milnei

Maybe the latest vRS takes the EA888 engine then. But I'd rather trust wiki than a salesman......

Hang on a sec, if you read the wiki carefully you'll see that the 2.0 TFSi engine DOES use a belt. Only the latest 2.0 TFSi engine (not currently used on the vRS) has the chain. 2.0 R4 16v TFSI 125-210kW (EA113) as used on Octavia vRS and Mk5 Golf GTi - "belt and roller-chain driven double overhead camshaft (DOHC)" - the chains are part of the camshaft timing, however it's a belt that drives the system from the crank. 2.0 R4 16v TSI/TFSI 132-155kW (EA888) (The latest 2.0 TSFi) as used on the Mk6 Golf GTi- "This all-new EA888 range is notable for utilising simplex roller chains to drive the two overhead camshafts, instead of the former engines' toothed-rubber timing belt" So us vRS owners need to save those pennies for the inevitable cambelt change......... :'(

Have you tried the Pure external antenna. It's a massive improvement over the stickon one but doesn't need any power etc. I'm only upgrading because the Pure external one still isn't good enough over my whole commute but is fine for 80% of it.

Just a quicky, does anyone know what type the connection is at the roof antenna on an 07 Octavia vRS (without satnav if that makes any difference) I'm planning to replace the existing antenna with an amplified AM/FM and DAB antenna to improve the DAB reception into my Pure Highway. This is what I'm planning to buy Kinetic DRA 1001 which has a Hirshmann 10mm connection for the AM/FM antenna cable, does the existing antenna have this type so I can simply swap antenna's over, or will I have to make an adaptor? Thanks in advance.

Hmm, I've had someone pop round before (no names) and asked £20 for basically doing nothing. He didn't really know what he was doing, I had to lead him through what I wanted based on instructions from here. I felt ripped off as I was training him but still had to pay. I'd rather go to someone who obviously knows their stuff and be happy to pay for the service (and pop in to see my Mum at the same time as she lives in Hinckley).

Popped mine in last night and well chuffed wth the result too By the way I think it's hit and miss regarding HID kits being CANBUs friendly. I have a set that I bought about 3 years ago off ebay, cheapo set at around £50 in those days. It's a 35w set but said nothing about CANBUS but I wasn't bothered then as I was fitting them to a Mazda 6. When the Mazda died (RIP) I took the HID kit out and fitted it into my 07 vRS. The result is mainly good. I have the auto lights option and roughly 50% of the time when the auto function calls for the lights to come on whilst the car is running e.g. if the light level drops or I exceed 90mph (which NEVER happens of course) then the nearside light will fail to come on and I get bulb failure warning. This can be solved by turning the lights completely off, then back to auto and the lights then work. Under all other scenarios the lights are fine which is odd as the auto lights function will call for the lights when unlocking the car but the lights never fail under those circumstances. I get round this by just running the lights always on (as if I had DRL function) as they switch themselves off with the coming home function so I never have to bother with them. Anyway, next time I'm in Hinckley I'll get the coding done by Hauptmann so the light will always work on auto switching

Oh bugger, I've only gone an bought exactly the same LEDs you rejected, but only paid £20ish quid but still..... Lovely write-ups, but I did notice that you haven't given us a clue to where the High Pressure AC connection is in the fuse box..... I'll press on with the 8 LED versions I've got and see if I'm happy with them (although knowing that the 5s are even better will gnaw away at my brain)

Just seen the dumb ass BMW driver with the snow socks picture, PMSL :rofl: :rofl: Seriously though, might need to get a set myself. My vRS on Pilot Sport 3s was completely useless. It's not that I can't drive in the snow as the day before I'd driven 50 miles through it in SWMBO's Renault Modus, including the last 100 yards snow ploughing to our house through 12" fresh snow.

Hauptmann, PM sent

I had a long spell of the Emmisions light coming on, then going to the dealers who couldn't find any fault and switching the light off, then it coming back again after a month or so. Eventually, they changed the 'Carbon Canister' and everything has been sweet since (over 1 year). I thought only Diesels had carbon canisters, but what the heck, it's fixed!

Carl. When I did some a while ago on my vRS I used CCFLs (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Light) but they proved to be unreliable. I'm fitting some LED units soon though. The big problem I found was locating an ignition switched feed in the engine bay. I wanted the lights on all the time (not just with the side lights). After hours of poking around in the fuse and relay box with a multimeter and test lamps the canbus logic got the better of me. What appeared to be switched feeds suddenly became permanent when a load was applied and vica-versa..... In the end I ran a feed from the dash fusebox through the engine bay to provide the switched feed. Just wondering if anyone else has found one in the engine bay??

Hmm, confused (as nev bear would say). Pagey, the 027 does fit, but it was definately shorter than the old one, maybe different levels of factory fitted options lead to different batteries being fitted..? Did yours have a thermal jacket round it, and if so was it the correct size for the 027. One thing that might make mine different is that it's a Malta import at first reg, but quite why that would call for a large battery is beyond me.

Hi all. Recently had to replace the original battery in my 07 vRS. After searching on line, using the battery guides, they all pointed towards a type 027 battery. I found one with a decent Ah and CC rating with a good price and ordered it. However, it's around an inch shorter than the original one! Fortunately it fits and will do for now, but I'd like to get the proper one if possible (I have an MG TF 160 that needs a new battery so I could make use of the 027 in there). Does anyone know what the correct battery code or size is for the vRS. I know I could measure my old one but does it have a code or type number that makes it easier to search on line for. Thanks.

Hmm, ditto, Michelin PS3 on the back now with sawtooth Uniroyal Rainsport 2s on the front. Considering switching the ASR off and doing some burnouts

Hmm, this has got me thinking. I noticed a steady increase in road noise from the rear since buying Uniroyal Rainsport 2s last October. I thought the original Bridgestones were a bit noisy but these were getting ridiculous! It was getting so bad that I considered it was my rear bearings failing instead of the tyres. Then I had an unrepairable front puncture and since the fronts were 75% worn I decided to get a new pair instead of replace the one tyre. I always fit new tyres on the rear so when the Rainsports were removed from the back I noticed very strange wear on them. Now I know what feathered tread blocks look like, but this was something else! In side view each tread block was worn into a wedge shape, I would guess that the difference in height front to back of each block on the outer quarters of the tyres was at least 1.5mm. When these were fitted to the front, my god, what a racket. It now sounds like the front bearings have actually failed it's that bad! In contrast, the Michelin PS3s that are now on the back are silent! When the Uniroyals were fitted last October the alignment was fully checked and was spot on, but spot on to what I now ask, new or old specification?? Me thinks I need to re-visit the garage and get it checked before I ruin the PS3s.