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Thought the headlights were plastic so any kind of glass cleaner/ cutting type thing wouldnt work? Always thought my headlights look faded and wondered what you could do! Any cheap manual method?

As with most spoilers its there to look good, it actually makes the aerodynamics of the car worse as it increases the turbulence from the back of the car. And thats with the standard car being as aerodynamic as a bick anyway!

The inner adjusters are for vertical movement. Not sure which way they turn for raising the beam? If it was an MOT the testers surely couldnt have missed that!

Are other car manufacturer dealers just as bad, selling a modded car without advertising it as such? Maybe they treat it as just another 2nd hand car and are selling it effectively sold-as-seen. Just because its a skoda and their a skoda dealer doesnt neccessarily mean anything especially if its not come from them originally. But if you definately dont wont the map then i probalby would go back to them and complain. You can bet if do go back to them for any related warranty work they might turn around and refuse it. I'm surprised your insurance went up so much, but it does depend on who you are with. Your better off trying the more mod friendly insurers, ou might get it down a lot more.

I found some nice ones in B&Q, rubber moulded, round that had quite a stubby end to it. I think they were for wood staining or something but looks like a smaller version of the AG one!

Cheers. Yeah its the boot! When you switch it on the boot indicator on the dash stays lit. Well i was trying to make it shut tighter but now i have no idea how to get it to shuty so it doesnt come on. I've tried repositioning the boot lock both forward and back but it stayed on, but pushing the boot down near the edge seemed to cause the indicator to flicker. The lock does lock so i thought i thought it was something else. Thats what makes me think its like those magnetic type window locks and its those black blocks that are supposed to mate when the boot closes.

I now they are supposed to lock themselves but not when i have the boot open at the same moment!

Just been out and changed the dipped beam bulbs and thought i'd try and re-adjust the boot lock by losening the spline bolts and sliding it then tightening them up. In the course of doing this i noticed the central locking wasn't quite working properly as the indicators didn't flash when locking the car. Also when i unlock all the doors, open the boot and 30secs later all the doors lock! Very strange, but when I lock all the doors the boot is locked. How does the alarm/central locking detect whether the boot and the doors are open? Is it the black pads on the boot lid sides? I think from reading the handbook that the alarm is still active but the deadlocks arent working?

I took mine to the dealers as the drivers belt wasnt retracting very well, It would take about 10-15mins before it rewound itself. I was sure it wasn't just the top loop getting dirty but when i took it in to the dealer they just cleaned the belt and the loop and it worked properly again. They gave me a copy of the bulletin, which basically highlights the car handbook saying you should keep the seatbelt and loop clean.

Been meaning to 'borrow' my parents drive and their white garage door to try and look at the patten though i think i'll have to scale the distances down to just a couple of meters. Cant have the car parked in the middle of the road! Doesn't the haynes manual method detail how high the pattern can be off the ground? I'm sure i've seen it mentioned somewhere on the net.

Err.. no! I've never taken it off -- , well ive flicked down and up just to try and see the movement to gauge where it is pointing on something.

Was driving on the motorway on saturday night and realised i could not see any light from my lights directly infront of me at all and it was not interupting the lights from the overhead ones. I've been dissapointed with the coverage of my lights for ages and put it down to the fact the car is probably a bit lower on the nose of the car due to the suspension upgrade and why they dont seem to go out much further than 10m from the car. If i'm sat in traffic 1.5 to 2m from the car in front they tend to illuminate the bumper only. I'd changed the them about 10 months ago for one of halfords whiter, super brilliance ones? anyway I've noticed one of the bulbs is turning black on the lower half and the fact the covered portion on the end extends further than the standard ones. So have decided to go back to the original Osram brand ones and have order some of their silverstar lights. I do remember being amazed when i first drove the car by the light coverage, even seeing some of the lens ridges being lit up on the trees along the side of the road. Now

Brillant thanks for that, will try at the weekend, hopefully it cures my problems.

Is there a special way if fitting it so that it doesnt kink and just give an esy path for the air to get through?

I found Tescos, and now i think Halfords and B&Q sell a non slip mat. You could cut that up to make it fit the door pockets.

Well, thanks for the responses guys. I dont believe the heater blows out air based on those numbers at all. If it was blowing air at 18 deg it wouldnt be so bad, but i'm having to drive along in a T-shirt in this weather, it gets that hot! So i have been trying to get that hot air out before parking up again. I have trying turning the temperature knob around the whole scale but it doesnt seem to help. And when i'm playing around with the other knob to change the vents used the recirc light does go off, but then i do have the v154 VAGCOM errors anyway but it does seem to still work. Resealing the boot?? do you mean replacing the rubber seal? Any idea where the temp sensor is for the heating? With it being this cold its not too bad the heater does help, before christmas when it rained it was a real pain. If i tried and switch the AC off before getting home the whole car instantly mists up.

Am i the only one who gets more of a frost inside the car than outside? I now spend more time waiting for the inside of the windscreen to defrost than scrapping the outside. And before people say, its not the rear doors, its the boot! Apparently its normal for the boot seal to get wet and for the wetness to get past the actual join, according to the dealer:confused: I've had so much moisture on the rear window at times over the last month or so its rediculous and with it being colder and having the heater on it just seems to stay damp. Oh and dont get me started on the heater, It only does cold or hot there is no inbetween, one notch up from cold and its blower hot that then just mists up the windows! In this weather i'm really getting cheesed off with this car. I dont think i can last another winter with it like this.:(

Well i might have been able to match you guys but i actually got stopped the other day because the rear was too dirty and you couldnt read the number plate so had to clean it. It wasnt too far off WaveyDavey's car.

Thanks for the help but its not the rear doors, i sealed them up earlier in the year. Plus i can actually see the boot seal is wet.

Having had the suspension uprated I'm not convinced, the cars attitude is definately different. I',m just not sure how to manually check it.

Its an 04 plate. Dont think its just the pull strap getting caught in there as thats never been wet. Not sure if you can actually adjust the position of the boot when it shuts?

Another recomendation for the here. Had T1-R's fitted all round a few months ago. So much less hassle than going somewhere, queing, waiting when they will come round a fjust fit them where ever you want.

Whether its due to the suspension not as level as before but i feel the lights are too low even on the highest setting. I know i can adjust them manually on the light units but how? And is there a way to check they are to the right level?

After its rained heavily I'm finding if i open the boot the rubber seal is wet upto about the top of the light clusters then it stops. However the seal along the bottom seems to sit on the top of the bumper and thought maybe the water from the bumper is getting wicked up the seal join? The bumper looks like its the right position but to me it doesnt seem a good idea to have the boot seal compresed agains the top of the bumper.

Well i applaud you for being subjective and willing to try it out. And the fact you are noticing the affect shows that people would rather beleive the rumor than trying it out for themselves.