Id have had one years ago . Best low cost modifying for the 1.3 engine is to get a cat replacement pipe made up which you bolt up between MoT's or keep it in place if your engines running clean enough to pass without the cat (mine generally do, but have had some people saying theres dont). After the car replacement pipe getting an exhaust made up with no centre box and a free flowing rear box is the next step, no need to go large and avoid boy racerery back boxs like the plague most of them are all about looks and noise, Personally I like a small janspeed box. I would recommend keeping the original air ducting in place to begin with and replaceing the air filter element with a K+N version. Would also recommend a good service with good plugs (and leads if its a SPI) Other areas of tuning though can increase your speed without increasing your power, green stuff brake pads are good, some nice grippy tyres, and a thorough service of the rear brakes and some braided brake hoses will all help. If you can afford it HP coil over suspension will transform the handling.

I thought the L+K only came with the 1.6 engine around 98 ish? Tuning for the 1.3 and 1.6 is quite different. I thought the 96 special edition was the bohemia? tuning is very different for the two engines.

Never seen ABS on a favorit either although I wouldnt write off the idea it was ever fitted, theres been so many weird and wonderful favorit variants out there. Why would you want ABS though? horrible stuff interfereing with real braking and extending braking distances massively. Far rather buy decent tyres and brake linings.

The engine itself is VERY tuneable, and the difference between MPI and SPI is far more negligible than slow or fast. The bigger difference is high compression or low compression variants of the same engine. The injection side of things though is more tricky, no more so though than MPI. The engines respond very well to tuning in traditional areas, improving the breathing at both ends and flow through the head will give very good results, BUT as with any injection cars altering the fuelling requires more than a resistor of doom. It can cost more to buy a good programmable throttle body and ecu setup than it does to go for a all singing and dancing racing engine build up :(. 150hp + is attainable out of the SPI engine once you ditch the injection setup. 130 is acheivable realtively easily. But the injection system itself is the limitation, jsut as it is on a MPI equipped car. You would be hard pressed to get much more than 10-15% power increase out of either SPI or MPI considering the starting difference between the two is 1-2bhp and both systems need scrapping if you want serious gains Id say go with what youve got, (unless its a low compression engine). The engine itself is superbly tuneable but the injection system is good only for mild tuning. The ONLY advantages a MPI engine has over the SPI engine mechanically are slightly narrower valve stems and slight better port shapes, both of which will be of no benefit when you go for serious tuning anyway!