cav-mad-gav

Solved for future searchers. Was the ignition switch at the back of the lock barrel. https://youtu.be/P7yZBjvAkTc?si=i7PgijoZLYVIly7zGood video on how to remove switch £13 off ebay for the part.

Thanks for the ideas Alasdair, but I think I've tracked it down the the ignition switch at the back of the barrel. If I tap it, it's sending the relays and dash all over. Ordered one off fleabau £14. Will report back 20230925_183200.mp4

Fair point, but for £15 I thought it was worth a go. But just to confirm, am I looking at two different types of key readers?

I was going to replace just the key reader as first port of call. Can I not do that on this type?

Looking at my ignition I have the type below. Looks like I can't replace just the reader? If I brought this below would the keys need coding to the car vi's vcds?

Also to add - with the key in and ignition on - when all the dash is alive as i turn it to start that is when all the relays are going mad. With the car started if i 'tease' the key from position 2 to 3 as if to start it again at mid turn the relays are going again and the car stalls but restarts immeditaly.

Hi all. Just after some advice please. I am still browsing every website I can and coming up with ideas but thought i'd just ask here also. 2008 Mk2 vRS petrol Over the last year I've had maybe 4 immobiliser active on start up. This hasn't happened for at least 4 months - recently though - after start up the car cut out - suggesting immobiliser - did this twice then - when turning key - the dash has no life at all. I can hear relays clicking like mad behind the dash/bottom right - jiggling the key doesn't seem to make a difference and randomly the dash will spark up and it will start. Sometimes it starts and cuts out but restarts fine - other times it starts and run no issues. IT did also cut out mid run the other day in drive through queue -Its odd if the immo cuts in mid journey Its the same with both keys. Is it immobiliser fault? Is it the key ignition reader ring fault? Basic relay somewhere fault? Or the connectors on the dash fault? All leads etc from battery are good and tight. Haven't got VCDs Any opinions appreciated. Thanks

Please help lol Is this a 12 sided bolt or the other mentioned bolt? Because one you tighten to 200nm and the other to 90nm I don't want to get it wrong haha Cheers all

Hi Wino, Thanks for you reply and thank you for taking the time to look. I also suspected that the two would be unrelated so your theory about the clock PCB seems pretty plausible. I have tapped the clocks when it happened, started, stopped, hit the top of dash board etc....It really does seem completely random. Oh well, i'll keep my eye on it and see if anyone else has experienced it and searches for this thread

Whats happened to this group? there used to be loads of people on here quick to answer? Where has everyone gone? :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(

Please anybody?

Just for reference if anyone searches this thread for Vrs sizes - http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/290405-rear-brake-disc-size/?p=3452195

Also, Mine has GPS built in which is actually a downloaded app called Igo, its okay but not as good as the skoda sat-nav system. I haven't done so yet but it would pay off to buy a dongle and internet only sim card for it to get the full use of the system. With regards to returns, I think they all have regional dealers that deal with returns and replacements etc. Lastly, reliability, in my mind, because it is android, it can become infected with all sorts, and thus not be as reliable as a normal head unit.

I've recently brought one is these type for my ford and although it offers a lot of toys and gimmicks I have lost a lot of functions of it actually talking to the car as such. Also I have found that I barely use half of it now after the initial honeymoon period. I have the Columbus in my octy and the only thing I miss from it is DAB, having said that I wouldn't be putting a aftermarket Android one just to gain DAB and google programs.

Hi all. Having a strange problem with my 2008 2.0 tfsi octy. Now and again the fuel gauge will just stop working, and every time it does the outside temp readout drops to stupid - 'C Today it was -29 outside!! The two always coincide so I don't think the temp sensor is faulty as how would this effect the fuel gauge? The temp gradually rises in .5 increments through the journey but never gets to a correct reading. Has anyone got any ideas off the top f their heads? Thanks all