vicfurpac

Same problem Papfox. Have 2008 Octy 2.0TDI vRS with aircon that only works on cloudy cooler days and at night, and when the sun and heat is out, ambient to warm air I get doesn't matter if I rotate the nob to low. Aircon kicks in for less than 30 secs and turns off, turns on again and turns off. Tested with diagnostic tool no DTC's, and compressor RPMs seem fine when turning aircon on, but notice that evaporator temp takes long time to drop to 9/10 celsius. Getting furious with this as it has been like this for two years. No leaks detected, it's got gas as a leak test was performed and all was OK. I always have AC on even during winter as it helps to defrost windows on a rainy day. Done tests with diag tool, resetting AC system and all flaps,then leaving AC on until I see a wet floor under the car which means AC is working, then back to warm air again. I even have hit the compressor and the expansion valves lightly with a rod and hammer to see if it was due to a stuck valve. So it might be the compressor then as I was also trying to figure out if these compressors had clutch to engage like others do. Seems like every time I do a reset on the AC system it works for a couple of days but not that cool air that you would expect. If compressor is the matter here, any better brand that anybody recommends?

This is how my turbo sounds. :wonder: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJO9Ny1skEs Cheers.

Hi. I just bought a Skoda Octavia vRS 2.0TDI 125kw (170bhp), Garrett GT 1749VC oem turbo nr. 03G253014KV100 with only 59000kms. It had been ECU chip tunned to 210bhp by previous owner, and I got it back to stock 170bhp, because I thought the siren sound would go away which didn't. It has the same police siren sound starting around 1250rpm then disapearing at very high pitch at around 2500/3000rpm then coming back when releasing throtle or when shifting gears at low revs. Spoke with some mechanics and turbo techs only to find out that the police siren whistle is a sign of wear either from dirt sucked from the air intake hitting the compressor blades and tilting them, poor lubrication, overworked or overheated turbo, running engine at high revs when engine/turbo is not fully lubricated, not letting engine/turbo cool off for at least 2 minutes after running at high revs before switching engine off. I normally hear from other turboed car owners that a turbos don't give a whistle/siren sound they give a whoosh air sound??? Do I have a turbo about to fail? Some say it's the begining of the end of the turbo. Can it be repaired? Turbo techs say it can be after proper diagnosis of what the problem might be ( worn or unbalanced shaft/bearings/tilted compressor blades, etc... ) need to send it for diagnosis/repair to find out if it's worth repairing or buying new. I'll keep in touch and or if anybody has same problem and had it sorted out by repairing or buying new turbo please let me know. Thanks in advance. Vicfurpac.

It sounds more like it's coming from the engine like a rotating skweak while releasing the clutch. The car was sitting for a few months on the dealer before I bought it. Did a semi inspection at 122.000kms like changing engine oil, coolant, brake disks and pads, engine drive kit and belts but didn't touch the clutch for it felt ok. Now this skweaking noise is coming up not very often though but to me it feels like clutch related in the engine while releasing the same. I'm going to check the gear box oil level to see if there's any diferrence in colour and consistency. Let you guys know if I find out anythimg meanwhile sugestions are welcome. Thanks.

Hi folks. I've started to hear this skweaking noise not allways but sometimes when releasing the clutch pedal during shifting. Car runs nice don't feel no slipping and has good grip when taking off. Any ideas what it could be? Thanks in advance.

Hi everybody. Have the same problem, engine starts fine when cold, problem is when it's hot, so I first umplugged the heat sensor below vacuum pump, engine starts at first turn of the key either way cold or hot, so changed sensor €44.00 at VW dealer cause skoda didtn't have one, noticed that part # is different but sales man at VW said it has been upgraded. Plugged it in, still not working when hot. Checked all plugs to find out they didn't light up, so replaced them.Still not starting. When´t to get diagnostics check both at engine cold and hot. Mechanic said engine starter was not reaching it's 250 rpm's. So he got it desmantled and lubricated, says diagnostics read no errors and that engine starter was reaching it's rpm's now. But problem is not solved yet engine still doesn't start at first turn of key when hot like it does at cold engine he says it might be a problem with the fuel sensor in the fuel pump cause at diagnostics reading fuel temperature wouldn't go above 34.5Cº. Any ideas what it might be? Read all threads attached will try the batery change tomorow to see if it's from it, doubt it cause the engine starts nice at cold. Any sugestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.

Hi folks. After stripping almost the whole interior just to find out why I was not able to unlock the vehicle through the hatchback door, came to find out hiden in a neatly rapped bunch of wires a tiny corrosion on one of them just enough to cause all this havoc. Got it cut, soldered and isolated and all central locking is working nice. Attached is a photo of the wire by the rear right door.

Problem solved. Check link http://briskoda.net/octavia-i/corroded-wire-answer/155602/