proevofan

i have been having loads of knocking creaking problems from my fabia vrs , changed all droplinks dogbone mount front and back wishbone bushes , but still get knocking pulling off breaking and vibration really bad when i boot in in 1st and 2nd. been searching again on this site and found a thread about a engine mount under the battery tray , i think the noises seen to be coming from there. can i do this myself as i did the dogmount and have ramps etc. heard engine needs supporting, can this just be supported with anything underneath , eg jack up then lower it onto a wheel or something similair... thanks i posted this twice so sorry to any admins it might offend

i have been having loads of knocking creaking problems from my fabia vrs , changed all droplinks dogbone mount front and back wishbone bushes , but still get knocking pulling off breaking and vibration really bad when i boot in in 1st and 2nd. been searching again on this site and found a thread about a engine mount under the battery tray , i think the noises seen to be coming from there. can i do this myself as i did the dogmount and have ramps etc. heard engine needs supporting, can this just be supported with anything underneath , eg jack up then lower it onto a wheel or something similair... thanks

is nt that even worse though cuz mine look about 10mm, im not buying em just saw em and thought mine look like sqaushed up rather than a proper bush style. god knows the car is annoying.

just been looking at anti roll bars and drop links on ebay , these on ebay are used but look twice as wide as mine ? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/00-08-SKODA-FABIA-2x-16MM-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-BUSH-6Q0411314P-/380309046545?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item588c2f8511 on the photo of my caar you can see a lot of the bolt thread , does anyone no if this looks right or not. also someone mention cv joint or cv boot, is this an easy fit or not. i get a loud vibration sort of noise in 1st and 2nd as well , not sure if this is related or not. thanks for all you great responses already.

ive posted a pic of my vrs , may give u a few ideas mate

Heres my 2006 vrs , might give you a few ideas. also with some other wheels which i did nt like so got the ones in top photo.

i changed the front wishbone rerar bush with powerfl0w , and would a burst cv make all those noises ? when its cold the car is worse , in hot weather or after driving for a while the noises go a bit. feels like when u brake it crunches forward and when u accelorate it crunchs back a bit , this has near enough stopped since changing bog mount but still there slightly ? when its cold if u push down on front wings it sounds like an old squeeky bed , any ideas as a garage will take the **** and make a wrong diagnosis like most garages do these days.

i think its the drop link, how will i know if the cv boots gone then , will that make those noises and movement ? i did spray some duck grease on it so maybe thats in photos

i ve had my 2006 fabia vrs for 2 years , great car but in the last 6 months its doing my head in. started squeeking creaking knocking. changed the wishbone bushes for powerflex , that made it worst. changed the dog bone engine mount, slight improvemnt. took this photo today as the noises and tracking keep going are making the car a nightmare to drive. any ideas ?

these were my 17s in black , ok but next wheels are better -

watch it first at scenereleases.com

what are you on about , i thought this site was for fellow skoda drivers to help other skoda drivers? 84 views and just 1 useless reply? cheers.

That is the most disgusting thing in the world. id never put that on my vrs and my fabia is black...... NIGHTMARE MATERIAL FOR SURE

I own a black vrs, only mods i have done are the seat front splitter. i want to get rid of the chrome on the front grill and mesh it . the bottom grill as well above the splitter. any ideas or photos of previous attempts at this please. there is grill on ebay for £55 but i want mine to be unique and i think i can do better job and for less money. getting it lowered and re mapped after xmas due to cash flow so this will curb the modding bug in me till then. thanks for any replies and ides. nick. http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x301/proevofan/300920091016.jpg

no it does nt dim when lights on, not sure if it wired proper as it all works and can change the 7 colours it has, but always goes back to 1st colour(white) when key taken out and put back in and switched on. not to bothered but would like to only work when i put lights on and have memory of colour i last used, im after a pillar pod gauge holder(just the holder) if anyone has one, will swap for normal gauge holder with an 60mm electric gauge fitted inside. PM me and we ll meet up. or ill buy it if its cheap.

got rid of the blue tape etc. got a male hose nipple from work, screwed it in and then attahced hose and used a piece of black gaffer tape to make it secure, not fell off yet. hope its not so pikey now lol... just hope is stays on , getting readings 1.5 - 1.8 so hopefully no leaks , not sure what it should be , totally standard engine and exhaust system. hopefully pd 160 air filter pipe and re-map to take it to 170bhp hopefully at xmas time.

I like it pikey, not knowing if its gonna blow off or not makes it better:321:

few photo's - was a T piece i used but only needed one end so super glued and used some plumbers taped a screw in one end, very air tught. end that went into boost pipe was plumb taped in very tight. so cant see why gauge not moved ?

got it all sorted, T'd into the pipe and get power to the gauge(auto gauge 7 colour) but gauge does nt move when i rev it? not drove it yet so is that why?

Got a auto gauge boost gauge from halfords. got it all wired up and managed to get the air tube to the engine, it came with a T piece so its not really suitable for the hard plastic on the left, could someone please tell me which thin pipe runs boost through it and were best to put the T piece.. thanks a lot for any replies. ill post some pictures as soon as its done.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...4072009772.jpg i brought this 2nd hand, not sure how to fit it. managed to it to come alive by connecting 2 of the 3 wires to a live and earth, power came on and needle did a sort of start up , went from 0 to 2.0 the to -1 the stopped on 0 in the photo there is a copper valve, does this have to take a tube to the engine bay then be T ' d in somewere ? ? ? seen loads of video's etc but need to know what sort this is and how best to get it working properly. thanks in advance.

right . i checked it today after a 50 mile round trip, slight oil mark from the small hole under the valve. i think it was so dirty as before it was owned by a old man who i think would have never got under the bonnet to clean it so i think that was 3 years worth of build up lol.. geordie 21 were did u get the pipe from then ?

i brought this 2nd hand, not sure how to fit it. managed to it to come alive by connecting 2 of the 3 wires to a live and earth, power came on and needle did a sort of start up , went from 0 to 2.0 the to -1 the stopped on 0 in the photo there is a copper valve, does this have to take a tube to the engine bay then be T ' d in somewere ? ? ? seen loads of video's etc but need to know what sort this is and how best to get it working properly. thanks in advance.

cleaned all round were it looks like the oil came from , it was there when i got it but the dealer said it normal, never had a diesal beofre or even a turbo so never thought to question him, cleaned nealrly all engine bay and long hard plastic tube that runs down the left of engine. seen a few people on here have replaced that with a stainless one, is a worth while mod ?