psycholist

Almost all the energy used to compress the air drawn into the engine during the compression stroke is returned to the crank shaft during the power stroke. When no fuel is injected all the engine is doing is compressing air and letting it expand again. Some of the energy is transferred to the engine oil and coolant as heat and some is lost to friction, but unless the engine is designed badly or engine braking is added afterwards diesels freewheel very well when no fuel is being injected. The high compression ratio means slightly more heat will be transferred to the coolant than a low compression ratio (Thanks to pressure times volume being proportional to Temperature for gases), but it's still happening too quickly for a significant amount of heat to leave. Some diesel engines, especially those designed for off road use, do have an intake or exhaust butterfly to create engine braking, and to stop their brakes boiling on long descents, large trucks have compression brakes that open the exhaust vales at the end of the compression stroke to dissipate the energy stored in the cylinder rather than allow it back to the crankshaft (It sounds like a jack hammer, because what it's doing to compressed air is pretty similar).

I'd measure the internal and external diameters of the tube and have a chat with my local scrap yard. You could also go looking for tubing the same size on ebay, but confirming it meets temperature, pressure and chemical resistance requirements is a bit of a pain though. By getting piping used in the same application from another car you've already confirmed it's suitability.

Actually I think the DSG has 2 DMFs. However the garage can't weasel out of paying to replace them under warranty if they fail early by saying you're not using the clutch correctly when it's a DSG...

Access inside the door once you've removed the door card is limited to a couple of small inspection hatches. The hatch where the electric window motor attaches can be removed (The motor and window cable are attached to the hatch though, so without removing the motor and cable reel you won't get much access anyway. Since you're going at the speakers, you'll be drilling the speaker rivets out anyway, so you can go in there. Sealing well around the speakers and any other covers you remove as well as making sure there's foam wrapping on all the wires (There are 7 separate electrical connections between door card and the door on my driver's door) should keep everything quiet. If you're adding sound proofing inside the door remember not to block the drain holes in the bottom of the door - otherwise it'll collect water , which will leak into the car once it gets high enough.

I dealt with that problem by getting an 80 bhp RWD car instead. Just like the 4WD Skodas, this has no centre differential either ... If I get done for speeding in this I'm framing it .

It's completely normal for the shocks to make a hissing noise while they're working - it's easiest to hear with the window open and a wall beside the car to reflect the sound back to you. It's hard to hear from inside the car in most driving conditions with the windows shut. Ride height and uncontrolled bouncing/fidgety handling are the symptoms to watch for if the spring/shock are failing. Also expect uneven tyre wear as the suspension will spend too much time sitting in the wrong place in it's travel. Fitting self levelling shocks such as Nivomat ones (available in the Superb III) and very possibly the Superb II if you find which VW model uses the same rear suspension system. They're not cheap though. If carrying heavy loads is a regular thing I'd also make sure I don't exceed the max axle loadings.

It will also suggest lower gears than usual while running a regen and sometimes the engine note will change slightly. I haven't noticed a regen in at least the last year since most of my driving is around 80 km/h with very little start/stop use (It's nice to use a car for what it's good at ). The hilarious thing was that while that sensor was failing, a couple of times it gave genuinely impossible readings and the glow plug light would come on and all the nasty regen symptoms would go away because the system was ignoring the sensor completely and the engine ran perfectly. If you're looking at the idle speed, while my car is moving, even while coasting, the revs are held around 950 rpm, so the only time you can check whether there's a regen running via the idle speed is while at a complete stop.

Sounds like you're doing the ideal driving for your engine. For my car for the last few years it gets driven 100 km almost every time the engine is started and it'll pass 210,000 km (130,000+ miles) on Friday, the next time I expect to drive it. The only engine issue was a pressure sensor in the DPF giving a plausible but incorrect reading that made the car think the DPF was clogged and regen a lot for a couple of weeks while I worked out what was going on (It was an intermittent fault, combined with only driving every few days, so it took time to be sure something was up) and got it sorted. I use whatever fuel is cheapest (From reputable stations - if the car won't run reliably on standard diesel it's not fit for purpose.) and leave the car on long service intervals but tend to check it immediately if I suspect anything is wrong with it. I'm curious as to what uprated oil you are using - anything that meets the VAG oil spec for this engine is already very high end to begin with.

Taking the glass out of the instrument cluster is pretty easy - the cluster comes out once you drop the steering wheel to its lowest position and undo the bolts holding the cluster in, hidden under the trim panels. Taking the cluster apart is a matter of undoing the obvious screws and then unclipping the front by sliding a small screwdriver down the rectangular holes in the plastic pins going through the assembly. As far as I know the cluster is sold as a complete unit only (For about £1000), so you may need to find a scrapped car to get that part on its own.

I used a ratchet strap from my ratchet handle to the tow hitch to break the bolt loose on one side. Definitely a job that takes way longer if you don't have a car lift :(. Also annoying that most 12 point driver sets only go to M12, so I had to buy a new set just to get the M14. Whether it was cheaper than paying the garage to do it depends on how much per hour you're willing to pay to have the time free to do something else :P. The first rule of dealing with fasteners like this is that you don't swing your weight off them - plenty of nasty injuries to be had from hauling full force on something that lets go suddenly.

Not quite - you'll need a 12 point one or two sizes bigger than this set goes to if you ever have to change the rear disks. I'd have a go with the correct 12 point bit before trying the more extreme solutions. I suspect the mechanic stuck a torx into the bolt as the teeth aren't completely removed (The bolt would have just come out if the right tool was used). If this doesn't work I'd see about finding an allen key/Torx a size bigger than the bolt and hammering that into the head to undo it. Then see about vicegrips or a stilson, then try dremeling a slot into the bolt head and use a steel plate as a screwdriver. The other end of that bolt is accessed from underneath the car too, though I have no idea whether you need to take the fuel tank out to have room to work on it...

I had a very intrusive creaking on the panoramic sunroof in my Superb II when I got it. Opening the sunroof and closing it again silenced it. I got it greased at the dealer during its service and I used some rubber treatment on the sunroof seals and the noise hasn't been back in heading for 2 years.

Updating isn't worth the effort unless there's something wrong with it as it is - issues with crashing/slow response can sometimes be fixed, but I don't think you get any new functions. A user called Rustynuts on this forum does work on these units, so he'll hopefully give you better information. It will also depend on the age of the car as small software and hardware changes were made over the years the unit was used.

It should sell, but the buyer will be someone who likely is looking for that specific engine (Getting freedom Briskoda membership is a requirement before advertising things for sale, and that's what I'd do as it'll be seen by a lot of people who know what they're looking at). I suspect it will be difficult to sell privately to the average car buyer due to a combination of badge snobbery meaning people won't look at Skodas at all and the fuel consumption figures being worse than the 1.4 TSI/diesels. Any city that's making noise about banning diesels should see an increase in interest in petrol cars too, so maybe target them. Unless I really knew the car history I wouldn't buy a car at that sort of price point without a dealer warranty though, so investigate the trade-in options if the car is being replaced and see whether that's worthwhile - factor in your time to sell it privately too - the difference may not be worth losing your evenings and weekends to weeks of tyre kickers/test pilots coming to have a go in it.

Most dynos do better than just deducting an arbitrary percentage to convert wheel power to flywheel power. On the dyno my cars were tested on the car is first driven to a speed requested by the dyno, then it is taken out of gear and allowed to coast. The rate it loses speed gives a pretty good measure of the drivetrain loss.

Looking at the torque curve in particular, I reckon you won't be disappointed with driveability . Once you're over 2000 rpm it should pull like a train - it will spin the wheels in 2nd and even 3rd in wet conditions (1st is a dead loss for hard acceleration wet or dry even without the remap) if you're not paying attention pulling hard away from a stop or through roundabouts. It's well worth getting the limited slip differential (XRD in VW abbreviation speak I think) activated with VCDS if you don't have it on already as it reduces the problem of one tyre breaking traction and all the acceleration being lost. With nothing done but the remap and with very good tyres I'd need to change to a 4WD Superb before any further power increases are justified.

The remap figures for my 2011 car are flywheel figures and it was, IIRC delivering 169 bhp (Slightly better than the 170 PS (167.7 bhp) it's officially rated at - this is another source of confusion PS and bhp are very similar units, but not the same) before any update. My previous 2005 Octavia 105 PD was at 122 bhp before remapping, so 105 PS at the wheels is believable. Both cars were remapped by the same person and tested on the same rolling road. The rolling road was calibrated for driveline losses by driving the car to a set speed and then letting the speed freewheel down to measure the deceleration due to the components between the engine and the rollers. Based on other posts I've seen, 200 bhp at the flywheel can end up being more like 170 at the wheels, so if your figures power and torque at the wheels you've done extremely well. Since the legend on the graph says max clutch power and I've never seen anyone claim to get significantly beyond 100 bhp/litre without swapping out turbos or other hardware on the CR170 engine though, I suspect you're looking at flywheel figures.

If it's the same as the Columbus in the Superb II, then you need to put one track in the root folder, start that playing and then select the mix option including subfolders while it plays the root track. Then it will pick at random from the whole drive. If you do this within a bolder it will play at random from within that folder and its subfolders.

If one car has stop-start and the other doesn't that will put it a band or two lower, but as I understand it all Superb III models have stop-start. SCR engines have to use more energy to run the SCR system to process their exhaust gases, which, all else being equal will release more CO2 but much less NOx. The benefit of SCR is that, while burning the fuel, diesels with this system can use higher combustion temperatures and get better thermodynamic efficiency, knowing the extra NOx produced will be removed by the SCR system afterwards. Provided you ignore the cost and complexity of the Adblue system, this can give an overall better CO2 figure because the fuel is used more efficiently. Another possibility is that the higher CO2 car is a Kombi and the other is a hatchback.

Around 90 is a more normal oil temperature figure (Past 100 if you're pushing the car hard) - thermostat failed open maybe? Running the engine overcooled is harder on the oil AFAIK, so I'd definitely get it checked.

Try the tray under the engine for oil - it will collect drips, so looking for a pool under the car doesn't give an immediate indication of a leak. At the rate you're losing oil I would have expected it to have overflowed by now though.

The big problem in Ireland (And I suspect a lot of the EU) is lack of enforcement rather than lack of rules. The only laws that are enforced are the ones that are cheap/profitable to enforce such as speeding cameras. Pulling people for driving 30% below the speed limit on national roads with a line of traffic stuck behind them happens so rarely that the time last year that some farmer was fined for it after collecting a 2 km tailback, it made the national news here. At the same time in terms of per capita deaths/accidents per hour driven or per km driven, Ireland has probably never had safer roads. Even though traffic levels are now higher than they were in 2007 before the government sold the country to stock market gamblers at a fire sale discount, road deaths have pretty much halved - they're not at UK or German levels, but without massive upgrading of road junctions I can't see how this could happen anyway: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_road_traffic_accidents_deaths_in_Republic_of_Ireland_by_year

I can only imagine the uproar there would be in Ireland if cars were programmed to refuse to start after 2 hours or 2 restarts. There are so many people driving with failed bulbs here (And presumably getting away with it) it's past a joke. If the VAG range were the only cars that tell the driver immediately there's a bulb out this might not be negligence, but I know Mercedes vans since the early 2000s have this feature, so I suspect it's just another warning light people ignore until the next NCT. I'm not a huge fan of DRLs because they unfortunately are a further step in the arms race that sees pedestrians and cyclists at an ever bigger disadvantage when it comes to being seen on the road. The data seems to be pretty solid that cars with DRLs are less likely to be hit accidentally, but the human brain is always looking for shortcuts for routine jobs, so if 99% of the things drivers need to keep an eye on while driving have lights during the day, then over time people will subconsciously train themselves to look only for lights and ignore everything else while driving.

Could be the aircon pump - if so that noise is likely to be normal. Were you able to demonstrate it to the guys in the garage? Also putting any oil on rubber belts is a bad idea - they're designed to work dry (Or occasionally wet with water). Oil will probably degrade the rubber over time.

At least the sunglasses compartment in the Superb III is big enough to fit sunglasses into. unless they fold almost completely flat they don't fit in the Superb II compartment. Based on other posts here the compartment isn't padded, so if you develop what sounds like a passenger door rattle it may well be your sunglasses.