skoda_dragon

These are radiators are pretty good value for money. I bought mine off this ebay seller as well. Just as good as a dealer one imo. **** easy to change over as well, just make sure that the mounts at the bottom stay in the chassis. Mine weren't sitting right and then I realised the rubber mount had come out with the radiator (D'oh!)

Using 10W40 in it and it's coming up to 65k miles

Oil was changed recently, only done 900 miles since. Oil level is ok too. Don't understand how it can happen on one journey and then be fixed after the engine was off for a while, makes me think it could be an electrical fault?

Ok so I was driving for 20minutes and then stopped for fuel, then after another 20 minutes of driving the oil light came on when idling and went off when driving. I travelled for about 50 miles with it like this, then I stopped and left the car off for about an hour and a half and the light doesn't come on anymore. Any ideas? Should I just monitor it or is it worth investigating? Does the Felicia (1999 1.3 Glxi) have an adjustable pressure relief valve? Cheers

I also have a leaking sunroof issue, and I am planning to take it out and re-seal it soon. However, I noticed some of the screws were rusted and could potentially break when I do take it out. Anyone know where I could get spares from? Jorily, could you also send me the prices for sunroof seals. Tried to find them on your website but they weren't there.

Could be the thermostat, the first time I bought my felicia, the cabin temp was never getting hot, then swapped the thermostat over and it was toasty inside once again

A common fault with the felicias is the plastic gears inside the motor shearing. I've had two felicias now and both had the same problem with the teeth shearing off the gears. You may find this is the case once you open it up but I have never seen the shaft come out with the wiper arm before. If it is the gears inside just get a spare motor from a scrappy and either swap them over or take the gears out. Favourit gears fit in as well, but the motor housings are slightly different. From what i can remember you need to get to the motor through the hatch behind the boot trim (which may also have a plastic sheet covering behind which you need to slash open) then its just a case of removing the fixings, can't remember exactly what type or how many there are of them

For that engine its relatively cheap. I paid about £950 when I was 18 for the 1.3 LXi Plus (it was in nottingham as well). This was over 6 years ago though so its likely to have increased a bit. I'm only paying £350 now that I am 24 though, if thats any help and its a 1.3GLi that I have now.

Sounds like I have a similar problem, not too sure whether I have a leak on inlet or not though, how did you find out? Did you pay much for the lambda sensor? I found them to be about £70 for post 1999 model. Probably try doing the same to mine to see if it clears the issue. My felly cuts out every now and again and won't restart straight away unless i hold the throttle open whilst cranking and even then it struggles a hell of a lot

Agree with tensioning, unless properly tensioned it will squeal, just get a hammer/crowbar/wood, anything to lever the alternator against the engine block to tension it whilst you tighten the bolt on the adjuster

Might be an issue with getting it out on mine though, the screws are quite tight and a couple are rusty, don't want to risk taking it out if i cant get it back together again

I was thinking of doing the exact same thing because i'm sick of mine leaking, i think its the outer part between body and frame thats leaking so gonna get some sealer soon and get it done

I didn't use a press either, just a hammer and socket. It might take a bit of effort but it will release eventually. I'm a novice at doing it so just gave it a try and managed to do it eventually. Garages will probably charge a lot to do it so its worth having a go yourself. It's the front ones that are the biggest problem.

Garages always charge way too much, i invested in a haynes manual when i bought my first felicia and have used it for everything and did it myself. i only use garages for mots or very complex things that i dont have the tools for. it's saved me loads of ££££ over the last few years

try opening up the thermostat housing and checking the thermostat, sometimes plastic clips break, which causes dodgy temperature readings. easy to replace, there is a mk2 thermostat housing for about £15 which you can get from jorily.com, which is much better than the other type as it uses a circlip. its a very common problem on felicias. the housing is split in two halfs and secured by three screws. very easy to do yourself. If it is broken, just have a quick look in the other half for any debris that might have got loose before replacing. you may lose a bit of coolant but nothing major

I took mine to the scrap metal yard who paid £140 based on weight. It was beyond repair really and it was worth it, i checked webuyanycar.com and they was only valuing it at £50, which would have been the admin fee so definitely worth checking other places out

As far as I am aware, they just pull off, they pay be a tight fit so it could take some effort. I had to pull quite hard to get the one off my 96 felly. I think i ended up using a screw driver to try and lever it off (it did break though so make sure you have the new one ready)

Reset the throttle body position using VAG-COM. I had same problem and tried all battery disconnecting and door open stuff, which may work for some people. Should not cost much, got mine done for £20

I still have a similar problem with my 1.3 felicia, fixed the high idle with vag-com but it still struggles sometimes when idling at traffic lights. It will sputter and if i put my foot on the accelerator you can hear backfire happening, lift off and it will usually cut out. It doesn't happen all the time, just every now and again. Any ideas what I need to do to correct the problem as it is starting to get annoying. Thanks

The throttle body position needs resetting using vag-com. Mine still idles roughly sometimes and seems its going to stall (sometime it does) but it has improved a lot. I think this may be another fault developing though as it was cured once the diagnostics were reset initially

I had the same problem with mine a few weeks ago and nothing solved it apart from VAG-COM, it needs the throttle body position reset

Not sure what it's called but try Jorily.com, he can usually source Skoda parts. or try a scrappies to see if you can get one the same colour so that you don't need to spray it

Normal operating temperature should be in the middle, of the gauge which is around 90 i think so yours sounds fine. It should sit there all the time when driving unless stopped at lights and it might go up slightly for obvious reasons. If its staying around 75 it might be worth just checking to see if it hasn't broke again or possibly changing the sensor

I changed my fuel filter and the valve clearances on my old felicia ( i need to do it on my new one) but it is realtively straight forward although the manual baffled me as well. For the fuel filter, it is hidden between the tank and exhaust so you will need to have it on ramps or axles to access it. It is a bit fiddly so I ended up removing the hose from the pump (located under the rear seats) to give me a bit more play under the car. you may need someone to help you to locate the correct hose and also to feed it back once replaced. You will also need to crimp the hoses to prevent any fuel leaking out. I think haynes says something about removing the negative on the battery as well. For the valve clearances, you need to raise one of the front wheels off the ground and place the gear in 2nd. Remove the spark plugs, then remove the rocker cover and splash plate but put the bolt back once the plate has been removed. You then need to refer to the manual for the order in which to do the valves (page 1A.8) , Inlet valves need to be set at 0.25mm and exhaust valves at 0.2mm. By following the order...so for valve 8 fully open (valve/tappet pushed into the engine) you will need to check and loosen/tighten valve 1.....etc etc.. To put the valves in the open position, simply rotate the wheel (clockwise as it is in forward gear). It can be tricky at first and you may need to rotate the wheel several times until you get the position correct but you will soon get the hang of it.

Yeah it definitely looks like you need a new sensor, the metal part is acutally part of the sensor (as you may have seen in other pictures of the sensor) so once you receive it, just plug it straight in. Probably worth flushing the system and putting new coolant in. Haynes manual says your supposed to do it every three years but when it looks murky, its worth changing. When you take the thermostat apart, check to see if the metal part (and any of other parts of the thermostat) of the sensor has fallen into the housing as it might damage/block other parts if its left in.