rolo

just read this thread, err, where do you find chicks who are impressed by lowered felly`s?

Found that just doing the conversions to 256 & 300mm discs (ford calipers) front and vw mk2 discs/mk3 calipers rear works good without making it complicated

Price is reasonable. But if you are near me could(ve)do(ne) better for turbo and manifold. No longer got any oil filter housings but have a made up downpipe that joined a 1z t15 turbo to under the gearbox. Depends on distance whether its any use to you but its free. What you need to make it run is a manual turbo pump if its staying an aef. aaz, jx, jr, 1v or any gtd pump will work, also a landrover discovery will work and fit the aef bracket, but abit over the top. Also consider the std diesel clutch will just about hold 90bhp from a diesel although the less torquey petrol is contained by the smaller petrol clutch at 125bhp. Oh and a modified aaz inlet manifold is the best way to close the bonnet.

When I fitted the afh had a random, low rev, misfire that caused the engine to die but start straight away after. It was caused by the coil ht lead shorting to earth at the coil top. Couldn`t find it till I saw it happen. Massive sparks. Fresh, correct lead cured it - expensive new and no aftermarket unless you buy the set- had a spare from the conversion- sorted in a minute.

1.9 diesel with a bosch pump. If you blow lamp the joins the wings come off. Usually to reveal problems around the top rail.

Yes make sure its not from a 98 pickup.

Sounds like the throttle body is playing up. Good idea to check for fault codes first though. A tb reset with a full vagcom may be necessary, although disconnecting the battery overnight and then reconnecting followed by turning on ignition without touching accelerator for 2mins may do it. Contact points inside the throttle body activate the tickover circuit.These are accessible inside the black cover and may be dirty. Clean the throttle flap and venturi first. Other suspects are temp sensor,ecu and a poor connection with the multi plug on the inlet mani that links manifold pressure /temp to the ecu. Yes been through a few steps getting a good stable tickover on the fun lately

the repair kits for the uj`s are available but arkward to do. Fitted two complete new ones but had to cut and weld the rod and make it so that both can be completely removed and new units fitted.

If its been noisy its probably been bottoming out the original shockers. Springs are available from any motor factors may be worth pricing some and then checking against the heavy duty factory ones that are slightly lower than the stds but stronger

thats what it was on yes. i wanted the a6 springs for the caddy and so took the whole lot off to even it up, brakes as well so the fun wheels could go back on and there`d be a spare wheel that`d go on the front again. The caddy now has 4 spares as the 17 wolferace and the 15" tsw`s both fit over the 300mm brake set up

worth knowing as the full bit was discontinued about 18 months ago when I wanted one

Use the felly struts and favorit springs. The favorit platforms are higher, (so you can fit taller wheels and higher the gearing) . The favorit springs are thinner and longer but give a good drop and work ok. Just returned the fun to original suspension and brakes to put some stuff on the diesel pickup and I`d say its a couple of inches different. Springs are cheap pm me.

yea, proper satin black is gloss with a small quantity of matting agent added and not porous. The wing repair looks like bare metal not etched then too little primer was the problem.

Will have to disagree on that tom.

Hope you didn`t lube well near the starter clutch!

Might be worth removing the plastic scuttle panel, needs wipers removing and those awkward plug fixings and see if water`s going under it and through what are called the left hand drive wiper mounts which never seem to be covered with anything and those plugs you`ve just pried out probably need sealing too. A single pack polyurethane sealer such as tiger seal is very effective in this situation.

If they are genuine panels the coating is oven baked etch primer. For best results wash with meths or prepaint wipe then flat well but leave as much as possible on-very fine abrasive sponges are good for this, then prime and paint. I use a non sand etch primer on top then colour.

Starter nose is the front of the aluminium housing that the mounting bolts fit through. The bush you need to replace sits there behind the grease seal, it is the only bush to support the pinion, nothing supports the other end. Slight play in it makes a big difference when amplified to the end of the throw. If there is play within the drive itself as well the gear barely meshes with the flywheel. As I said, the best way to repair one is to use a 10 tooth golf one for bits.

Won`t edit, so I`ll add. If the circlip doesn`t hold the pinion in tight and there is slop the self destruction starts. When I replace just the starter clutch unit I weld the circlip to the shaft

You can replace the bush in the end of the starter nose, it makes a big difference. I sourced a new one from an auto electrical wholesaler. It is very common for it to wear. The early golf tdi starter I use for the drive units also has the same bearing and doesn`t seem to wear the same so I swop that too.

Heavier front but not a lot, had the complete favorit legs on the diesel for a bit to clear the 195/65/15`s that were on to higher the gearing as its got an mtdi in it. Can`t recall anything untoward. I`ve read that focus coilovers work well. The diesel now wears teflon tom motorsport coilies, the how to is on here somewhere.

1300 favorit springs on the 1600 fun about 40/45mm.

that favorit estate breaking will have springs on the front that will lower your felly. Got favorit front springs on the fun

`bout £30ish. Very simple to change, less than 5mins.

Temp sensor circuit is wrong resistance, new vw sensor is first check.