gjenck

Some interesting page of present world ... http://www.automotorblog.com/watch-counterfeit-engine-oil-russia/ some pics http://www.automotorblog.com/watch-counterfeit-engine-oil-russia/counterfeit-engine-oil-russia-10/

Also i have a question about oil change. I have my vrs mk1 since 2010 and in the first 2-3 years i used castrol edge 5w30 full synt, until once i had oil pressure problems. The engine lost oil pressure at all when i revved the engine abowe 4000rpm, the after a while the oil pressure came back suddenly. The problem was that the oil had a lot of residue/sediment and was stuckin the oil line and some of oil recirculating valve . So it was a misterious thing ,and after a google search after a Fake castrol oil i found that many pages are talking about that thay are fake castrol replicas, so i booked that was the reason. I changed to motul 5w30 8100 xclean+ ,which was working well. Now i have to change the oil and i want to change to Motul 5w30 or 5w40 300v power racing the metal packaged one to avoid the potential fake products.(sorry but for eastern europe countryes manytimes we had produced fake products specially for those countries) Now my question is that what is the difference in 5w30 and 5w40 ?? i think the thickness at warm engine is higher with 5w40 or ? It is better to change from 5w30 to 5w40 for a 208k km onboard or what does that change if a change to ? or just stick with my 5w30 used since i have the car ? The car doesnt use any extra drop of oil so the reason which i want to change to 5w40 is perhaps would be more powerfull at high temp. engine at summertime than with the 5w30 ...but its just my tought , please feedback your opinion about ! Thanx in advance

My mechanic also do the same , just he do twice the start, and without ignition just starter. The engine has enough oil to doesnt make any bad to it . Better thing is that you remove the whole used oil from the conducts.,and make more way for the new one.

doesn't use a drop mine too. But i was curious the difference between 5w30 and 5w40, also i read that 10w40 at wintertime could start had knocking engine sound for a few sec, did you had those with 10w40 ? because of thikness the could oil cannot go up to top of engine so quick perhaps...!

just a question I use motul 5w30 on my vrs mk1 2002 stage1 , so i would like to know if i change to motul 300v power 5w40 what will be the difference if would be any ? My tought is that maybe summer at hot engine the 5w40 oil would be more viscous ,stable at high degrees, but i'm curious about others opinions. Is there better to use the 5w40 in a 208k km onboard vrs or just stick with the good 5w30 as used since i have the car ??? thanx in advance

So , it seems to have a situation when its better to have a recirc dv even if im on stage 1 , and maybe fit a CAI for raising dv sound ... Do the tension of dv spring affect my boost as sometimes its waveing between 1 - 0.6 - 1 - 0.6 bar ???

I have stage 1 remap on my vrs mk1 , so it does for a short while 1.5 bar , and keeps about 1 bar ,i'm running on stock DV. My question is that do i need to change to an athmospheric BOV and which diameter ? or need to change the spring tension in my stock dv , or can i leave like it is ??? Maybe a CAI do the sound job than ... Thanx in advance ...

That spare hole for extra sensor is also M10x1 threaded ????? Because i have sensor with 1.8"-27 NPT thread !!!! Thanx for advice ...

So i will take in decision or to sell the 2 months old non oem springs and find an original one , or just take it out and cut off a bit to set to the correct height ???? It doesnt make too stiff i think as perhaps just a bit of cut from spring would be enought to reduce 1,5 cm aprox Of course the oem would be the best choice but i will take in decision how much it cost , and am i able to sell the other ones ... i'm hasitating 2 month ago , sometimes seemed its ok the height sometimes its too high ...grrrr

I measured the height... It is 67,2 both side in Front and is 59,8 RearLeft and 66,2 on the rear right , maybe because i changed at rear right the sparewheel with other pressure,size of tyre ...(rear right 225/45r17 rear left 205/50r17) In the front is just 2.2 bar pressure , it seemed to be a bit less than it needed i used before 2.4 ,2.5 but now thay changed at the service and thay filled just 2.2 so it is 7mm higher than it was posted by silver bullet on the front , but it seems to be higher at sight. dont know ... i can put 3 fingers easyly (almost 4:)between top of tyre and wheel arc and thats a bit high... Also i saw some of original (factory) Vrs pics on the net vhere the front sets higher than the back of the car ... Can be higher caused by the Shocks ?? Bigger gas pressure or something ?

I agree with PaulMig as i had also the same thermostat problem , heat never goes beyond 80grade and drops to 60 on highway, i had a small obd2 to bluetooth adapter connected to my phone app "Torque" and i diagnosed the Thermostat problem .. Also i had for 2 years the Pressure drop between turbo and throtle valve , i had until now changed almost all of my PCV circuit hoses, it corroded from oil and broke , now is going perfect without problem in ECU and is more more powerfull. Until now i changes the Whole PCV in the pic attached below... the Bottom L shaped was cracked totally before 1 year, the 2 S shaped also cracked one before 2 months ago and the second one before 15 months ago , the Y shaped and another one i changed 1 months ago , it caused big stutter on IDLE and many CEL problems in ecu , also changed the T shape as it was like chewinggum http://www.google.ro/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fi391.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo358%2FVanilaFejs%2FAUQ%2Fawesomebreathers.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.skodacroatia.com%2Fforum%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D8942.0&h=448&w=449&tbnid=heXksnjAdnxu6M%3A&zoom=1&docid=3aoVvx50qjx9XM&ei=VhBNU93FKcjNygOc6oLoAg&tbm=isch&ved=0CAoQMygCMAI4rAI&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=1546&page=15&start=283&ndsp=22 i know it is old posts but it should be usefull for someone ...

Mine is sitting exactly the same height :( , after changing the whole suspension in the front as it was broken both springs and the dumpers was completely bad. I didnt changed to OEM parts , springs are Lejsjofors and the dumper (shocks) are KYB (kayaba) , I' m desperated as it settled higher alot then before , of course if it was broken springs was too low but anyway it is far higher thanit should be . I dont know which is guelty , the shocks , the springs , or the rubber suspension bearing holder ??? I didnt notice any paintmarks on the new springs ... I will measure the height from ground to wheel arc. But anybody know where it should measure the ground clearance of 119mm ??? Thanx in advance Heres the link to my google drive with some pics https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B2gHOJpLd8MEWjlaMGUzcHBua1E&usp=sharing The dirty car pics are about 1 months settled , the other pics are about 3 month ago settled ..

Yess i realized , after found some interesting sheme of the suspension . Now i have to change the rear shocks. I found Monroe E1222 or Monroe 23890 ... someone have some suggestion ??? Or if you know pro and contra's about some brands to use in vrs on rear ??

its almost like mine , maybe 1 cm lower anyway , as far as i will change back to 17" than i can compare better. Sorry i dont know the english name of that rubber thing which is also must change with shock absorbers , i think its comming on the top of the damper... There is difference in that rubber for Vrs and for Normal Octavia ???

Thanx for your suggestions , ... now i see the things more closely but there is still some fog aroud lets explain a bit my notices. So i had broken springs , so i ordered the lesjofors springs as i was also hasitating to find the special one for VRS exactly,. It seemed that this spring is specially for vrs as it was suggested just for vrs on many sites i found and markets. So when arrived, my mechanic removed the old one and said that i need to change the dampers too because of bad dumpers was broken my spring. In time rush he could change just one of the springs as it comes the christmas. So it was fitted one new spring on the left side of car , and anything else was remain as old.(until the dumpers will arrive ) I was surprized as the height it was the same as the right side where everything was old ,unchanged. So my conclusion was that the new spring didnt raised the cars height ! After the dampers came (i also find just one type of replacement so i think it should be specialy the same as the oem part , at least in dimensions), and my mechanic changed the whole things which usually people change in this case , the car raised xx mm i dont know exactly but it seem so me about 25-30 mm The mechanic said that the car should settle a bit. And now i have the winter tyres on 16 rims so maybe when i will put back the 17" summer tyre/rims and the car will be settled the height will be a bit lower , maybe close how it was before...?? I hope so , but im frustrated from the ideea that im fitted the wrong dampers ? Thats why i asked if someone have a recent oem suspension on his vrs could be compared the height or by measure or by photos. I made some photos , just take in mind that the car have now 16" rims ...

It was fitted about 3-4 days ago ... (also i have 16" winter tyres so maybe it will be more smaller gap between tyretop and fender-arc after i set back the 17" summers)

I have a question about the suspension of my 2002 VRS 1.8 20v AUQ Mk1 Recently i bought new Front suspension system for my vrs. I could not afford the original parts which was far too expensive to my pocket. so i decide the best aftermarket /similar parts as i could find. I changed the springs to lesjofors and dampers to KYB (kayaba)., and other things too like tower block bearing etc. My question is that the car now is a bit higher , so i have aprox 3cm more space between the top of the tyre and the front fender arc, and can be possible or it is normal that the car is gets higher after suspension renew ?? or the damper could be for other model or taller ??? My mechanic said that it is because there is (sorry i dont know exactly the name ) some rubber blocker or what and that was weared after many years. so after changed to new one could be the rise of the car front. There is someone of you who have the same mk1 vrs with original suspension ? maybe can someone measure the lenght from the wheelbase to fender arc ... could be usefull Any suggestion is welcome Thanx in advance

Yes i have in my city someone who sandpainting and selling such a steel plates for many brands, so i will contact him as it protect alot of the engine bay. I got my lesjofors springs , i checked quick , but at first time i didnt see any of the coloring dots , what i found is a part number or something, but i will check better later ...

I was ordered a pair of Lesjöfors , so i\m awaiting for with patience , and i\m really curiouse what it will be the mark on it , as your indication with dotmarks. Thanx for replies, i hope also that it would be close as original as i dont want to kick down once again the oil sump in at the first bump

I have a question . Someone can suggest which brand of Front spring to choose ??? I have front left broken from two days now , and i have to change . At the shop thay said that the original one is about 100euro /piece and is anotherone for 45 euro which is Lesjofors.(LESJOFORS 4085714) I think that RS oktavia 1.8 T (AUQ) have stiffer suspension so it is not similar to normal octavia suspension !!?? if i'm right It is better to buy a pair of lesjofors springs and would be like originals ?? I saw another brand called KYB ...its a bit cheeper whats about this one ? Any suggestions are wellcome THX

i'm in Odorheiu city in Romania. We have no special chiptuning modders,garages here,but i have a frend who can read the ecu map (have a lot of car diagnostic boxes and works alot with diagnosis) so he have colaborating with a chiptuning specialist , so we read the ecu send the map ,thay remap and we can rewrite the new map so if you say that is worth doing than i give a try ,just to save the funds for The car is still working fine , pulling way better so ,the cleaning was awesome effect

I agree with you that changing more frequently may protect more from failure .So i will watch out more confident next time , and also maybe the Motul oil will do the job as i dont need to change to anotherone , strange thing is that before my 5l can of castrol edge was different from which i bought last time , in meaning of how it looks the can ,this last one is was like some fake manufacturing. So any otherone who have opinion about Prolong ?? I waiting to get some suggestions , before to use it . Anyone of you have chipped engine , and worth it any opinion ?? Thanx

Finally we solved the problem We found that the oil was sludgy at all at least in the oil pickup was stucked , some broken plastic also was inside pickup. We found a valve clogged in the oil filter housing , . so we took off bearings also to check for wear and apparently failure due no oilpressure , but we found everything ok, also checked the camshaft was ok too. So we cleaned all the oil ways up n down , we cleaned also both the oil pump and oil filter housing. I changed oil , oil filter , air filter , pollen filter ,fuel filter . but the mostly important thing that i used the same 5w30 oil but another brand Motul 8100 specific as i dont trust anymore in castrol edge :(( at least here east in romania possibli we have fake products.) My mechanic suggested to use 10w40 but i remain with 5w30 because i read a lot here and in other forum that is better to use the same as was built for the engine. So after all , the engine now is working fine , running smoother ,quiter, and i tested at 5000-6000 rpm and no oil pressure error at all, and today morning when i started the engine -4 grade i had no any camsound as was before . The other thing is that the car pulls more better from 2000 rpm now , is way changed in performance . So i can get the conclusion of maybe bad oil quality could done that mess in the engine . I'm happy that is no other failure in the engine ... So i bought metabond threater for gearbox and prolong for engine treatment. I dont put yet the prolong as i want to check the engine for a while whithout prolong , so enyone have experience with prolong ????? Thanx in advance

Hi I faced with a similar problem a while ago . I had been using mostly my car travelling in my city , but last time a hade to go further to an airport and after an our of driving , after a high rev (overtakeing) aprox 4000-5000 rpm i got the red oil lamp blinking with audible beep . As i couldnt stopped i should move 500m more on the hill to get a parking place , so i heard that my cams was knocking as a could hear from inside. The strange thing is that after a while of pause i started the engine and the red oil light was gone and the engine has the normal engine sound , nothing unusual. So i could arrive at home with no problems. After 2 months later i got same oil lamp when i was revving the engine in red , so i stated that there is a permanent problem ... :( the strange thing that after a while (or next day) the car going well and without noisy engine without problems , so i used the car to get to my work and was no oil lamp at all . Of course i just drive usually 2-3 km to my job and back , and small 2-3 km mileages in town. As i knew that maybe is there some temporally oil pressure probolems i put metabond eco in the oil to protect an eventual engine failure until a can go to my mecanic frend to inspect the engine !! So before put the metabond eco i had to warm the engine so i was warming up about 15 min so i filled with the metabond so i went to a ride to mixing and flewing the oil in every part of the engine so i take a 40-50 km ride It was no problem until i made an overtake and i did again high revs so it comes again the red oil lamp ..damn... when i stopped i heard again the knocking cams so it was scarry .stopped the engine. After an hour i started the engine to check if i can drive to home or not , as i started it heard the camsnoise then after 10-15 sec gone and the engine had the right noise without any unusuall. (At that point i was angry on me also that i didnt checked before with my mecanic and my unluck that everytime is appeared this oil lamp when i was out of my city grrr) So i decided to try travel to home aprox 1500rpm So i got no error MIL just when i get in my city and i passed 2500-3000 rpm ...so ... Today i went to the mecanic so we wanted to make first time an oil pressure test . (our tough is that can be a broken spring or dirtyness in that valve in the oilpump , or a stucked oil pickup strainer ...) We put the oil pressure gauge in the place of oilpressure sensor... So we started the engine and we got aprox 1.3 bar and after 15 min it was like the same so went to a ride with the gauge on it . we had 2.5-2.9 bar in normal revs , but i made my testrun with high revs , and after i made 4000-5000rpm the oil pressure drop almost totally to about 0.3 bar and remains there with again knocking cams. We stopped for a while , and we put it back the sensor , while the engine cools down a bit too so we tried to start the engine wich was reverted to the normal state .! no eroor no knocking ...so we diceded to remove the sump and examine the pump and the valve also with the oil pickup strainer so i'm not using the car until we fixing ... So any suggestion its welcome ... I mention that i know i know that i'm too optimist in this way and it was a big risk to use my car so long from the first oil MIL so for now just my hopes dont disolve Anybody had similar problem and what else should be or which of these are most possible to cause ? Thank you in advance (Skoda Octavia 2002 VRS 1.8T 20v AUQ ,180000km onboard, Castrol Edge 5W30 changed less than a year,metabond filled 3 days ago ,i had oil sump repaired before 12 month ago as i gotr a crack as i got a stone under the car and perhaps some sealing also could drop inside and stuck something ?)

Hi for some time ago it appearing an error code P0171 on my RS Octavia Mk1 2002. I just use some cheap bluetooth obd with my phone (torque) , so the error it was just in the ecu not on MIL .After a while the error appeared more freqvently and become a permanent error code written in red Then appeared on dashboard too (mil). So i had to find a solution to resolve the problem . As i read in many forums , likely is the MAF or Broken hose, or O2 , i started with hoses because last year i had two hoses broken. I started to check by listening at the engine and while i was concentrating on a special leak sound , i started to move the pipes all around, was hard with those on bottom part of pcv. Then i heard the leak sound changing in frequency gotcha ,,....i touched the whole hose by finger and found two cracks. I changed with home made way better quality hose and i cleared the error code from the ecu. Today morning i tested and drived 5-10 km and the error did not came back and the car was pulling way better , the idle was smoother than before i think ,so i'm happy , and hope that this error not comming back soon The cost was 0 , just 10min diagnosing and finding the problem , and 30 min to change . I just shared my case because more solved problems lead to help people quicker and more precise.