Martyn-vrs

Do you still have the car? If you do then I'd be interested in a price for the boot locking mechanism (to include the motor & both sections of the latch). Cheers

On a slightly different angle mate, are u still suffering from back/neck pain?? Was involved in an accident where a woman went thro a red light and hit me side on in ma company car. Suffered from back and neck pain for months so I put a claim in. They take a while to get sorted, but for the time it takes u to fill out a form and possibly go for an examination then it will be worth it. I know some peoples opinion on this subject will be negative, however the way I look at it is you didn't go out of your way to get injured. If you do suffer from pain then you are entitled to compensation.

When you actualy work out the avg annual mileage 4 a lot of the cars listed they work out to be not far off the national avg. Mines for instance, 04 plate, registered between March-August 2004 = 7yr old. Therefore just over 15K miles a year ; )

VR6South - 53 plate 118,000 Matt1chelski - 155,000 chrisw880 - 52 plate (PD100) - 146,000 Thirdtimeluck - 05 plate - 140,000 Trevorb33 - 05 plate - 138,000 AlpineWhite - 06 plate - 116,000 Ricardo Smooth - 04 plate - 115,000 Recoil - 07 plate - 114,000 STE372 - 06 - 108000 Martin-vrs - 04 plate - 106,000 PastyBoy - 04 plate - 104,000

Just a thot.... Does your car have a sunroof? Sealed my doors three times! to find water still coming in. Turned out to be coming from the sunroof down a drain pipe which was kinked and leaked into the rear footwell, instead of out to the exterior of the car. Try also using sikaflex ebt, available from srewfix it sets well in damp/wet conditions and is also easily finished smooth.

Got the sunroof and heated seats, well worth searching for these in my opinion

honestly mate get yourself down to halfords and buy some Autoglym Interior Foam Cleaner. Its realy easy to use and from my experiences of getting my car valeted you end up with a better result. Its around £6, so wont break the bank

just a wee update: I have managed to get the exterior lock working manualy. I then tried the recoding procedure mentioned above, dosent seem to work with myself. Searching the internet hasnt resulted in any other answers. Any other ideas on how to programme your key so it will work remotely??

was think of wd40, will get it looked out and give it ago (cant hurt)

Dont have a key slot in the passenger door, can manage to get the key into the door however it wont turn and dont realy want to force it

Not sure if this will work mate as the drivers lock will not operate manualy for some reason. Will give it a go tho

Wonder if anyone can help?? My girlfriend sent out an sos to me today to come and pick her up due to not being able to open the car with her key. She tried the lock manually however it wouldnt go all the way in and therefore wouldnt open, when you press the key it gives a red light but nothing happens. I have done the most obivious and replaced the battery, nothing happening tho... Cant understand why my key works but the other one wont. Help / ideas will be much appreciated, Cheers Martyn

I would agree with the every1 else, mileage wouldnt put me off as long as the car has been reguarly serviced and they can provide evidence/reciepts. My car is nearly at 100k and is running very good, i drive a lot of newer compnay cars and the skoda always puts a huge smile on my face when i get in it.

Hi wondering if you guys can help, my brothers octavia vrs is currently showing two warning lights. The first one came on yesterday, its the Diesel fuel filter warning light. The second one came on today which is the glowplug warning light. What could possibly be bringing both of these lights on? From what i have been told the car appears to be running ok Cheers in advance

The car came fitted with it aswell as the miltek exhaust. Starperformance fitted them both at the same time and it cost the guy around 1k - got the reciept somwhere if you want the exact amount. The quality of work appears to be excellent, have been to Starperformance myself and was realy impressed with the setup. I would point out that the switchable remap isnt something that i tend to use. Normaly i just keep the remap on (around 170bhp) as the car drives well ...very smooth map with a good power and torque band. Defo go to Starperformance, u wont regret it

Exterior: 17"Spiders bought from Taz (dark grey) - Eibachs/Coilovers needed desperatly lol LCR front splitter Repainted front and rear callipers Brakes/Performance: PD160 intake K&N air filter 322mm front brake setup - Recently new discs and pads all round. Front strut brace Miltek Exhaust form turbo back Switchable Remap - installed/supplied by Starperformance. Car came with some of the above alredy done, my plan at the time was to leave well alone apart from general maintenance/servicing every 6k (approx) .....oh how things change when you see a nice set of wheels for sale lol. Now need to spend more £ on lowering as its now like a 4x4 with the spiders on.

Got a 1.4 diesel Auris as a company car, drives nice and has proven to be reliable so far (1.5yrs approx 32k miles). Average MPG is around 52, even tho i drive it hard. The only problem i can think of is the seats are uncomfy/not easy to adjust. My own opinion is that i wouldnt spend my money on the auris as its not my cup of tea although there is nothing realy wrong wae it. Hope this helps a bit

This happend to me the other nite when trying to fill up. Turned out to be frozen shut, just gave it a we thud and it then opened. Just as well only had 30miles left in the tank!! Hope you get it sorted easily bud

1st = corsa B 1.2 2nd = Focus 1.8 3rd = MK2 Golf 8v GTI (spent more time sorting than driving lol) 4th = Mk4 Astra GSI (brilliant car) 5th = Fabia VRS (another brilliant car)

Having used roof and gutter seal and having to remove it due to it failing, i can say that its not an easy job. Although iv not had to remove sikaflex ebt, i dont see it being a problem. It sets like silicone, which wasnt to bad to get off. Anyway - preperation is definately key in this job.

Just giving my personal preference, honestly i found sikaflex ebt the best/easiest to work with. Posted this with the hope that other people dont need to go to the hassle that I went to. My brother used silicone on his car with a positive result after the 2nd application. However on my car it didnt work and yes I applied a decent amount.

As like so many others my car has also recently suffered form water getting into the back footwell. I was fortunate as my bro had a fabia vrs and had also encounterd this prob so we new what we were doing when it came to fixing/sealing. Like the majority of the other fabias suffering from this problem water was entering my car between the door and the carrier, ie the seal had failed. However i found that there was some differences on hear as to what sealant should be used around the carrier. From what i read there was two choices silicone sealant or roof gutter sealant. 1st and 2nd attempt - I used silicone based sealant these which I found were not extremely effective to bond to the alluminium carrier. 3rd attempt - as recommended by others I tried roof gutter sealant, this was the hardest to smooth and achieve the necessary seal. 4th attempt - By working in the construction industry i got my hands on a Bitumnen/Rubber Based sealant, this was easier to achieve a bond with the carrier. However due to the recent bad weather it did not manage to cure in time before becoming wet. 5 attempt - I should say at this point I was realy fed up doing this and contemplated selling the car for an easy life!! After further looking into the sealants that would work/set whilst wet i settled on Sikaflex EBT (available from screwfix at £6.99) This sealant was very easy to apply and even easier to smooth/create a good seal. Sikaflex EBT was also the best for drying time, set in approx 24hrs. That is my car finaly fully sealed, would defo recommend Sikaflex EBT. Yes it is a bit more expensive but the time saved applying/smoothing is well worth the extra couple of quid.

I have the 312mm brakes and cant say that ive ever thought of this?!? Suppose what you could do is put the spare on the rear and swap the rear wheel with the punctured front wheel. Double the work, but at least you could then drive it again :yes:

Luckily for me the car door eventually opened, think it must have been frozen. Will be putting WD40 in th lock mechanisim asap just in case it was a stiff lock. cheers for the help guys

Car wont open from inside, tried even putting my shoulder into it. Hav tried a bit of de-icer in the lock, will need to try again when i get home from work. What should i try if the suggestions above dont work?