Andy Hames

Does anyone know if the mounting posts for the exhaust heat shields are replaceable or not? I have a loose and rattling heat shield due to the fixings having corroded and fallen out, but the posts are also corroded and won't be any use as-is to fasten down to again. Can they be replaced?

OK, thanks for the quick response!

Hi, sorry to drag up and hijack an old post, but can anyone advise if any of the above modules will work with a Bolero head unit without MaxiDot display? I have previously retro-fitted a 3C8 035 730 D which worked fine but required plugging into a mate's car to get it paired, however it lost pairing when the battery was off for a couple of days. I'm looking to replace the module with one that can be paired without MaxiDot. Thanks

I don't live in Leyland but I do work there, so I'm around at the end of the working day.

Another vote for the Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2's. I tried the original F1 Asymmetric's on my previous Octavia VRS (Stage 2 modified) and have stuck with them ever since, wouldn't buy anything different now. Always been confident on them, even in the wet where I felt like they were less inclined to aquaplane than other tyres. Just bought a Mk2 VRS with some fairly cheap tyres on the front and I'm willing the days down until they need replacing, but having a bit of fun in the mean time

Good to hear it is sorted. For anyone with the same question, I had mine updated a couple of weeks ago and can confirm that 54 is the latest version at this time,

Hi guys Does anyone know if it is possible to enable a headlight warning tone when the headlight switch is left in the on position and the engine swtitched off on a Mk 2 Octavia vRS? It's fine having them switched off automatically but I keep ending up setting off with them switched on again when it is broad daylight. Thanks in advance...

Another vote here for Awesome GTI.

This vehicle has now been sold. Thanks.

Hi guys I have just retro-fitted a 3C8 035 730 D Bluetooth module to my '59 Octavia vRS with Bolero stereo (with 54 firmware update) but no Maxi-Dot. After adding module 77 to the CAN gateway it pretty much worked straight off, apart from having to borrow a mate's car that has Maxi-Dot to do the pairing, but it now works fine in my car. The only strange thing is that after switching the engine off, the connection drops but then the stereo now stays on for about 2 minutes with a message on screen saying 'Initialising phone' before switching itself off. Is this normal, or is there some coding that needs to be done? The drivers info display in the centre of the instrument cluster also stays on for a short time after the engine is switched off but nowhere near as long. Thanks in advance.

Thanks, will have a read of that. I was hoping to get a Haynes manual but it appears they don't make one for this model.

Thanks for the info. Did you have to get a dealer to do the firmware update or could you download it yourself?

Hi guys I have just upgraded my Mk1 Octavia vRS to a '59 FL Mk2 2.0 TSI with 30k on it, and i wondered if it had any common things to be aware of like the Mk1 had - stuff like the water pump having a plastic impeller and needing replacing and so on. I have read the thread about TSI engine failures so I am aware of the chain tensioner, but aprt from that there doesn't seem to be much in the way of buyers guides for this model. Anything I need to get checked out? Thanks

Hi I have a Mk1 Octavia vRS for sale that would suit breaking or a project. It has done 205,000 miles and needs the engine looking at due to blue smoke, causing an MOT failue (emissions and handbrake efficiency) and could do with a bit of paint and probably an engine mount. And the rear passenger door lock is a bit hesitant to unlock. That said it still drives well (apart from the blue smoke). Spec as follows: All 5 alloy wheels very recently refurbished - look as new except the centre caps. 2 good tyres, 2 low, 1 needs replacing. H&R lowering springs - recent, low mileage APR Stage 2 remap (stock / 98 RON race / valet modes, imobiliser feature) Carbonio CAI Miltek sports cat and exhaust system ECS Stage 1 clutch with lightened flywheel Forge DV007 DV Neuspeed turbo inlet pipe Tarox Sport Japan discs and Strada pads Recent set of 4 ECS ignition coils Alpine CDA-9831 head unit (CD/MP3/Tuner) with iPod / iPhone link controlled from the HU (old style Apple connector, not lightning) Sony-Ericsson HCB-700 hands-free Bluetooth installed with screen and address book display. Serviced by Awesome GTi. FSH with comprehensive paperwork. Taxed until the end of November MOT due 15th October - will be SORN'd as of that date. I would break it myself but I don't have the space, so need to get rid of it as a whole vehicle ideally, and I'd hate to see it just go to a yard. Asking IRO £750, should be worth that in parts alone. Will accept a resonable offer. North Manchester area. Thanks

It was just the thermostat in the end, all fitted and fixed for £25.

Will do. On the way to drop it off I checked that the interior heater is working and it's getting hot pretty quickly so it looks likely that the coolant is being pumped around after all. I'll find out tomorrow.

The car is off the road unil the end of the week when it's getting looked at - it's actually hardly moved for the last couple of weeks anyway as I've been using the motorbike instead. lol Thanks, I think As far as I know it is the original part, I don't remember having replaced it and I've had the car for 8 of it's 11 years.

Thanks, sounds like the first thing to do then.

Tried running without the MAF and no difference, but it's definitely not circulating coolant and now the temperature is reaching 120 and showing the warning light. Normally, it's sat on 90 like it's been painted on, never seen it above that. I replaced the water pump with one with a metal impellor in the past so hopefully it hasn't actually stopped running and it's a thermostat fault, but would that explain the loss of power? VCDS shows nothing engine related except the MAF sensor which I unplugged today.

Hi guys I have started experiencing a strange problem with my Mk1 vRS - it runs fine when cold but once the engine has warmed up it loses a lot of power and becomes pretty gutless. It has also started to overheat which it has never done before, but the power loss is there even with the temperature right at 90deg where it always normally sits. I have checked with VCDS and it didn't show anything that I could see (there were a few codes such as 'Radio - no communication' which I get all the time because the HU has been changed, and one for the rear right door lock implausible signal, but nothing engine related or sensor related) however if I reset DTC's then it seemed to sort the problem out temporarily, but it quickly returns. It is a high mileage engine having done 205k miles now and it does need an overhaul or replacement (blue smoke) but it has always driven well so this is a little unexpected. Does anyone have any suggestions on what might be causing this? Would a packed in water pump and higher temperature cause the engine management to go into a protection mode? I will give it another scan tonight and see if anything new has appeared. Thanks in advance.

Hi all Been in my mate's Leon FR again this weekend and I'm proper jealous of his seats every time I get in there! Thinking of having a go at transplanting some into the vRS, does anyone know how much work is involved in doing so? Is it a reasonable task to just swap the front ones out? Presumably there are safety considerations as regards airbags in the FR's seats - can they just be left in but disconnected? I am also assuming that the seat belt pre-tensioner pyrotechnics will be happy with the swap. Also in the back to maintain the same style, can they be done too? I would have thought they wouldn't be the same shape. Obviously a full re-trim would be in order so that they matched the vRS interior, thought the Seat Surgeons or somebody like that may be able to sort it out. Anyone know if this is possible or have any thoughts, suggestions or advice?

Best count me in. Would be rude not to I think!

Ahh! So that's what mine would have looked like if I remembered to check the weave alignment before doing the ashtray... lol Alternative pics with ashtray trimmed in opposing direction. Still in two minds to re-do it so it matches but I actually think it looks pretty well, as the contrast helps delineate the parts. Worthwhile mod though, looks a lot better than the standard vRS aluminium effect IMO.

`I had a similar problem, AA man also dignosed alternator failure, gave me a charge to get home and that was that. The actual failure was a fuse that had blown in the fuse holder on top of the battery. Must have gone with a bit of a bang because it actually melted the plastic holder around that area. Worth a check if not done already...

Ah! It is down toward the accelerator pedal, and not even covered by anything! I must get my eyes tested... Thanks again