TurboTurbot

Another update: My VNT seems to get clogged about every 4 months now and I think it is time for a more permanent solution, i.e. recondition or fit a new one. Any suggestions here? Is it the case that the treatment gradually gets overtaken by carbon deposit build-up? Would it be best to re-con or after-market (reputable ebay) replace? Thanks.

Did the treatment on Saturday and it worked a treat! This time used special hose clip pliers to remove air hosed for better access - they helped. Also using 4mm tubing from B&Q (2m of) - no faff or mess. Left the MM in for 3 hours (whilst periodically shuggling the actuator using a very long screwdriver (much easier than a thumb!). At 2 hours, put pipework back, so last hour was with engine ready to go. Car fired up quite normal, gave it a minute of idle, then up to 2k for a bit incase that would clean the muck out. Then off for a drive - all normal eccept now no chuffing or noises. Went into some hills giving it welly - up to 4k no problem at all: smooth and quiet. On a longer trip, everything was as it should be again. This treatment really works.

Update on that. I have been using James Logan Cars for several years now (Octy mkI TDI) and found them sincere, accommodating and fair. They are much more reasonable than the bigger Belfast based Skoda specialists. Their workshop is competent, but, as I said elsewhere on these forums, they seem weirdly reluctant to 'take the bull by the horns' and you might end up with a partial solution on occasion. They know VAG and Skoda in particular and I understand the workshop staff are more or less Skoda enthusiasts, owning Skodas themselves. James the boss seems a nice bloke and I can recommend them. Just make sure they understand you want it *really* fixed, not just enabled to limp along another few weeks.

Surprised nobody mentioned James Logan at Green Island (Skoda specialist). I use them rather than getting ripped off in Belfast. I have found them strangely reluctant to find a fault, but when they do, it is sorted at a reasonable price and their heart seems to be in the right place (James himself seems a nice bloke). The only criticism is that they have missed some important faults that cost me dear once I was out of range of their efforts. But when they have replaced a part, they did it properly, so I do go back and would recommend them, with the previso that you should tell them what is wrong and which bit you want replaced, otherwise you might get the car back with some 'workaround' that quickly turns into false economy (that has happened to me three times).

To Kissifer and anyone else with this querie - I have only the experience of one car, but would say that the blue smoke is nothing to do with it (and a common experience at this time of year with an older diesel). Other symptoms that accompany my VNT clogging problem include a characteristic sound when the turbo has been brought in and spins down - it makes an interrupted almost scraping sound like chi-chi-cha-cho-choo, rather than the smooth downgliding whistle sound it should. Also the actuator arm is really hard to move manually (see if you can find yours and push it down). When faced with a tough hill, especially when the engine is still cold, it sometimes 'chuff's - heitant and jerky power, making a chuffing noise that corresponds with the turbo seemng to spin, get stuck, try again and so on, opening and closing its actuator (?) - I'm not sure about that last bit. You will see there are other explanations for the sudden limp on loading (e.g. loss of vacume), but most people here have found the MM VNT cleanup to help. If you do it right, it seems no harm is done, but I must say describing it has raised a few eyebrows in the trade. I am having another go on Saturday.

Did this a year ago on my Mk1 TDI Octy - it worked, though not entirely convincingly (a bit like some here, when pushed really hard, it would still limp, but far less often than before). Actually in the run up to the MM treatment, the N75 wastegate valve had blown and I had a "professional clean" done at an auth. dealer - to no avail. After having 'fun' spraying foam over self, and friend whilst figuring out how to keep the flexible tube on the can nozzle (!) things went quite well. Actuator arm was pretty well jammed to start with, but got moving. Hose clips are tough to get on and off, by the way - need to be careful they don't fly! Wear Goggles (I managed to get some MM in my eye). OK, here we are a year on and limp mode is back whenever I call for some welly. I will be doing the treatment again and hoping it works. I noticed that at least one person got the soot cleared only after 6 treatments!

Thanks guy.Guarage says it will cost me > 800 to just walk away from the car. They suggested a new gasket without the shim for £1200 all in, but up to 2k for the proper job. I watched them feel along the cylender head and record a 3-4 thou dip on the side of one valve, all good elsewhere. They said it was fine without the skim shop work. How do we feel about this, apart from the £100 per hour labout cost...

Hi all, in another thread, I describe a developing coolant loss issue with my 2003 100k 1.9tdi . I've been told it needs a new head gasket and it will be a 'four figure sum' - no more precise than that. This is in Aberdeen where everything seems to be expensive, but what should I expect to pay for this? Any advice well received. Thanks.

Further update: news today is that the head gasket has gone (some would have guessed that). This became obvious when a little reving (just a few seconds) from cold (left overnight) produced a good amount of pressure in the cooling system. Major expense ahead, end of trip and flight back home.

Update: the leak was a cracked header tank. However, following replacement of that, the level would fall, giving the appearnce of a persistent leak. Closer inspection revelaed that it was in fact gas presure drving the level down, as it would 'bubble' back up on releasing pressure form the tank. This has been getting worse: you can see the fluid drain from the tank as the engine revs. Return of fluid (via pump) seems fine. I have booked into another VAG specialist to have a look at what is causing this, but if anyone has any ideas or experience, it would be good to hear. Thanks, Keith.

I had these symptoms a few years ago. But I used SuperScan VS450 VAG scanner (entry level kit) and it showed as something like "implausible value". So your problem might be the same, but with incompatible scanner, else it is not that simple. It seems most of these problems are the sensors, not the things they are meant to be sensing.

I wish it was Paul. However, I am familiar with the condensation dripping. This leak, as I said: (a) smells of antifreeze, ( looks pink when collected, © is perfectly correlated with a loss of coolant fluid. Ken - I did not know hot coolant went to the A/C. condenser : sounds ominous if true. I was thinking (perhaps hoping) it was a hose (or attachment) feeding the heater matrix. Other explanations I have seen all seem to appear on the left (passenger) side. Thanks, ... still interested in your thoughts.

Hi Folks, I have a 2003 TDI Octy which drips coolant (characteristic smell etc.) from around the driver's side (RHS) suspension arm (about 8 inches under drivers door). Flow is about 12 drips / minute but only when the heater / A/C system has been ON during a run of the car. Have topped up about 1 litre water per 200 miles. Dripping and loss completely stopped when I switched climate control (Elegance model) OFF (car has been working like that for a month). Yesterday I had it in at a Skoda specialist who pressure tested and replaced header (expansion) tank. I picked it up, drove home with the climate control switched back on and ... the drips are back just the same. No sign of loss header tank, no damp or smell in the cabin. I cannot get the car in the air, but can root around a bit. Any ideas?

Exactly the same happened to me (including that it was the left-most wire on the block) : see my comments on http://www.briskoda....tor-or-dfm-wire . It is with DM Motors of Belfast right now, where they say the wire is still heating up when the engine runs and claim this is a "mystery that could take a long time to solve". Did they think of replacing the wire??? They will not discuss it with me. They know I have delayed the Irish Sea ferry booking 'till Wednesday to give time to fix this - I guess they want to go right up to the deadline and then charge me £££££ for the job. Thing is, I cannot get my car back off them until they are satisfied it is drivable. Nightmare! If I don't get the car back tomorrow it's rather a lot of money down the drain (oh and I have an MOT booked on on Thursday - in Aberdeen).

UPDATE: dear oh dear! Not just batery, the junction box on top of it had burned due to the nut holding one of the wire crimps down comming loose and touching next-door (other polarity) wire. Further problems in wiring back to alternatator, which itself may be stuffed: they don't know yet. I am told it is lucky there wasn't a fire! Ferry cancelled. K.