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djaychela

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    http://www.skodarallyblog.com

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    No Felicias now... used to have a rally one!

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  1. To answer here rather than PM (so others can read in the future).... the quick rack that I had was an LHD one that came with a job lot of parts I bought. Obviously being LHD the internals were not interchangeable to put in an RHD one, and I sold it along with the new LHD shell I bought that had a weld-in cage fitted. I heard rumours that a Nova rack would be adaptable to fit in the Felicia, but didn't look any further than seeing the superficial similarities between them; might be worth looking at as there are plenty of rally ones about if it does check out. I am indeed now running an Ibiza, with a 2 turn lock-to-lock rack in it (custom made by a swedish company), and it transforms the car on gravel, it really does, but then so does a C/R box, LSD, decent suspension, etc., the list is never ending!
  2. If you want to tell if pads are rattling, try dragging the brakes with your left foor while holding down the accelerator with the right foot - i.e. left foot braking - while you're driving along. It takes a bit of practice so try it somewhere with nothing to hit, but it's really useful for checking things like this. Had pad rattle on my Mum's Passat the other day as the rears were fitted wrong. Left foot braking showed that it was definitely brake related in seconds. Other than that, check there's not a stone or similar stuck in a hub or disc shield - I've had that before and it made a similar sound.
  3. Do it better - replace it with a steering joint from something like a Fiesta. Half an hour with the MIG welder and you'll have super-precise gear changes and it won't wear out either. £10 well spent.
  4. I blew up a passenger airbag in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Orw_m8h8n5E So they did exist... and the passenger one is WAY more serious than the driver's side...
  5. Disabling them is a BAD idea. Many cars' protection systems rely on the airbags being a part of that system. Disabling them will increase the likelihood of being injured. In the case of the pre-tensioners, it may well mean the seatbelt works less well than it should, and that's a really bad idea. I think it's very unlikely they would spontaneously go off - the 15 year rating is far more likely to be a "will work" than "will go off randomly". You don't "need to do something in the next few months", it'll be fine - the lifespans given are estimates, and there's no information anywhere that there have been problems. Airbags have been around over 20 years in some territories without issues. Do some research, and you'll see you're making a mountain out of a molehill - Mercedes, for instance, now say that airbags should last the lifetime of a vehicle, whereas they originally said 15 years. RACV in Australia say they know of no cases of older airbags causing issues in a crash due to non-inflation, or having gone off spontaneously due to age. http://www.racv.com.au/wps/wcm/connect/racv/Internet/Primary/my+car/car+safety/safety+equipment/airbags/older+airbags
  6. Yes, in the same way you must get your car serviced every year regardless of mileage. It's all CYA stuff, don't worry about it.
  7. I'd check it after a few miles, if I were you... once the hub has had a few heat cycles from the brakes in it, it may loosen up, so worth a check.
  8. No, to replace part 4, you'd need to remove the whole assembly from the car, and then use a press (10 ton hydraulic or similar) to press part 4 out, which destroys the wheel bearing in the process (part 9). You then press the lot back together with a new wheel bearing (you can support it in a way that allows this, trust me), and away you go. Wheel bearing is about £12 or so. Dead easy and quick to do if you have a press, and also means you won't need to get the steering alignment checked, which you will have to do if you replace the entire hub assembly (which is the normal way to do it if you don't have access to a press). Having said that, either way it can be a right PITA to get the hub carrier (part 10) off the strut - most come off OK, but I've had a couple where you can't get the bolt out (part 13), one of which didn't move even when I spent an hour on it with a blowtorch after it was off the car (just to see if I could, rather than anything else). It's possible to do the bearing without removing the strut from the hub, but it would need another helper to hold the lot in the press (and of course it'd all have to come off the car which isn't that bad, just 2 bolts on the strut top). If you have a press, then go for it, but (no offence) if you're asking on here I assume that you don't.
  9. I'll have a look this afternoon... I've cleared my inbox, had no idea that had happened!
  10. That's the right sensor. No, you can't swap the other one - the MPi one is two in one - one for the ECU, one for the gauge. I think I have several in the garage that you can have for postage (had lots of spares when I had a Felicia rally car in my avatar). Cue moderators!
  11. Yeah, as you say,the problem is proving it more than anything, if you've taken it elsewhere then you don't have much chance. Still, lesson learned, and at least it'll behave itself now!
  12. I've never had a significant camber deviation on a Felicia with new wishbones - I've fitted plenty, as you can imagine - the biggest deviation was about 0.25 degree, which didn't make a significant difference and without adjustable top mounts there's not much you can do with it anyway. Toe, however, has varied a fair bit. FTR I've seen plenty of wear from toe issues, and you don't always see the textbook feathering of tyres at the edges. I had one car that was miles off, the tyres were feathered, but plenty of cars I've bought and sold have had similar issues without any feathering. Girlfriend's car has exactly that right now, and the camber is spot on. The toe isn't.
  13. I'd be surprised if you got -2.5 degrees from a worn bush... Anyway, far more likely cause of wear is that the toe in/out is off, causing the wear. Roll bar link wouldn't make any difference to it, FTR. I'd also be surprised if the rear mounting itself had moved significantly - it's been a while, but IIRC the wishbone mount's design wouldn't leave room for significant movement of the component, but either way it certainly needs to be checked after anything has been replaced. And given that they've replaced the entire arm it's unlikely that it would be dimensionally identical to the original. Poor form on their part for not having alerted you to this, though. Whenever you get any front component replaced (wishbone, bushes, joint, etc), then it's worth getting the tracking checked for this reason.
  14. ... I thought the OP had made it clear he was asking for advice, not advertising the parts. Given the amount of time it took for me to sell similar, I'd be surprised if someone would buy them having seen this thread - as I said above they're fairly niche parts for a progressively ageing car. Obviously there are fees on eBay as it reaches a huge audience, and gumtree is free, but there are plenty of other places which are free as well. But on the original point that you made, I think the £12 would only be worthwhile if it meant a sale which otherwise wouldn't have happened did so, or the price reached was considerably higher than elsewhere. In my experience that's not the case.
  15. Not really, you'd be able to sell them elsewhere without paying anywhere near that!
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