VagNewbie

Information for anyone whose interested in DIY'ing their own brakes, I guess these cars are still quite new. Applies to All Superb MK3 (3V) MQB Chassis Might I recommend Parts in Motion (Great Service, They Check your Compatibility and Offer Free Returns, Often Next Day) https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/ I have a 65 Plate (Now wearing a vanity plate) registered early 2016, my vehicle is a 1.6TDI 120PS, Manual, Hatchback. I went for Juratek Discs with Blueprint Pads. Disclaimer - For Information only, I am not responsible for damage to yourselves or your cars. The Fronts - Chock Rear Wheels Apply Parking Brake Ensure you are on a level piece of ground ideally concrete that will support the jack safely. Position Jack Under the Correct Point on the sill (Note there's an embossed arrow, the jacking point is obvious, use jack pad if you wish to protect the underseal) Do not jack up yet Remove plastic caps over wheel bolts (There plastic tool in your spare wheel kit for this) Ensure you have the locking wheel nut key at this point. Use a 17mm deep socket and a breaker bar to crack loose all wheel bolts including security bolt. Jack the vehicle until the wheel will spin freely (providing not a DSG in park) or until you can safely place under an axle stand (I put this under the subframe) Behind the Front Control Arm Bushes. Remove 17mm wheel bolts completely. Remove tyre, can be tricky if rusted onto the hub (use a rubber mallet if necessary on the back of the wheel) Safely stow tyre rim side up so as not scratch it and so it isn't a trip hazard. Remove the T25/T30 Torx retaining screw from the brake disc. Use a pair of vise grips of similar to prevent the nut on the end of the slider boot from spinning. Undo 2x 13mm bolts from the caliper carrier (There should be replacement bolts with your new pads dependent on the brand you bought, you can reuse with Loctite re-applied) Remove the caliper and hook safely out of the way, I found on the top of the shock was a good temporary mount (pay attention not to twist the brake hose etc) Remove existing pads using a flat bladed screwdriver, note the orientation, the pad is chamfered on the bottom to go with the contours of the brake disc. If you put the pads in the carrier the wrong way, They will catch the brake disc. Note that the little tab on the pads needs to be compressed and go within the carrier not be forced so it is bent and on the outside of the carrier. For the front you need to remove two 21mm bolts for the caliper mounting bracket these are tight (use a suitably sized breaker bar and a lump hammer if required) there is debate as to whether these should be reused as with all VW bolts, I reused mine with thread lock applied. (Someone to add correct torque settings) Once the mounting brakes is removed you can now remove the brake disc, dependent on levels of corrosion it may need rotating whilst you tap the rear with a mallet. Take care not to distort the metal dust cover. Whilst the caliper mounting bracket is off the car, thoroughly clean it of any debris and dirt, ensure that the area where the pads sit is free from corrosion etc using sandpaper, a dremel etc. Ensure the hub is also clean, I put a smear of copper grease on the hub to ensure easier disassembly in future. Remove the rubber slide boots and clean out with brake cleaner, wipe any old grease off and replace with red rubber grease or similar, do not use copperslip etc on slider pins and it will increase wear and swell the rubber boots. Thoroughly clean your new brake disc with brake cleaner, some makes have machining oil etc on them. Install new brake disc and replace T30 retaining screw. Replace Caliper Mounting Bracket 2 x 22mm bolts (can be tricky to line up, careful not to cross thread) Install new brake pads. Note the driver side is the one with the wear sensor if fitted, the passenger side does not have this. The wear sensor simply unplugs and should be fitted to your new pads as necessary. Ensure that you compress the metal retaining pin when you install the pads, make sure it doesn't bend out and ensure the pads follow the curvature of the disc, they can be made to go in the wrong way, which will catch the inside of your new disc and score it. Use a brake rewind tool to push back the piston on your brake caliper (standard right hand thread tool works for both front and back calipers) Note there is no need to open the bleed nipple. It is good practice to open the bonnet and extract some fluid from the brake res so it doesn't overflow. Install caliper and new 13mm bolts or reuse with Loctite (as applicable) Refit road wheel, remove axle stand, slowly let down jack, torque wheel bolts, replace plastic caps. Repeat for the other side, when satisfied, depress the brake pedal to ensure the caliper piston is hard against the pads. The rears - For this I used OBDeleven (There is a manual way involving, releasing the handbrake and removing the motor from the epb, I have not tried this) First chock the front wheels and put the car into gear/park (as applicable) Use OBDeleven, connect to the car go into Brakes/ABS Module, Basic Settings, Then run "brake lining change" the motors in the electronic handbrake will whir for a few seconds, then the dashboard will light up with ESP and ABS Faults. People state to connect a battery charger to maintain the battery I did not do this and it was okay as the job was quick. I kept the ignition in the accessory position with the ODBeleven connected Safely Jack the vehicle and support using a axle stand and then remove rear wheels as discussed. Remove T25/T30 Brake Disc Retaining Screw (Reuse) Remove two rubber dust caps from rear of caliper to expose two slider pins. Use a T45 or Appropriate Allen Key to remove the slider pin from the caliper, these are different from the fronts, you remove the whole tubular slider pin Remove caliper and support as appropriate (take care not to strain or twist the brake hose) The caliper simply pushes back as per the front calipers once the brake lining change command has happened. Remove the existing brake pads (note that there is a pad with a spring and a pad without a spring, the pad with the spring goes at the back (away from you), the pad without the spring goes at the front (nearest exterior of the car) I did not need to remove the caliper mount in order to remove the rear discs, the simply moved out of the way being a thin solid disc unlike the vented ones on the front. If you want to remove this you need a special M14 ZXN Type Socket. Ensure all mounting surfaces, such as the hub and pad carriers are cleaned use sandpaper, a dremel etc to ensure there is not dirt or rust, clean backing plate etc. Apply a smear of copper grease or similar to the hub before installing the disc. Ensure discs are cleaned with brake cleaner/alcohol of all grease and oils. Install disc and retaining bolt (t25/t30) Install Pads into carrier (spring one at the back) Ensure slider pins are clean, use sandpaper, apply red rubber grease. Reinstall caliper Ensure that rubber dust plugs are installed once slider pins are tighten. Refit wheels Pump the brake pedal to push calipers back out OBDEleven back in ABS/Braking Module, Basic Settings, "brake lining end" the motors will whir to close up the rear calipers. Test Drive Upon first use of the brakes there will be little braking effort, this is due to them needing to bed in. Essentially there needs to be a uniform amount of brake material applied to the surface of the disc to produce better adhesion and friction. Find a empty road. Warm up the brakes essentially, drive at 40mph and brake down to 10mph, repeat this 10 times with 30 seconds in between, do not stop. Stopping causes hot spots on the disc and uneven pad material transfer (This is what people mistake for warped discs) Repeat from 60mph to 10-20mph 5 times. Drive the car normally until a safe place to stop, when you exit the vehicle you should hear the metal tinkering of the brakes being hot, place the back of your hands near a wheel and you should feel the heat. Leave the car to cool down preferably overnight. Drive carefully for the first 100-200 miles, avoiding emergency/hard braking. You will gradually feel the brakes get better and better. Note, I do not put copper grease or any other grease on the rear or sides of brake pads. The only place any grease goes is on the slider pins and between the rear of the disc and the hub. Putting coppergrease on pads, just attracts brakedusts. Good pads will always have shims etc that will stop rattling and squealing, IMO no coppergrease is needed on the pads or pad carriers of these cars. Always ensure that discs have been thoroughly wiped down before use, noting that some brakes now have a coating that is worn off on first brake, this is to prevent corrosion. always read the manufactures instructions.

Good Evening Ladies, Gents, Non-Binary and (add other appropriate PC denominations here) Recently acquired a 2016 Superb S 1.6TDi 120PS (one owner (from this forum - good sign), High mileage 130k) I've had another 3v, a 3t, a Passat B6 and countless other Octavias and VAG Group cars and never had an issue getting a smooth gear change. I notice it is hard to get a smooth gearchange in this, unusually in 1,2 and 3rd (like the clutch is slow to release, like BMWs with check valve in line on the clutch hydraulics) If I floor it and change at 3-3,500rpm, it changes smoothly otherwise it's like a two stage engagement and "bouncy" No slipping, no problems selecting gears or reverse. Does the 1.6 DCXA have a single mass flywheel, if so this could be the reason and there's no dampening on engagement of the clutch, although clutch plates usually have dampening springs. Part numbers off the B7 and B8 Passats seem to suggest the 1.6 is a single mass 04L105269 and I can't get a dual mass to list on Autodoc except for the 1.6 dsg and 2.0tdi manual. If it is a solid mass, happy days for longevity.

Hi there, I used to have a 67 Plate Pre-Facelift Superb SEL Exec It had the MIB2 Physical Button Rather Than the later flat touch screen integrated MIB 2.5. Does anyone have one of these and the dash unit for sale?

Good Afternoon Ladies, Gents, LBGTQ+ etc. Just picked up another Superb. I had a 67 Plate, Superb SEL Exec 2.0TDI 150 DSG Now got a 65 Plate, Superb S 1.6 120 Manual. Don't really miss anything from the SEL spec, as it's had cruise and parking sensor specified. Only thing is it has the standard Radio with the small screen, voice control seems to be deactivated. Glovebox is different there's a slot for the car manual rather than the SD Card reader for the Navigation/DVD Drive. Anyone know how easy it is to fit, I know you need the unit and the screen. I have OBDEleven Pro to code. Is there a difference in Speakers between the S and SEL, I did not have Canton but the SEL and my B7 passat seemed to have Bass Reflex boxes and the S seems to have flat speaker grills.

Drop down glovebox, use multimeter and you flick the key. Then use mini blade adapter.

Good price? Most of it was labour. If you've got a hot engine and have plus gassed a couple of days before glowplugs are very easy to change with a long reach socket on a 1/4 inch drive with extension. I've never heard of a different glow plug for a single cylinder, even on early DPF equipped vehicles, they typically had a 5th injector on 4 cylinders. The plugs are standard Bosch Plugs universal across a lot of engines within and outside of the VAG Group. A set of Bosch Duraterm Glow plugs is anywhere from £25-50 for 4 dependant on where you source them. So if they've only changed one, bit of a rip off.

Same issue on Tiguan, EOS etc. Give it a good clean, then put on some gummi pflege or 303 rubber protectant on the seals. This will cause the seals to swell and be flexible again comparable to their natural "as new" condition which is part of the problem. If you remove the end caps from the drivers and passenger side of the dash, you can disconnect the drains and rod them from top to bottom. Similarly the C pillar covers all for this access, make sure the connections are good as this is another leak source, use a smidge of silicone to avoid blocking the hose and an appropriate jubilee clip.