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muckipup

FREEDOM
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Camberley

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  • Model
    Octavia VRS 2.0 TSI
  • Year
    2012

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  1. ****SOLVED**** I gave up and took the car to an auto-electrician who solved the problem in minutes! The problem was all about the bluetooth system for the phone. Although I have had the car from new and ordered with bluetooth, I guess the dealer could access an identical car to my order minus the bluetooth and therefore added the VAG bluetooth themselves with the loom and under-seat module (or maybe that is factory standard??). Given that the Android unit had bluetooth built in, I disconnected the under-seat bluetooth module to keep things simple (ahem 😒) and put it to the back of my mind. When I disconnected the quadlock, I also found other wiring leading out of it and when I followed the wiring with my chubby hands down the back of the recess and to the right, I found a 'female' mirrored connector that did nothing. I therefore ignored it and just connected the male quadlock to the back of the unit with all the results in my post above - no power, no, ground, nothing! The auto-electrician put his hand down the back of the recess and, to my surprise, found....another male quadlock that my chubby hands didn't find down to the left hand side! I effectively had 3 of these connectors and this newly found quadlock was the 'factory standard' quadlock. I had no idea that it was there and, even if I did, with it out of reach, I would have assumed that what I did find was just an extension of that I had to hand with some wiring for bluetooth into the old Bolero...wrong! The auto-electrician plugged the newly found connector and everything booted up perfectly. He then did me the favour of simply cutting off the surplus 'horseshoe' with the additional male and female quadlocks off and taped up the bare ends. I guess that, by disconnecting the under-seat bluetooth module, it was ahead in the whole infotainment circuitry and cut off everything to these 'additional' quad locks (although, now that they have been chopped off, I can't test that). Below is a picture of what I am talking about with the chopped-off quadlock 'horseshoe' - behind it you can just about see the proper quadlock going in to the unit and the taped-up redundant wires that went in to it. I must have searched for hours on VAG based forums and beyond and never saw any other description of this. Needless to say, I feel like one of those humiliated cartoon characters where the jack ass ears grow out of their head! 😳
  2. Thanks J.R. I saw some of your other posts and advice on Android head units and was hoping that you would spot this. 😁 Can you think of any reason why the unit would not power up in the first place when it is supposed to be fully compatible and then, when putting the (previously healthy) Bolero back as before that would not power up? I could not detect any 12v supply to the quadlock but have powered up a working HU by direct connection to the fusebox but no sound like the factory amplifier (though didn't think there was one with Bolero) was not activated or something. There is no canbus input in to the HU even powered up on-the-fly with climatronic, doors or factory reverse sensors not registering even although it is advertised as also being plug and play. I found the Address 19 Can Gateway 01305 Databus for infotainment - 004 No signal/communication error (+ Address 56 Radio Cannot be reached) after this even with the Bolero put back and don't know how to fix that. It's like the HU isn't even there - no input to nor output of any kind from the quadlock connector!
  3. No, the only thing under the seat is the OEM bluetooth module which I have disconnected
  4. UPDATE: The Android head unit has alternative inputs to the quadlock including permanent live, switched live (ACC) and ground. Leaving the quadlock in and running some temporary wiring to piggy-back fuses in the fusebox for live and ACC as a 'test rig' caused the HU to spin the CD player and briefly show the start-up screen for a second before repeating the process every 5 seconds or so...connecting the ground at the back of the unit to a grounding point on the chassis....and THE HU BOOTED UP NO PROBLEM!!! (so quadlock wasn't even providing a suitable ground!)...BUT.... With the quadlock back in place, there is no sound to the speakers. I tried a CD, no luck; I could even see the radio tuning in and identifying stations but still no sound! Has anyone got any idea what the heck is going on ??? Pleeeeease 😬 The evidence suggests that it is the car canbus that is giving me grief rather than the HU
  5. Hi folks, I purchased a supposedly plug and play Android replacement for the Bolero: https://audiotechdirect.com/pba-a85pro-26s-8-android-12-satnav-gps-carplay-auto-radio-for-skoda-octavia-mk2-balero-stream/ It does not require any quad lock adaptors or canbus fooler and others have had plug'n'play success with this (e.g. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/456001-looking-for-a-new-headunitstereo-thing/ ). I have not...... After setting everything up, I have zero power to the unit. On going back and refitting the Bolero, it also has zero power in any ignition position. I have tried the following: Checked the radio fuse under the bonnet followed by every fuse in the under-bonnet and door-side fuse box - no problem with any fuse! Checked the fuse at the back of each head unit - all fine Checked the quad lock with a multimeter for any voltage on any pin - no voltage to any pin Tested the quad lock with its gender-opposite socket that is part of the Octavia 2 radio wiring loom - all pins on the opposite connector showed continuity with corresponding pints on the quad lock showing that no wires are broken or pins pushed out (at least in that part of the loom) Disconnected battery and reconnected to reboot the canbus Scanned using VCDS - got a Address 19 Can Gateway 01305 Databus for infotainment - 004 No signal/communication error + Address 56 Radio Cannot be reached. No other fault codes Cleared fault codes and retried - no luck Disable Radio with VCDS, cycled the ignition and then re-enabled radio - no luck I am still dealing with getting the Bolero working again Ignoring the Android unit for now) to avoid complicating what appears to be an issue with the car rather than the head units (I think) My questions for anyone in the know who could offer advice would be: Am I missing another fuse somewhere? Can the canbus controller kill all power to the quad lock? How do I fix that? Is it possible that I have a problem with the infotainment controller....and where is that located? Could it be the canbus wires in to the quad lock and what colour are they? What colour are the +12v wires going in to the quad lock (and should I supply a by-pass 12v from the fuse box to the corresponding pin on the unused female connector in loom which would work and be very easy to do) Anything else that I am missing here? Any help would be gratefully appreciated as I am at a total loss with this! Cheers
  6. Another biblical ressurection of the thread... I saw that Polar FIS are doing a trade-in of the older model for the newer PF04/PF05 models for a good discount. My older model has been sitting in a box so will take them up on the offer as I do miss the information (just not the battery drain!!)
  7. Hi Wendigo, A bit of a delay in replying so apologies for that! It is difficult for me to know if it was my FIS unit having a problem. As mentioned, I did notice a lot of heat energy from it when I uninstalled it and that energy had to be paid for with battery power. With the unit removed from the car, I still have some battery drain (with the car still being very dormant these days) but nothing like before and I have never found the battery totally drained after a week. The FIS definitely had a big contribution to the drain at the very least. I would consider fitting the new PF04 FIS as I liked the unit and notice Polar's claimed reduction in battery consumption with the new unit....although that in itself almost reads like an admission that battery drain was a problem with the older one. Problem is, I think I will have to sell the car as I just don't get the use from it any more
  8. Historic thread resurrection time!!!....just to give an update after 5 years of PolarFIS: The car was a daily commuter for most of this time but the data given by the unit was both useful and gave reassurance that all was well with the engine - detailed temperature readings, timing pull, misfire counter, boost etc. It was an absolute pig to install given the position of the gateway in the Mk2 FL Octavia given my chubby hands but worth it in the end. The problem came with a change of job and the car becoming a weekend car thus being on the driveway for the full week. The occasional battery low bong that used to greet me occasionally (but never seemed to affect starting) became a full on flat battery week after week despite have a brand new high capacity battery. I can only think that it was the PolarFIS keeping the gateway open and draining the battery. I uninstalled it yesterday and put the battery on charge for 24 hours so we will see if my theory is right in a weeks time. Interestingly the unit was quite hot when I removed it.
  9. I am clearing my garage of the above wheels which are surplus to requirements and giving me an earache from the missus. Two have scuffs as seen in the photos and two have minor scuffs but otherwise are in very usable condition and can be made pretty with a Halford kit. Would make a good spare set for winter tyres etc. All come with spigot rings and Skoda centre caps if you want them. Dimensions are same for standard Skoda Mk2 wheels but with slightly more poke at ET45 vs ET52 standard as I recall. Note the despite 7mm extra poke, the wide spoke design means that they clear some after market brakes like the Porsche 983 calipers or S3 but only just so would recommend spacers if you have anything bigger. They fit over standard calipers no problem. Looking for £150 for all 4 collected from Winchester/Andover area or £190 delivered to mainland UK only. Price reflects scuffs and the fact that I can't be bothered cleaning them but is still priced to sell. Sorry, not looking to sell individually.
  10. It is really down to the rim protecting lip on the tyre; they remind me of the Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymetrics that just came off the car which have similar rim protection and which has been most welcome on a few occasions!
  11. The wheels and 245/35/18 tyres went on with hardly any drama! The only thing was that the inside edge of the front tyres just touched the suspension strut by a whisker due to the few mm of lip that the Michelin PSS have; a 2mm spacer solved this problem. There was loads of room at the back without the need for a spacer although I put a 5mm spacer on just to tweak the overall look. No rubbing at all now. If I could have had an ET50 wheel instead of the ET52 of the version of the TD Pro Race 1.3 wheel that I had then I could have avoided spacers altogether. The end result was a wheel that cleared the suspension on the inside and a long spirit level showed that the outside edge of the tyres at their widest part was exactly in line with the outside edge of the arches both front and back (with the 2mm and 5mm spacers respectively). It is important to note that the Bilstein B12 dampers and Eibach springs mean that the car is not much below stock VRS ride height. If it was, I would need to do the 'arch screw mod' at least and if really lowered then start playing with camber or rolling out the arches. I am glad that I did not go with the 255/30/18 tyres - that extra 10mm would have meant that I had to space out a further 5mm to clear the strut i.e 7mm (if there is a 7mm spacer) on my ET52 wheels and the extra 10mm of poke beyond the line of the wheel arches would have been too much for my liking and risked significant damage to the arches with a big enough bump (even with my generous ride height). I just can't see how 255s would work without a lot of arch bending, arch liner removal and camber and would be silly on anything less than ET50 wheels. Haven't had a chance to push the car and test what the wider tyres give or take in terms of handling.
  12. 245/35/18 tyres are on! Now to see if they fit this weekend or if some modification is needed!
  13. The wheels have arrived..... ...now for the tyres. The wheels had a full width of just under 240mm and left about 6mm to the strut on test fitting even with being ET52. The outer edge looked to be a few mm inboard from the arches so I am hoping that a 245 tyre may just make it. I could always have spaced them out from the strut but never un-space them in from the arch! There was loads of space over the Porsche 986 calipers due to generous spoke design of the Pro Race 1.3 which was a relief with ET52 wheels! Will be back shortly with an update - wish me luck and don't say "I told you so". I know it can be done now....the arches were slightly rolled but Toddzy looks lower than me and his wheels were ET45... http://www.vwgolf.net.au/showthread.php?6036-Skoda-Octavia-vRS&p=350649&viewfull=1#post350649
  14. Pro Race 1.3 on way but is a custom order with 8.5J ET52 but will be 4-6 weeks before I see them from Team Dynamics. I have bottled out of the 255/35/R18 tyres as it seemed too much like hard work after having researched the real world difference between these and slightly smaller widths. The 235/40 are would be near ideal in terms of rolling diameter as the slight difference only brings the speedo towards being more accurate from the deliberate over-read that VAG have built in to speedos. However, I will probably go for 245/35 not because of any performance reasons but because I can get Michelin PSS tyres in this size (OEM BMW size). In fact, many would argue that due to the static downward pressure on various tyre widths mean that the same car would have the same patch area between tyre and road - true, but they are applying a rather outdated and over-simplistic law of physics. Wider tyres do have some advantages in some circumstances (e.g.dry but not wet/snow) but any increase performance comes from tyre dynamics and adhesion principles (which do have some relationship to width) but are not directly related to width i.e. 2x width does not equal 2x traction. If anyone fancies making their head spin, then grab a coffee and try reading this http://www.f1technical.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=9333 or any one of hundreds of other articles of debate on width vs. traction. So in short, I would be better off spending the money on a good tyre and 245 width than rolling arches, camber plates and whatever else to accommodate a 255 width. If I could get the Michelin PSS (and if I didn't just commit to an 8.5J wheel ) I would maybe go 235. I really want to try the PSS - despite all the great reviews on the GY Assymetric 2, I was initially pleased but have been disappointed in the last 2 sets that I have had; they feel less grippy to me in the dry despite still being great in wet cornering. This goes against a lot of popular opinion so I will probably get flamed for saying that! The 245/35 will actually cause the speedo slightly over-read even more over the standard but there is a way to tweak that using VCDS
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