semm

SOLD

Price drop to £3750

Thanks for your comments, guess I need to be more patient. Don't really want to see her go, but an opportunity to buy one of my bucket list cars (the Integra Type-R in the background) for a great price means that she has to go!

Hmmm, thought this would be snaffled up, but not been the case. Too expensive? Not a desirable colour? Mods not wanted? Most standard cars with this mileage advertised at 4 to 4.5k.

55 plate Fabia vRS for sale. Very good condition Fabia which is both rapid and economical. 70K miles, cambelt done at 43K. Shark remap to 170hp and Jabba RARB. FSH until 3 years ago, then all servicing by myself. Receipts for all parts. Serviced with premium quality oil (Shell Helix Ultra Extra, Petronas Syntium, Castrol Edge) Just had an oil service and 2 new tyres (Goodyear Eagle F1) Specced with cruise control and heated seats. £3750 ono Southampton Pics: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B-4clvhUc7oLbjB0d0cyNmMzOWc&usp=sharing

If you want to keep the running costs down, have you considered a 1.9 Octavia (90hp or 110hp, bosch pump) running an SVO/Diesel/Petrol mix? I think the last of these were up to about 2004. I ran mine like this for 20K miles before selling it on with no issues (in fact it ran quieter and smelled wonderful). Easily got 55mpg, with an average fuel price less than a £1/l. The cheapest oil I bought was 72p/l for the best SVO (rapeseed) from Asda. Funny looks wheeling out 200 bottles though. Its also completely legit.

Not noticed any performance improvement on V power (subjective) and no improvement in mpg (less subjective), so I don't think it is worth the extra money. However I think paying 1p a litre extra (compared to my local supermarket) for Shell Fuelsave is worth the extra for the additives.

If he has a couple of joints nothing will get done.

A lot of people think the brakes are not upto the job (I agree), so if you are sticking with standard discs I recommend spending a bit extra on some better pads.

If its got a Bosch fuel pump.

You could also veggie oil the sdi for even cheaper motoring and revel in the feeling of not paying as much fuel tax.

As others have said, depends on what you want it for. A DSLR will give you the most control, but you you may end up needing several lens and not want to carry all these around with you. A bridge camera might cover all the bases you require in one package. I bought a Panasonic FZ200 earlier this year and think it is very good for what it is (decent zoom lens at constant F2.8, panarama mode, 200fps video).

Everytime it rains, I get this squeaking rubber noise somewhere in the front. After drying out it goes away. Any pointers?

Guess these are pretty rare now. Phoned Mintex and they said they didn't make them anymore. Anyway found a company called Auto Performance Products who were able to supply me a set. Fitted over the weekend with new Brembo discs and run in with their 1144 procedure. So far so good and much better than what I took off, but obviously not able to compare against a new set of std parts.

Where can I get mintex 1144 front pads (vRS)?

I did this over the weekend, and found the guide to be very useful. My biggest pain in the backside was getting the part of the engine mount that attaches to the engine out and back in. Also I found the new cambelt quite a tight fit to get on even with the tensioner slackened and the idler pulley not present, not what I have experienced with other (petrol) engines that I have done.

Hi, I had a very similar error code to this (on a 2.0 SLXi, engine code AQY) which was intermittent, but when the warning light came on there was a noticeable drop in power and mpg. I would imagine that if the ECU does not know where the camshaft is it will have to switch from sequential injection to batch injection (based on crankshaft sensor). The sensor was replaced and lives in the cylinder head behind the camshaft sprocket, so is a cambelt off job unfortunately.

I don't think new veg oil is recommended in direct injection diesels, even in sub 20 percentages, unless you have a proper 1 tank or 2 tank conversion done. In the short term it will be ok, but some long term reports have indicated that the piston rings will get gummed up along with a lot of coking. Steve

Hi All, Recently picked up a year 2000 GLX TDi estate and after a few days the electric mirrors and all electric windows stopped working. I eventually tracked the problem down to a blown fuse (F14) which is described as "interior lighting" but also seems to feed the convenience unit. I hadn't noticed that the interior lights weren't working and I probably blew the fuse twiddling with a broken switch on the interior light unit above the rear view mirror. Rgds Steve

My year 2000 2.0 AQY SLXi estate has just devloped this fault. Will see if the fuse trick does anything. Rgds Steve

I have a 2.0 which uses about 2L every 8K (year). I change the oil every year with valvoline durablend at

Hi All, My 2.0 slxi has developed a problem which shows up as a 16725 error code (camshaft position sensor - implausible signal) and engine warning light on. The car also exhibits some strange engine behaviour: 1) Engine warning light will go off for a couple of days and seem to drive normally. 2) Engine warning light comes on with a slight loss of power for a couple of days. 3) Engine warning light stays on with a large loss of power for a couple of days and then the cycle starts again at 1). I have done some research and incorrect cam timing has been know to cause this, so I checked this and adjusted it (out by 1 tooth), but the problem remains. Has anybody else experienced this behaviour and is the next step just to replace the CPS? I would like to be certain it is the CPS before I change it as it costs

Hi All, I have had two electric windows break in 9 months. On both occasions the falling component is the piece of plastic which sits in the runner and connects to the bottom of the window. Is this a common problem or am I unlucky? Rgds Steve