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Thanks to varooom for the erWin info! I need to spend a some time checking that the site will work using Apple computers as I have had issues in the past with online payment companies not playing nicely with sites that assume that Windows PCs are in use. I will also probably have to disable my Ad Blockers and Ghostery apps before trying for an hour slot that could go horribly wrong otherwise! Also very indebted to @DeanVRS20VT for the great links restoring the old Skodas. As well as the Elegance car I am having the issues with, I also have a 2003 L&K diesel estate identical to the one in the link and have learnt a great deal studying the photos. After 2 months without any rain in East Anglia, I hope any newly appointed Minister for Drought doesn't persuade the heavens to open before I can start to investigate the wiring looms!

Thanks to nige8021 and DeanVRS20VT for concurring with my plan to start testing for continuity of all wires entering the Drivers door from the A pillar once the purchased tools needed to facilitate access arrive. Once the wires are exposed, I have all the soldering gear/ heat shrink sleeving/ wiring, etc to bypass any breaks. Could you point me to the URL of the website that gives access to the wiring diagrams and manuals for €7 /hour of viewing please?

Thanks for the suggestion, petrolbloke; I had not tried a quick double press of the key fob. Tried out both your ideas this morning without any luck. Also noticed another overlooked symptom. The open door icon in the centre dash display is not showing up. Further investigation will have to wait until later in the week when the plastic door trim removal tools and pair of insulation piercing probes arrive from eBay! In case the fault proves to be with the central convenience module, J393 on a schematic diagram I found online, could anyone with access to detailed Skoda manuals please confirm the part number of the unit that was fitted to the 2003 Octavia Mk1 Diesel Estate, Elegance spec 130bhp ASZ? A cursory look at eBay lists a range of numbers all described by the generic heading: This is but a few of the possible part numbers used: 1C0962258J 1J0959799Q 1K0959433AH 8P0959433C It would be useful to know without removing/reinstalling the unit just to read a number! Thanks!

I own an 2003 Octavia Mk1 Diesel Estate (Elegance spec 130 bhp ASZ) with Convenience Central Locking which I put on SORN during COVID lockdowns in early 2020. As far as aware, all the car systems were operational at this point prior to removal of the battery to keep on a trickle charger. Periodically every 3 months I have reconnected the battery, opened the doors and started the engine which has always been instantaneous with a completely smooth tickover. At my latest attempt, there was a problem with the central locking. I can only unlock the drivers door using the key and none of the other 3 passenger doors will unlock with either the key or the drivers door control panel. Tests & results I have tried are as follows: * The key fob or the drivers door panel WILL lock and unlock the rear tailgate * Neither key nor drivers door control will alter the down state of the 3 passenger door buttons which do not even twitch with the attempt. * The 3 passenger door inside release handles will, against some resistance, raise the respective door buttons but which immediately drop upon releasing the handles as they spring back. * The fuse situation is confusing. The Haynes manual states that the 5 Amp F6 is for the Central Locking control unit but there is NO fuse installed. A cursory inspection of the high current fuse box sitting on of the battery indicated that the 50A strip fuse in position 4 had blown but when replaced it did not blow again or alter any of the previous observations so it could pre-date the door problem. After a tour of Central Locking issues on the forum, a common issue seemed to be wire breaks in the loom between driver door and car body inside the concertina rubber boot. After making an inspection there were no obvious breaks in the insulation of the wires. Wiggling the wires however did prevent the tailgate opening/closing until a further wiggle restored operation so there is a high probability that the inner Cu cores may be suspect. I would like my next test to be continuity checks of the individual wires but I cannot find any info on where the wires terminate in the body of the car and/or how to access them. Has anybody seen this set of symptoms, please? Also, where does the driver door loom terminate in the car body & how do I gain access? Thanks for reading!

The car is working again but I want to share two links to YouTube videos that I found helpful since the AirCon Relay Control Module seems to have more than one failure mechanism! I didn't find other failures relating to excess quiescent current drain that I was experiencing, which I now believe was probably a stuck relay within the module itself, but there were several failures relating to the fans and overheating! The first stage of the repair was to remove the battery so that I could extract the two 10mm relay module holding bolts and twist it over to get the appropriate part number. The part number of my Relay module was 1J0 919 506 K and I managed to source a used one from eBay. There were a number of after market new ones available but I wanted to use a genuine VW component as a few postings reported issues with Chinese copies. At this stage I decided that, since the two connectors were facing downwards and not easily accessible, to remove the battery shelf which is held in place with 4 highly visible 10mm bolts plus a 5th hidden one between the shelf and the air filter box. The connectors are hermetically sealed against moisture and are not easily removed but a YouTube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=WSuR0RGUsr8 posted in America was very helpful in showing how to release the connectors. Once the connectors were removed, a further ammeter check, made with the battery temporarily connected with croc clip leads, confirmed that the current drain did indeed drop to ~8mA. The new module was fitted and another current check indicated the current stayed at 8mA before replacing the shelf and battery itself. I would add that, since more failures of this module occur from heating/cooling/fan issues, another American YouTube video posted in the comments of the earlier one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Gx9TwohCXg is worth a watch. It is a long clip and the explains more issues than just the Relay Module which features towards the middle. Both videos illustrate that this particular module was widely fitted across a whole range of VW 1999 to 2005 group vehicles and seems to have a variety of failure mechanisms! I hope this post my prove useful for others who are experiencing any of the range of issues that are associated with a failure of this module and would thank all those whose previous postings and comments that I have drawn upon to get my car working.

Thanks for the info! A VW forum indicated that these control modules are normally mounted low down on the LHS of radiator fan matrix which gave me a starting point. A search on eBay gave me an image of the module part # 1J0919506 with a variable single letter postfix that would seem to vary according to whether it was for full Climatronic or simple AC. For the benefit of others, my inspection revealed the module was mounted face down on the RHS beneath the battery support shelf on my car. Until I can remove the battery, release the two holding bolts & twist the unit over I cannot see the relevant part number in full which is a job for tomorrow! I am hoping that if I release the 14 pin connector, with Fuse #16 in place, the current drain will drop to 8mA which would indicate the fault to be in the module itself & not the panel which is not displaying anything with the ignition off. Here's hoping! Thanks again as I would like to keep the car going as it has only done 66000 miles in nearly 20 years of faithful use with the original refrigerant in the Air Con!

My Mk1 Octavia L&K TDI 2003 had a completely flat battery last week after displaying no starting issues the previous day. This occurred again the next day after a full battery recharge. I started to diagnose the problem by checking the alternator output which was fine at 14+ volts. I then clipped an ammeter between the battery +ve terminal and the terminal connector and measured a variable quiescent current between 0.5 and 1.5A. The next step was to pull the fuses one at a time and note the current. This was tedious as it required the drivers door to be opened each time to access the panel which triggered the interior light and door light delay so I pulled fuse F14 and unclipped the red courtesy light in the base of the drivers door to get a steady current reading for each test. The gave a steady continuous current drain around 0.5A with the car static. To cut a long story short, it was only when I pulled 10A, Fuse 16 (Haynes reference manual) that the current drain dropped back to around the 8mA expected leakage through the alternator diodes. F16 was labelled Air Con , Electric Water Pump. I suspected a stuck relay but Haynes contained no relay info. However, having found a culprit, I hit a brick wall. I can find no online info on any relay that might be behind this fuse, its part number/type or its location or where this electric water pump is located. The only posting in the forum that came close was made in 2013 by UglyBug, "Relay For Aux Coolant Pump" but that was for a Mk2 Octavia. Member comments in that posting talked of a CCC (Continuous Coolant Circulation) relay located in an eBox next to the main high current fuses near the battery itself. My car has no eBox that contains relays, only a shallow box containing 4 high current strip fuses + 3 normal fuses. Can any member please tell me where this relay is located, what type it is or where the electric water pump might be on my ASZ engine type in a Mk1 car? The relevant wiring diagrams for the Climatronic Unit would also be a bonus Thanks in advance!