SimonS

The pre-FL maxidot uses DDP (Display Data Protocol), the FL maxidot uses BAP (Operating and Display Protocol). Some modules work with one type, and some work on both. See here

Good News, the two lights went off after a brief drive I'd have been worried all night if it hadn't been for this forum - thank you.

Thanks guys. I forgot to say the air bag light was on before anyway - I've currently got the glove box removed (passenger airbag disconnected) while I do some work with the head unit. I will try a short drive as you've suggested, hopefully the other two lights will go off. Once I've got glove box back, and stereo sorted, I will get air bag light extinguished by some kind soul with VCDS.

After disconnecting and reconnecting my Can Gateway, I have the following warning lights displayed: Steering Wheel (I have a MFSW) Air Bag Skid (ESP) Is this normal? Does it just need resetting by someone with a VCDS or a visit to a helpful dealer? Thanks

My 2008 L & K had been letting in water, so I came here for help. I found a post where someone had said there was a "design fault" with the hatch seal. Instead of having holes along the top of the seal (where water actually gets in), these holes should have been on the underneath. It was suggested that the rubber seal from the newest Octavia might have been redesigned. I asked my friendly local TPS (VW / Audi genuine trade parts) if they would order both seals (2008 + 2012). When they arrived, they were both the same, with holes on top. I didn't buy either seal, and decided I would put holes in the underneath of my existing seal. I (stupidly) tried to use a 12v drill to make holes along the underneath - but the drill bit got caught in the rubber and ripped an unsightly hole. Sugar! Back down to TPS, who still had the hatch seals they'd ordered. After paying £30, and managing to find a craft shop who sold a leather/craft punch, I went home to commence the fitting / making holes in seal. Same punch also available here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200714936575?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D200714936575%26_rdc%3D1 My old seal was 5 years old, so I'm sure having new one wasn't a bad thing. It was easy enough to remove, but more challenging to fit - you had to try and 'pry' the interior trim out of the way at same time as pushing the seal firmly onto the metal. After experimenting with my old seal, I found the best way to make holes was like this: Using the largest hollow (4.5mm), feed this carefully through one of the existing top holes in the seal. Now using your fingers to 'feel', guide the end of the hollow against the inside of the rubber, so that the new hole is punched as close as possible to the stiff part of the seal . Give it a firm press, and wiggle it a little to make sure you've done a clean cut. I did this for just four holes that span across the lip of the boot. I used the largest hole punch as I felt it was better to have larger holes letting the water out than the holes letting the water in. If you're not fitting a new seal, it will be fairly easy to remove just the lower part of the seal to work on. I would recommend NOT trying to punch holes with seal still in situ - too much chance of messing it up. You will need to remove the plastic trim around the boot catch. There are just 2x plastic nuts to loosen (no need to remove fully) and the pull very hard on the whole thing upwards. I've had plenty of rain since the fitting of new seal / making holes in it - not a drop of water in the boot. Hope this helps other members. I was so fed up of mopping up the water in my spare wheel well!

Did your dealer manage to fix the problem with water in boot?

The switch was fixed a couple of days ago by main dealer - total cost £105.95 Everything now working as it should. Would have attempted fix myself, except 3rd part warranty in place to cover cost.

The dealer has ordered the switch and warranty company has approved repair. Just got to wait for part and then book car in again. I have my car setup so that the doors lock automatically. Over the last few days they've locked, but then unlocked randomly part way through a journey. Do you think this is related to the same faulty switch?

Thanks

I'm taking car into dealer on Thursday - hopefully covered by my extended warranty. Will they want to replace the tiny switch inside or the whole ignition barrel?

Thanks for replies. It's weird then that the stereo now switches off at position "0", before removing the key. But thinking back, I seem to remember it staying on until withdrawing the key.

I don't think the stereo is supposed to switch off when removing the key. The stereo does switch off, once the key is turned to position "0" on barrel. Is there anything else that I can check that should be activated or deactivated when key is removed?

As you will all be familiar, Octavia's (like other VAG group cars) switch on the interior light for aprox 30 secs automatically when you switch off the engine and remove key from ignition. I've had my current Octavia for about a year now, which USED to do this.................until tonight. All other central convenience functions work as normal, including the interior light being switched On or Off when Unlocking or Locking car from central locking. I've checked that the interior light switch is in the correct position. Any thoughts, anyone?

I've got DCE610001A in my 2008 Octavia - Quality and Fit is fantastic. It has pre moulded 'cut outs' for the lashing eyes (the other boot liner appears not to have these). Only other thing to note is DCE610001A leaves a small space at the left, where you might have a cd changer. On the other boot liner, it seems to cover this area fully to the left.

Signed up 30th Dec, just received my documents and vouchers this morning - Yipee