simonjr

Hi, I did post a follow up to the issue above but for some reason it didn't appear in the thread. Anyhow... For the first day or so the immo light flashed - I'd say once every 15 times. Turning ignition off and on again rectified it. For the last month or so, though, we've had no issues. I now ask the missus to hold the ignition in position 2 and look at the light before attempting to start. Since we have been doing this (light checking) the immo light has never flashed. So - either there was a bit of fault code remnant floating around OR by simply giving the car an extra 2 seconds before moving from position I to II the fault has gone. All in all a great result. Did the soldering work? I can't tell, but seeing as the car now has no issues (well not this issue anyway) I'm going to see it was 100% worth doing and actually a pretty simple job too. Thanks guys - much appreciated. Simon

Ok, so thanks to Wino the soldering has now been done. Actually quite a straight-forward job apart from; Managed to drop my tork spanner down behind the dash (school boy error) - which took a few minutes to retrieve. and battery went flat while continually turning the ignition for 2 days etc. There were a few codes in the system (haven't got them written down as of now- will get and post tomorrow) - but they were all immo based and as suspected. Cleared them down after re-fitting the dash and it's a case of trickle charging over night and then see where we are. Big thanks for the input and will let you know how things pan out - in case it helps someone else. Cheers. Simon

That's really helpful - and almost looks do-able ;-) I'm in sunny Bristol, by the way. I'll read through again tomorrow and see if I have the guts to go for it. Cheers. Simon

Hello again, Ok so today everything has "nearly" been great with the little fabia. I have been starting it up many times and took it on a trip too. No problem with starting apart from on two occasions the immo light flashed - after which I had the standard start up and then drop revs to stall. Remove the key, put it back in (and let the immo light go out alongside the other lights) and starts no problem. However.. This car needs to be reliable as it's for getting to appointments for the missus so I do need to at least look at the options. From what I've read on this thread, and a number of others, it looks like I have a couple of options; (please feel free to tell me which option isn't actually an option) ;-) Replace the ECU that doesn't have the immo on it - seen a few on ebay (not worried about having no immo) Get the cluster out and have it re-formed? - I don't seem to be able to find any info' on this so no idea how difficult this is Send my ECU off and have the immo part removed I got excited on ebay when I spotted an OBD reader that would turn off the immo. I think that's for different models though? Does the 1.4 mpi have a different setup? I'm reluctant to start ripping bits out as I know how that'll end up - so any advice on my best option (and contacts if available) would be greatly appreciated. I think I'm in hope it keeps working mode at the moment, but doesn't seem the best medium term solution - as I know I'll get a call from the missus stuck 1 hr away. Cheers all. Simon

Ok, so here's my update. Visited the car today armed with my laptop and PSMCAN and VCDS and also a handheld code reader. Plugged VCDS in and struggled with the com ports etc - seemed to be going through loads of ports without finding the codes. Then plugged the handheld in and after a minute said, "no codes found". Bummer.. Then I turned the ignition off and back on again - this time the immobiliser light went out, hmmm.... Cranked the engine and started first time with no drop in revs and subsequent stall. Did it again - same result, plus the engine light had gone out. Checked the half-baked attempt at connecting the fuel pump and reseated the pipes to ensure they were "in". At the cost of a nasty petrol burn to my hand - all Ok now. Car was left for 15 minutes running - then I took the journey home (5 miles) in it. No more lights on and have since started it up 1st time on 3 occasions. So all seems well - no idea what had happened, so the plan is to leave it outside and keep cranking the engine to make sure the fault doesn't come back - in which case I'll have to take proper action. Was it the fuel pump and an erroneous immo' issue? Who knows. I'm going to properly check for codes tomorrow to see if anything lurks in the ECU. I forgot to take the info' with me about "key in, key out, hold trip..." etc, but half remembered it and I did actually do that. Actually the odometer did flash 0000 so seemed to be asking for a code. Maybe that did something. Anyway, I will report back on any further issues and also to report if the problem went away, but wanted to thank you all for putting your time in. Cheers. Simon

>sepulchrave I'd deffo' be up for giving that a go, but without a clue about removing it, knowing which bits to solder etc - I'd be completely lost and probably cause more harm than good. I'm not afraid of having a go - I replaced the steering angle sensor, brake light switch, drivers door lock and a load of standard service type stuff, but the electronics? Out of my depth I think (sadly). I'll try a few of the ideas above and report back. Thanks for the input guys.. Oh.. just wondering - does anyone have an idea on whether the immo' lamp would come on the very first time the car had the problem? This might rule out a fuel line issue , which was my initial focus with all of this. It could then mean I only had one issue - a "failing" immo system - much more likely then for me to have a go at all of this. Thanks again. Simon

Hmm, that's interesting. I did replace the expansion tank about 8 months ago. Also replaced the coolant temp sensor. Afterwards, we still had the coolant level indicator on the dashboard, even though there was plenty of coolant in there. I used some snake oil (as there seemed to be a load of mayo on the coolant cap (even after the new one). The snake oil did solve both problems so didn't think any more about it. Sounds like I could have a whole bunch of issues going forward. Might be time for the great car-park in the sky ;-(

Thanks for the reply. I'll give a few of those suggestions a go and report back. Thanks again for taking the trouble. Simon

Hello everyone. I thought I'd add to this thread rather than starting a new one. I have the issues above, but I wanted to give a full explanation. (car is 2002 Fabia 1.4 mpi) A month or so ago, my wifes car starting having issues when it was started. It would rev a bit and then as the revs started to drop you needed to get on the gas a bit. Anyway, I thought this was just a bad running car - so changed the air and oil filter (needed doing anyway). This made no difference and I guess it was about once per day she would have the starting issue - although it normally started on the 2nd or 3rd time. I then changed the spark plugs. Same problem. I was going to change the fuel filter this week, but as she was working she needed the car. Anyway, got a call yesterday - car won't start at all. So I trecked over there and the following; Car would try to start, run for 1 second, then the revs drop. Then the car would not even try to fire up. After about 5 mins it seems almost if some fuel gets to the engine and back to the start, rev drop, car cuts out - then it won't even turn over. I decided to then replace the fuel filter - as this seems to sort of explain the symptoms. This hasn't worked. I noticed today, however, that both the engine light AND the imobiliser light are on and remain on. So, here's the questions; Is it possible that this starting issue gets progressively worse (up until the point I am at now)? Would the imobiliser light have flashed at the start of the symptoms? or does it only kick in at a later point (where I am now)? I'm trying to work out if the issue was always the imobiliser or whether I had an initial fuel issue which has now triggered the imobiliser issue ie I have 2 problems. 2 problems probably means the end of the car as it won't be economical to repair, unfortunately. Any help anyone can offer would be hugely appreciated. Oh, I'm in Bristol by the way - not sure if that helps (probably not). Thanks.

Thanks for the replies. I think the thing to do is to plug it in and see what it says. Might try that little label code - you never know. If it doesn't work, I'll consider the options. If the dealer can do it with the reg' and the serial number then that's a good result. Read so many stories about having to have the guts ripped out, chips read from the motherboard etc etc. There's security and then there's VW security ;-(

Afternoon chaps. I recently bought a symphony cd player for my wife for xmas. She has on 02 fabia with a cassette player. I've been a ford man for a few years and can just grab a code online. I'm starting to have worries about this skoda unit though. Can I say that I will NOT ever be able to get a code online for this radio? It's out of a written off VRS so won't know her ECU. If I go to skoda will they actually be able to code it for me? Would I need to find (in the bristol area) someone that can take the chop data and regrogram it? I'd love to plug it in to her car for a quick look, but a/ its a xmas present and b/ she's always out in it ;-( On the player I have; **************** technisat symphony 6Y0035156C YD5 41/03 sm_ 0004 SKZAZ8C 19XXX13 * (3 x's added in instead of the actual number) **************** Now the thing that's intriguing me is the sm_ 0004 bit. That label looks much newer than the others. Could it possibly be the radio code do you think? I think this is unlikely, but does anyone else have a little sticker on the side with something like that? Any recommendations for the Bristol area? Skoda dealer here is very good and helpful, but I'd rather get it done a bit cheaper if possible - turning in to a very expensive present ;-(

Thanks guys. Went to the delaer and ordered the key coded lock for £31.50 - which seems like a bargain to me. Of course, it hasn't arrived yet (3 weeks) so I'll wait to see before jumping up and down. Just fiddling with the old (broken) lock - as when it's in place you can sort of turn it and this is better than nothing. Stupidly though I just unscrewed the top holding tork screw and it fell out inside the door ;-( I've had the door panel half off and no way to get to it, so... Anyone know what size that screw/ bolt thing is? I know its trx 20, but this could be a bit of an issue. I'd take the other door lock off to have a look but think I might be asking for trouble doing that. Also the door handle (the bit you pull to open the door) seems really badly fitting now. You have to sort of push it in to get it to fully line up shut. Hopefully that'll sort itself out when the new part arrives. Never rains but it pours. Thanks. Simon

Hi, I'm in exactly the same boat. My lock was screwdrivered and can be opened by the key, but also by anything...a screwdriver, a straw etc etc. I've taken the lock out - simple job just undoing those screws in the door a touch while holding the door handle out. How much did the delaer charge you for the new lock? I've got £50 in mind. Any more than that and it starts to look like a joke really. Mines non central locking and the simplist of keys. If there was a guide to see the issues involved I'd really like to see it. Thanks guys.

Hi, Just to wrap this saga up. The battery replacement seems to had done the trip. My wife has used the car a few timesover the last week. The car has also stood for a day or so. Everything works fine. First time start etc. My wife comments that the car feels better than it ever did ;-) So, thanks to everyone for the input ;-) Simon

okey dokey - here's the update. got a new battery yesterday. took the old one back and the guys changed it. It's not a great brand, but its cost me nothing to try it. took it home, got it in (that containing nut is a rascal to get back on). Tightened it all up and...last turn of the spanner on the positive clamp and..sheered the damn nut ;-( Anyway by this time i was so p...ed off I just put it on as tight as I could with the other nut. Anyway, started first time and a few more times. You'd expect this anyway as it's a new/fully charged battery. So after a night of wondering, I tried it again this morning and bingo firing up like a good 'un. I bought a new connector lead (had to go on the negative side and switch the bolt from -'ve to the positive side) and managed to get it all back to gether, nice and tight. Started up 5 times, even with the lights on. I'm guessing, therefore, that the battery wasnt leaking through a dodgy earth (as it would have not started this morning). Fingers crossed that this is now sorted out. Big thank-you to all of the help I received. By the way my PAS light now just comes on for 1 second which is much better (seperate thread). As you can tell, I'm quite excited ;-) I expect to be posting the problem is back again in a few days, but just in dreamland at the moment. Thanks guys. Simon