Bosco1980

Reckon you'll sell it fast fella. Plenty of car for not a lot! I know how well you look after your cars, better than you look after the mrs!

Thanks Raf, it's about 30 pounds cheaper when selecting the immobiliser option!

Am i right in thinking that the mk1 vrs came with just a factory fitted immobiliser. Just looking into renewing my insurance and it came up as a thatcham cat2 alarm. Cheers.

Mine sounds like that all the time. Bugs me a bit, but just put it down to the way the 1.8t engine runs. Done it all the time I've had the car (5 years!) and 50k miles later it still pulls as strong!

It was a guy from the Leeds dealership, that's where the body shop is. It could well be that the mk2 is a 12 year warranty??? Mine would still qualify under 10 years as it was registered in June 03.

I did question the 12 year warranty but he was pretty certain. He said they had done quite a few mk1 Octavias already, so it wasn't the first time he had encountered the problem. They apparently fit some sort of rubber seal between the boot and light cluster/handle.

Took my octavia estate to dm Keith's in Leeds last week to see if I would qualify as I have the blistering around the number plate (very similar to yours) and also where the glass meets the tailgate. The really helpful and enthusiastic guy took some photos and details and sent them to skoda uk. He was pretty confident it would qualify. He phoned me the next day to say they would do it. Just need to set the date. My car is on an 03 plate and he told me it was a 12 year corrosion warranty. A fairly painless experience for me. Good luck!

Good to hear some positive feedback! Thinking about getting some prosports myself. I heard that you need different drop links, Vito ones from what I remember. Do you remember how much the drop links were or even a part number if you don't mind me asking?

I have the exact same one on my vrs. Local independent garage fitted it for me. As far as i know there were no complications fittng. Been on a couple of years now, with no clutch judder. Hope this helps.

Just put a set of kumho KU39's on my 16" rims last week (perhaps not as sporty a tyre as the KU31 but are a newer design). I too was unsure what tyres to try but decided on these. Price was a factor with my decision, they cost £264 for 4 fully fitted from a local independant tyre fitter. So far i am quite impressed. Level of grip seems pretty good so far and they are a really quiet tyre. Don't know what mileage they will do but am fairly sure they will wear better than toyo's and vredesteins.

Just replaced mine, got just the brake light for local dealers for about £70. Light is siliconed in so just need a flexible stanley knife to cut round. Had to replace mine because the circuit board was knackered in about three places. All leds were fine. Water must have got into the sealed unit. Crap design!

well said raf75. This car is in mint condition. Chris has always kept the car to a high standard. An absolute steal for that price!!!

Thanks for the replies folks. Thought it was going to be some obscure way of removal. Will leave as is for now, until i have more time and money!

Does anyone know how the high level brake light is removed from an octy vrs estate. Looks like it is set into the spoiler. Only have two sections of the light working. Can you replace the bulbs separately or is it a sealed unit. Had a quick look couldn't see any fixings from the exterior. Do you have to remove the spoiler to get to it or is it more simple than that? Don't want to start prodding and poking in the wrong bits. Cheers Rich.

The time is near to buy new front and rear discs and pads for my mk1 vrs. Have a budget of about £250 which gives me a few options. Don't want any drilled or grooved, just a standard look. Looking at the following brands..Pagid, Bosch, Febi, Eicher and Ebc. Does anyone have any feedback/recommend any of these brands and which ones to avoid? Or any other options i may have missed. Many thanks. Rich. HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Thanks for the feedback guys! Feel much better about it now. Am definitely going to convert to solid flywheel . Think the garage was trying to cover his back. I know he prefers to fit genuine parts due to warranties etc..... Just wondered if anyone had had any bad experiences after converting.

My mk1 vrs is due a new clutch. Have been looking at converting to a solid flywheel as it is a lot cheaper than the dual mass. However, after phoning my local indy garage to see if he will fit it for me, it has left me with doubt. :S He said he would not fit it for me because after going to a demonstration by LUK he saw the after effects of what damage a solid flywheel conversion can do. He basically said that a solid flywheel conversion puts more stress on the driveshafts/ crank due to the lack of cushioning that the dual mass provides. I am not the most mechanically minded person so i just wanted some feedback from people that have converted and whether or not they have had to replace any drive shafts or crank due to snapping since converting. Many thanks. Rich.

Thanks for the reply. I did replace the battery about a month ago so may have something to do with that. Will check for the fault code tomorrow. Will also have a look at the fuse box to see if there is anyting loose or how hot it is getting.

My vrs is showing the fault code 18010. I have reset it and will check it again in a couple of days. Can anyone tell me what this means and if i should just ignore it or whether I need to sort it. Thanks.

I can vouch that the car is in mint order and has never gone without anything.

Had a similar problem with my standard vrs, slight hesitation, some days worse than others. Thought at first it may have been a split pipe but couldn't see anything visible. Serviced it last week and changed the following...... Spark plugs, oil and filter, air filter, dump valve(as i had a standard spare one kicking round), cleaned throttle body (fairly coked up). After running around in it a few days the problem seems to have gone away, Most likely to have been plugs or throttle body in my case.

Thanks Brendan. The world would be a more complicated place without WD40!

I agree, nice wheels but would look better silver on a silver motor.

Does it bring up a fault code when you remove the fuse? Can get hold of a vag com if i need one. Will check out the condition of the pipes before i start writhing around. Cheers!

Can anyone tell me the correct way of replacing the fuel filter. Aren't sure if its best to run the engine first then remove the fuel pump fuse and let the engine die.... or to remove the fuel pump fuse first then turn the engine over to help release the pressure. Or if it matters which way at all!!!